By far the cheapest LiPo. 3WH/$1. Turnigy 4s 5000mah at $24

K

koo

1 µW
Joined
Nov 13, 2013
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Just yesterday my father finally decided to pull a trigger on ordering components for his ebike. I have been active in the RC world for past 2 years and since I'm a student, I'm always looking for great deals. Something that caught my attention over a year ago was how some lipos for hobbyking didn't fit the usual price point. The prices usually go up when you add capacity or number of cells but their 4s 5000mah 20c (which are actually +25c*) was cheaper than any 3s 5000mah. Oh, and it also weights in at about 0.5kg. My father will run these as 8s 10000mah or 15000mah.

I've used one in my skywalker 168 FPV plane and I've been able to get over 45mins of flight times. After the packs arrive and we hook them up for ebike, I'll update this thread. My father also managed to get a 1:50 gear box from his work which was too noisy for them, so I'm planning on creating a 1500w bike for the 3 mile commute I have to campus. Will use two of these in series to make a 8s LiPo.


Because this LiPo has such a good value, they have been out of stock for a long time until now.

USA warehouse (shipping was $18 for 6 lipos when I bought them yesterday)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=18631&aff=421628

International warehouse (shipping will be about $8 per pack no matter how many you order)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=15521&aff=421628

EU warehouse (packs cost $28 each, cheaper shipping than international warehouse)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=36032&aff=421628

Notes:
-A small confession on my part. If you decide to buy these LiPos from the link I've provided, I will get about $2 for each order thats placed. If this is offensive to some members, I can remove the links.
-*When another RCGroups member did some testing on 6 of these packs, he found out that all of them were +25C and 2 of them were between 35C and 40C.
 
It's a long known thing that the 4S hardcase packs are the most economical way of purchasing HK Lipo based on Wh/$
 
I didn't see any other threads telling people about them and its only good value if they are in stock.
 
Ya this is kinda old news, that price is higher than it used to be. For a little while people where clearing out HK's stock and reselling them on Ebay at 5x the price.
 
Any concerns about the unsupported tab weldingin the hardcase lipos? Seems like it would increase the failure rate in EV use. Links/threads are easy to find if you haven't head about it already.
 
RedLine19K said:
Any concerns about the unsupported tab weldingin the hardcase lipos? Seems like it would increase the failure rate in EV use. Links/threads are easy to find if you haven't head about it already.
Click to expand...
Vibration and shock will be orders of magnitude less in ebike applications, keep an eye on rc forums but unless theres reported tab failures there i wouldnt worry.
Can always add hot glue at the wire exits to reduce movement if your really worried.
 
koo said:
I didn't see any other threads telling people about them and its only good value if they are in stock.
Click to expand...

You won't find any single thread or post about them because it was posted organically in comparisons. But if you do end up reading enough of the board, you will see that it is common knowledge in the HK LiPo users' camp. It's nice that you were able to draw this conclusion on your own and were willing to share it on your first post. So I commend you for that :D
 
I thought the 5s 5ah 20c Turnigys were the best value, but I guess not. Thanks for the heads up, I might just have to buy a few of these.
 
It's news that they are in stock. Thanks.

I don't find it offensive to get you some money for spreading good news. If it was some kind of rip off price deal it would be received differently.
 
convention is that hardpacks are a bit trickier due to not seeing the swelling in a bad pack. this can be dangerous. also john had one that self ignited on a shelf. i prefer the turnigy 20c 5s
 
hydro-one - if the pack swells enough you can definitely see :lol: i know because i have a hardcase that is pretty hard to not notice the swelling. haven't opened it up yet (or had the courage to safely :lol: ) im guessing that the top and bottom cells are both dead/swollen. probably not even worth trying to salvage the other 2...especially at only $25 a pop for the pack. overall ive had pretty good success with the hardcases...especially for the price they are definitely worth it. the only drawback is that they are slightly larger for the power/capacity than a 6s pack which happens to be pretty similarly sized.
 
the hardcase is easy to open. i cut a kerf along the joint and around the top with my table saw just deep enuff to remove most of the plastic, and peeled the case off.
 

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this was the 5200mAh pack and it had two of the 2600mAh pouches inside for each of the 5200mAh cells.

i still think he should open his hardcase and see which ones are bad and reuse the rest of them. he could rebuild it as a regular pack without the hardcases and even add a BMS to allow him to use it like a regular battery. like this.
 

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very good and clean work dnmun! i was just slightly concerned about puncturing a cell while trying to open the case...but that wouldnt necessarily start a fire even if i did. if i tried charging it again - then there might be a problem :lol: if it really is that easy to open ill have to fix a few hardcases when i have some free time. not much of a rush though...still waiting on getting my bike back on its feet. its been too long since ive ridden an ebike! i had close to 10,000 miles in about a year and a half and now its been like 6 months without riding one. i swear im still in withdrawal :lol:
 
i used the table saw so i could keep the kerf i cut from going all the way through the plastic. there is a lot of space at the very top of the case so you can cut there first, right under the top surface, but they used double stick tape on some of mine so i had to peel the sides out and if they are swollen you will need to split along the seam down the side.
 
Notes:
-A small confession on my part. If you decide to buy these LiPos from the link I've provided, I will get about $2 for each order thats placed. If this is offensive to some members, I can remove the links.
-*When another RCGroups member did some testing on 6 of these packs, he found out that all of them were +25C and 2 of them were between 35C and 40C
Click to expand...
Don't you need a code so you get the credit?
If it's just that item, you would get credit on all purchases. Look in your order online and it should give a code.
Not sure.

Dan
 
I ordered 14 of these packs from the USA warehouse about a month ago. 13 out of the 14 were in good shape (haven't really had them long enough to determine much).

1 of the packs did have a failure. The tab on one of the end cells with the positive discharge wire on it was cracked right next to the pouch end. I was unable to repair it, so I guess I'll just use the remaining 3 cells as replacement cells in the future. I purchased two extras just incase something like this happened. As far as I'm concerned, its still a heck of a deal.
 
you should be able to unsolder the tabs without having to cut them so close to the pouch. not sure how this happened. i only cut a tab when i know the pouch is toast. i treat them just as i learned on the ping pouches but the HK packs use a no lead solder (i think) that has a higher melting point.
 
you mean where the aluminum electrode comes out of the positive terminal i assume. there should be a short section of nickel tab that is attached to the end of the aluminum electrode by that serrated crimping. that short piece of nickel tab should be what is soldered to the copper tab of the next cell. but you are saying there is not a nickel tab on the end of the aluminum tab that comes from the pouch?
 
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