building a 24s/11p 88.8V/59Ah lipo battery without welding

[c_a]

now when the season is nearly over I am starting the assembly of my new battery to power my 95kg, 110mph electric racing bike:

first you need 300 lipo cells from batterist, 5.35ah each cell, unpack the packages and sort them by capacity:

hundrets of rivets and some connecting plates:

more tomorrow

 

[Doctorbass]

Het.. it's a scale speed right??

seriously.. you hope to go as fast as 110mph with this little bug!

Doc

 

[grindz145]

I'm pretty sure that little guy can't weight 95kg doc :wink: At least I hope not...

 

[c_a]

it is for the big brother, the small one has a 48cell 0.9kwh package and weigths 21kg, topspeed 60mph

 

[Doctorbass]

it is for the big brother, the small one has a 48cell 0.9kwh package and weigths 21kg, topspeed 60mph

Please post a video of that as soon as you can!!

 

[c_a]

here we go...

find the cells from the list and doublecheck the cell voltage, clean the connector plates with brake cleaner, start the assembling:

good luck!

11 of 264 are done

 

[c_a]

be careful with this package, these are 11 5.35ah cells in parallel, this package gives you a constant current of ~1200Amps and a burst current of ~2000Amps, I hope everything goes well, I will never ever see this current, rated current for riding is 400amps

Will connect both 11p packages in serial tomorrow...

 

[Ratking]

Nice battery.
Just worked with soldering batteries myself, and its pretty scary to work with when you know how much energy they have.
Good luck, will be following this one

 

[PowerStranger]

Question..where did you get those cells?

 

[liveforphysics]

Cool setup. looks like the pack will be a beast!

 

[PaulD]

Nice job! I think it would be good to have an insulator between the busbar and the tops of the cells. Although the pouch shouldn't be connected to anything electrically I like to keep it away from other potentials... usually at the cut edge on the top (and with these cells, the bottom too) has exposed aluminum pouch.
But, I like the rivets... should stay nice and tight for good contact i think.

 

[flathill]

Nice Busbar design! You might want to anodize the battery side of the Busbar. Nice looking cells too with tabs on opposite ends for no hot spots!

 

[c_a]

not easy, but it looks like it is working

 

[texaspyro]

Cool setup. looks like the pack will be a beast!

Needs the RED to BLACK test...

 

[texaspyro]

I'd feel better if the spacing of the clamping bolts was halved... say every two cells. Far less chance of a catastrophe if a bolt works loose. But then, I'm a bolts and suspenders sort 'o guy.

 

[Andje]

Needs the RED to BLACK test..

do it with some inch long leads of un-insulated turnigy silicon 8 awg and you get a pretty spectacular explosion that probably won't kill your batts. film it though.
And can you tell us what kind of batteries these are? or a link to where you bought em?

 

[shawn_1976]

Looks great!

 

[c_a]

At next wednesday the first half is ready, I have not enough time.

Cells are from Batterist, ex Polyquest.

Red and Black together = 2000Amps 8)

 

[Arlo1]

A quick google search and I cant seem to find where to buy them.

 

[bigmoose]

I like your approach! Good design! Like said above, I would add 2x the rivets, and I would add an antioxidant compound to the tabs and the aluminum before the cover plates were riveted on. AntiOx to both sides of the tabs, and to all aluminum that is in contact with tabs or other aluminum.

 

[Hillhater]

, and I would add an antioxidant compound to the tabs and the aluminum before the cover plates were riveted on. .....

BM, .. I understand , and agree on the antiox for the alloy, but would that paste have any detrimental effect on the conductivity of a compression joint ?

 

[bigmoose]

BM, .. I understand , and agree on the antiox for the alloy, but would that paste have any detrimental effect on the conductivity of a compression joint ?

Good question, and the only way to know for sure what is going on is to thermal image the plates under load, with and without AntiOx, both as built and after a few months in a humid environment. If this battery is exposed to any kind of condensing humidity I would use AntiOx or silverplate everything. I would wire brush the aluminum parts and immediately coat with a zinc bearing AntiOx, something with a synthetic base. There are a lot on the market.

 

[c_a]

Two months ago I disasseblemed the packas that I built last year in may.

No problems with oxidation. Tabs looked like new.

This system is ok for 50-60Amps per cell.

 

[fechter]

They stopped using aluminum for house wiring years ago for some reason. I think the anti-oxidation compound might be a good idea. If you have enough clamping force on the tabs, it tends to keep oxidizing stuff out, but in harsh environments you could start getting some resistance over time. Nice approach though.

What is the tab material? Can it be soldered?

 

[texaspyro]

Aluminum wiring was not the real problem... it was interfacing it to copper that was the bugger...