BOSS LEVEL CUSTOM SPOT WELDER

Seems like I have run into the same issue as Hemo.

I will need to take apart the spot welder and check my Arduino board ... if it is indeed the same problem, I may end up replacing the board myself and getting the files from Aulakiria.

I'll be back if it is another problem ...
 
Just got my spot welder today only took 5 days to ship including weekends. I havent seen anyone running this off a 12v car battery so thats the first thing I setup, using 2 8awg 4ft long cables. And you guessed it worked like a charm with a dead 18650 and the supplied strips that came with the welder.0320191535~2.jpg
 
I pulled the strip up to check penetration thats why it looks like it does but all 4 spots came out perfect. Best purchase ever :thumb: :bigthumb:
0320191541~2.jpg
 
:bigthumb:
Great post invisionelite. There's very few data reported about car batteries. Fails mostly. Your feedback is much appreciated.
 
Thanks, I have a 20s7p 18650 pack in the works Which I will he welding inabout a week or 2 so I'll provide updates on how that goes
 
rojitor said:
:bigthumb:
Great post invisionelite. There's very few data reported about car batteries. Fails mostly. Your feedback is much appreciated.

I've tested two car batteries at my disposal : a 44Ah/440A and a 54Ah/520A. Both fully charged, both 100% working in a car, both failed. With the bigger one however, I had weld marks (none with the smaller one), which leads me to believe it's a question of power : input for the welder / output for the battery.

Invisionelite used a 100Ah which I guess outputs someting around 800A max, sensibly more power. That seems to confirm my experience above. I'l try with a 70Ah/720A to see if it's improving anything.

NB : I'm not using the Boss welder but its baby brother the MiniSpotA. Hopefully this does not make a big difference.
 
rojitor said:
I did a flat pack for electric skateboard. 10s3p samsung 30q waterproof 60amps shared port bms
a.jpg

b.jpg

c.jpg

[youtube]dKD0CIumcZw[/youtube]

Wait, I tried this BMS and couldnt get it to work. I see you soldered the blue and black P- and B- together on the main -, along with the black balance wire. Doesnt that short across the BMS? Is that how it should be wired? So confused.

In the diagram it shows the negative going through the BMS, but its different than it was actually wired. ???
 
Pros: you remove the amps limit of the bms. The limit is the limit of the cells. With this technique you can make a 150a battery using a cheap and tiny 15a bms. The charge and balance work exactly the same.

Cons: you lose lvc protection. You can kill the pack the very first day you use It if you do not solve that problem. This method is highly not recommended with non programmable controllers. In the electric skateboards world that's not an issue. Vesc controllers can be configured vía pc so you can set lvc. The room inside the esk8 enclosures is very limited so a tiny bms is definitely a good idea and the risks are gone just by setting properly the vesc.

The bypass is basically to ignore the p- port. In that pack as you can see the bms does not have a port but a wire so i soldered It too in order to keep the bms well attached to the battery. Just insulating It is the same.

For ebikes bypass is not so common. You probably have room enough for a big bms in your battery box and not all controllers can be programmed so it's not a good idea for many cases.
 
Aeron said:
I've tested two car batteries at my disposal : a 44Ah/440A and a 54Ah/520A. Both fully charged, both 100% working in a car, both failed.

I've just tested a 100Ah/680A battery. Better that the others with 0,1mm nickel @ 4ms, but not enough. Did nothing with 0.2mm.
I'll go buy a lipo pack :cry:
 
I've bought a 75C 5Ah Turnigy Graphene. I hope it'll be enough (my two 25C in series [edit : in parallel, not series] weren't).
[edit : it is enough, this pack works great]

Regarding the lead batteries, I don't think a 100Ah/680A rated battery can ouptut 680A continuously, it must be a burst rating.
But lipo may have a lot less voltage sag, which could explain why I got no good result even with high current ratings.
 
What do you guys think of a 6S or 5S LTO pack (7Ah) for welding? They can dump 30C for 5S with no issues. Could probably provide 200 A for a short burst.
 
Do you mean the lipo to power the welder?
I have tested up to 6s. Above 4s It is dangerous. You can damage the fets.
 
rojitor said:
Do you mean the lipo to power the welder?
I have tested up to 6s. Above 4s It is dangerous. You can damage the fets.

LTO is 2.8 V to 1.8 V

5S being 14 V to 9 V
6S being 16.8 V to 10.8 V

I can easily have both charged up to about 14V. I just want to be sure they can give enough current.

Do we know how much wattage this thing pulls?
 
My spot welder came in a few weeks ago, only get to test the soldering iron just. I am loving it! Heats up on the fly, stay hot with the usual abuse. With a 24V 3A brick.
As is it, even without testing the spot welding I am thinking to box this little gem up for field soldering works. It will break my heart if it gets fry from a spray of saliva...
Has anyone took the effort to box it? Would love to learn how you do it. I am totally clueless how to go about it.



 
KenC said:
Has anyone took the effort to box it? Would love to learn how you do it. I am totally clueless how to go about it.

Just make an adaptor for a 3s lipo brick and you are ready to solder off the grid. I did some field jobs with it. I did over 30" with 5000mah
[youtube]73xb6SiqcRs [/youtube]
 
rojitor said:
KenC said:
Has anyone took the effort to box it? Would love to learn how you do it. I am totally clueless how to go about it.

Just make an adaptor for a 3s lipo brick and you are ready to solder off the grid. I did some field jobs with it. I did over 30" with 5000mah
[youtube]73xb6SiqcRs [/youtube]
I reckon a boost buck converter can double as the 3s lipo pack charger and solder iron power. Very cheap to begin with.

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Hows the minA compare to the boss? I just ordered it. I had the boss and blew up some copper and then sold it but the miniA seems the next step up in ease but is it as robust?
 
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