Bulk charging with constant current

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Apr 25, 2014
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I just ordered this:
http://www.batterysupports.com/432v-44v-504v-4a-lithium-ion-lipo-battery-charger-12s-12x-36v-p-167.html

And THEN read on this site that ideally I want a variable current and variable voltage charger. This charger I'm getting is constant 4amp current and my cells are like 80c and 4.5mah. Will I be killing my batteries!?
 
I am not sure but I think 4.5mah is 4500mah?
So if the battery is rated for a 1c max charge rate them it would be 4.5amps, if it was rated for max of 2c then it would be 9amp max.
I think if 4.5mah is 4500mah then you are safe.

On a side note those charger look very interesting. Currently I am using 2 electrifly triton charger to to charge my 22 s pack. I have them broken down so 1 triton charge 2 parallel pack of 6s and the other triton charge 2 parallel 5s. I have cell logger and battery medic to even out the balancing. Would love to get a bulk charger sometime in the future.

Simon
 
On the c-rating to amp ratio I'm fine, it's the constant current that concerns me: I read on the wiki here that I should use a variable current and variable voltage. I wonder if it's a problem. If ur looking for a bulk charger there is another one I read about and ifyou search "bulk Lipo charging" you'll find it and it's about the same price but has the variable current and voltage.
 
Just buy a Mean Well, they are top quality and you can get one 48V unit, with variable amps 7-12A depending on the model. Voltage is 40-52V.
You can not balance charge, but you can bulk charge. Only way to balance charge is to buy a decent Battery Management System.
I am currently broke, but I found a place that does free shipping, on orders over $100, and I need about 72V so I'd buy a 48V and a 24V MW.
One key note here, is you must find one with CC, its listed in the spec sheet at the top of the page. From there you mix and match your voltage, buying the same model, NES, HRG etc. No one has specifically said you need one with CC/CV, so I assume CC is the same as CC and CV together hence CC/CV. I read any power supply is CV. The only ones I've seen are the LED power supplies, you dont see too many people charging batteries with those even though they are rated for outdoor use. I think spending $50+$30s/h on a charger from asia is hit and miss, especialy BMSBattery. You spend too much on the s/h price. Remember that is probably USD, so add 25% thats CDN Dollar.

On a side note, at Micheals department store today, they had 2 ebikes, both 36V and 15Ah or 20Ah, some names I never heard of. For me Micheals is only good for headphones. T's and shoes, hoodies and jackets very rare 3XL sizes.
 
lol.. you're fine.

it will hold a CONSTANT CURRENT of 4amps until the batteries are so full that it needs less than that.. then it will slowly go lower and lower.
same with the voltage.. if its limiting to the 4 amp max, the voltage drops.. once the voltage comes up to peak, the current will drop.
 
Looks fine to me. Look inside, right by the DC output wire on the board, for a voltage adjustment pot. Should be there. Then you can dial it in for 4.1v per cell, 4.15v, whatever you prefer.
 
Ordered the meanwell. Seems i hadn't ordered that other one actually. Surprised myself with my poor memory. I do plan to use my icharger as well sometimes but want to see how balanced I can keep the cells with the bulk charger and the battery medic from hobbyking. Any advice on how I can simply and slowly discharge a pack if the medic shows its higher than the others? I saw someone was connecting to an old toaster. San Francisco streets are littered with appliances and electronics. I'm getting a multimeter in the mail as well - is there a resistance of a discharge device that I'd want or something? I guess a toaster would be adjustable.
 
You don’t adjust anything. In fact, bypass all of the thermostat shit and connect power leads directly to the heater element.
Oven.JPG
120VAC 1200-1500W heater element will draw around 400W @ 60VDC or about 6A. That’s decent enough load to burn off charge and get an IR measurement. You can add more heater elements too (clothes iron, space heater) for more VDC Wattage.

In my situation for 60VDC battery pack expect about 1/4-1/3 wattage draw as the VAC rating.

For example 120VAC 100W incandescent lightbulb would be lucky to draw 25W from a 60VDC pack. Need stuff in the +1000W VAC range to be useful IMO.
 
Thanks. Going to get his instead I think:

http://www.myrcmart.com/rcx-3in1-battery-balancer-discharger-voltage-indicator-150w-discharging-p-4767.html
 
I bought one of those, an iMax b8+ 150W 7A and it took FOREVER to charge my LiPo's. I was using a 20Ah 72V LiPo setup.
Going back I would never have bought that, and I was warned several times but me being a newbie and trying to save money bought it anyway.
I should have bought a $150 unit, 10 or 20A RC charger, with one of those 60A Dell PSU's. Then I could also do a balance charge too.
Do yourself a favor, skip that 150W unit, spend more money and buy $100-$150 worth of charger, all you need is 10A at whatever voltage you are using.
Even though mine says 7A, at my voltage 72V I was only getting 2A. So maybe your expirience might be different at lower voltages, say 48V thats what, 3A, thats still too low. Get a unit of 300W or more.
 
My batteries are only 50 volt and 4.5ah and while they have a crazy high c rating and could be chargered much faster I already bought it and I don't want to spend too much. Time is valuable but maybe I'll take up reading again while I wait and smarten myself up.
I read it only does 4amp charging but maybe I could mod it!?

I do have an icharger too and will compare speeds once I get going.
 
Ykick said:
You don’t adjust anything. In fact, bypass all of the thermostat shit and connect power leads directly to the heater element.

120VAC 1200-1500W heater element will draw around 400W @ 60VDC or about 6A. That’s decent enough load to burn off charge and get an IR measurement.from the battery? You can add more heater elements too (clothes iron, space heater) for more VDC Wattage. what's the difference if u wire those elements parallel or in series

In my situation for 60VDC battery pack expect about 1/4-1/3 wattage draw as the VAC rating.

For example 120VAC 100W incandescent lightbulb would be lucky to draw 25W from a 60VDC pack. Need stuff in the +1000W VAC range to be useful IMO.

I'm back to this thread after "popping" my hobbyking 350 watt power supply. The batteries could do 20 amps, and the charger, didn't think about the power supply. After 3 minutes my unease at trying such high amperage snapped. I feel I can blow stuff up left and right as long as I'm here to make sure the building doesn't go up and my nerves can take it.

I'll be getting the bulk charger going as soon as I read this thread again. Remembering not sure on the ground wire's importance or danger.

I was doing the two 6s packs seperately using the nicad on the charger and using the balancer on the side. I was doing ten amps fine but the nanotech aspec batteries say 8c so that was the lure into the problem for me.

Luckily I just got a multimeter as how else to know your voltage whe setting up,the bulk charger?

But the batteries I was charger with the Icharger before : I find a drop of roughly .05 quickly after disconnecting the cells from the charger. As soon as a cell hit 4.21 I'd cut it and find the cell at 4.15 and call it done. I'm surprised at how out of whack they can get when discharged : one pack at 3.51,3.53,3.54 and another at 3.57,3.58,3.58. I set up a low voltage alarm on my watt meter, which I've never heard,and the esc, but I'll see the 12s at 43.30 (43.00 is 3.6 a cell) and I'll do another hill and then a huge drop in power and the watt meter is showing the pack as low as 32. I have almost now power and don't know if the esc is shutting down (two tiers on vesc I think and I had them at 43 and 42 is off). The cells will bounce back to as you see above by the next morning, but if I simply leave the watt meter on them they will continue to discharge and I don't know if and when they would come back.

I've got the sp-320-48, it says, on the front, the only place it says anything, more so alludes, ..it can do 6.7 A at 48v. I'll be looking but at this point I'll be only charging at that rate.
 
My batteries still deviate by ..4.2 to 4.1.
If the charger is connected to the batteries, and the voltage is stationary at 49 according to my watt meter, will it slowly balance the cells as they're all connected and will balance each other? So it's seeming with my cell checker over 5 minutes
 
Please tell me if my Meanwell sp-320 48 is broken. I can't get any current. I can see on my watt meter that I can adjust the voltage. Before sometimes it would stop charging and I'd have to lower the voltage. Mid charge. Sometimes not. Today I had it siting at 50.10 for maybe two hours as I slowly discharged different packs through the 10$ thing above. Rode around with it in my backpack for an hour and now this. It did have a time before where I couldn't get it to charge and resort to incessant plugging and unplugging. And that worked before, and now I plug and unplug more thinking it's going to work again. I always have the green light on. I've twisted the screw maybe 10 times every time I use it to see what happens. The screw should take it right? What happened? I'm calling them tomorrow and ask them. Ask them what's wrong with instruction manuals. They probably won't be there and don't have an answering machine

The wattmeter in line between the charger and pack shows 47 and adjustable with he screw but my multimeter shows nothing .
Solved- the soldering connection on the power supply's plug broke.
 
Is there a reason I couldn't use this to slowly charge my 12s pack in series to 4 volts?

:

http://www.tritondatacomonline.com/products/polycom-48v-power-supply-2200-17670-001?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=googlepla&variant=287266288&gclid=Cj0KEQiArJe1BRDe_uz1uu-QjvYBEiQACUj6ohON74iV7S2lUNtFLFCjSqKXtm69wSgUzPkWC8vGUOMaAuZJ8P8HAQ
 
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