Exaclty. My other lipo 4ah cells have copper tabs with the serrated crimping/welded to another tab, right side of the picture. These cells have only one, which is solderable, coming directly out of the foil. I didn't take pictures before I cut them but the picture shows what it looked like after I cut it. I just finished the pack, it is a mess but will work. It is a shame I can only throw these two good as new cells away.
By far the cheapest LiPo. 3WH/$1. Turnigy 4s 5000mah at $24
- Thread starter koo
- Start date
John in CR
100 TW
silviasol said:
You mean don't buy if you're wanting to break the pack apart into individual cells, right? Otherwise what's wrong with welded?
Nothing at all wrong with the welding. Just "some" tabs are welded so close to the cell it leaves only a few mm's of tab left, after you cut them there is no way to solder them together. Of course if you are making a 5ah/1P pack then you would have no problems. I have a new plan to cut any problem tabs in a way to leave half tabs to solder. I will only be draining them at 2-3c max so figure that won't be a problem.
dnmun
1 PW
there is always the nickel tab on the end of the aluminum that comes outa the pouch as the positive electrode. you can always solder or spot weld to it. that nickel tab has to be crimped with the serrated roller since it cannot be welded to the aluminum.
John in CR
100 TW
silviasol said:
It's unnecessary and IMHO a mistake to cut the tabs. Cutting and soldering on these cells is just begging for problems. You risk damage just pulling them apart from each other due to the adhesive between cells. With no cutting you can still parallel at the cell level quite easily and safely by soldering paralleling wires. There's no reason to give up the existing solid series connection, and I'd submit that the multiple 1p series connections are better.
John
FeralDog
100 W
Not to diverge from the recent pattern of pack disassembly discussions, but can anyone recommend a charger for these packs?
{ I was musing getting a nominal 44.4Volts from 6 packs but wondered about this Balance Charger ---> http://www.hobbypartz.com/75p-1220-charger.html?gclid=CNa3z9_N57ICFayPPAod10MAPw, or getting one shipped from Hobbyking with these packs :? .}
Any recommendations from the HK line-up of balance chargers for these packs (moderate to cheap pricing preferred)?
{ I was musing getting a nominal 44.4Volts from 6 packs but wondered about this Balance Charger ---> http://www.hobbypartz.com/75p-1220-charger.html?gclid=CNa3z9_N57ICFayPPAod10MAPw, or getting one shipped from Hobbyking with these packs :? .}
Any recommendations from the HK line-up of balance chargers for these packs (moderate to cheap pricing preferred)?
John in CR said:
Adhesive between the cells? They were only taped together. If you are going to do more then 1p you will need to cut them. For safety I use a pcb/bms board so there is no way to do multiple 1p packs without using multiple boards which I have no room for and would be costly. It is safer to have them with with a pcb/bms then not knowing if one cell is acting up and becoming a potential fire right? When I get the packs next week I am going to make a post in the homemade battery packs of how I disassemble them.
FeralDog said:
If you are using 2s packs why not just get two 6s packs? You can charge the packs much quicker that way. That charger requires a power supply, you can find a cheaper 6s charger that doesn't need a power supply. I have a 6amp charger and it is more then enough for my 7s 24ah pack.
I received my 6 packs couple weeks back. Haven't tested them under the load but all were perfectly balanced at 3.8V/cell so I don't think we had any duds. While searching for affordable 4s LiPo for a TBS discovery quadcopter of mine, I found 4s 3000mah 20c http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=18637&aff=421628 packs that cost $0.35 per WH vs $0.32 of the 4s 5000mah packs. I'm sure taking these apart is going to be a lot easier...
koo said:
You haven't opened them had you? I actually talked with hobby king about lowering the price on their single cells from around $45 for 4 to the $25. They gave me a standard big company reply which was no help however noticed they just lowered the price to $8.45 each. That was cheap enough for me so I ordered another 30 to finish my 40ah pack
latecurtis
100 MW
My ezip trails bike has a lead ass 24 volt battery that's seen better days.
It is rated at 24 volts and 10 ah I think its overrated. It never went much than 4 or 5 miles without a dramatic decrease in power.
I am looking for about 30 ah. I cant afford a big ping battery. Hobby king has lipo batteries that are rated in mah and the biggest
is 8000 which = 8ah. and over $70. the best bang for the buck is
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... ouse_.html
PRICE$25.47
2 of these in series will be 29.6 volts 5ah running thru a 24 volt controller and motor. Will it be too much voltage.
My Idea is to buy 8 of these and make 4 external battery packs. I will keep the leadass batt I got until it dies completely.When it gets low I will hook the external pack to the electrodes on the other side of the bike where the second leadass battery pack would go if I had one, then flick the switch on the back of the controller to battery 2. With 4 of these packs I should get about 20 miles.
I need an external cable which plugs directly into the two electrodes the original leadass batt pack sets on.
Somebody please tell me what part number and company for a cable of this sort. Im thinking about ordering 8 of the batteries I listed above. I should be good for 20 miles total. Is that accurate or not? Im new to this but do realize that 8 of these batteries probley weigh less than the 10ah leadass battery that the bike came with.
My only other issue is waterproofing the batteries, cable and the electrodes the external batt cable plugs into. waterproof batt cases would be good. I will need a part number and company name. Would silicone work over the electrodes.
Since we both are going to use the same battery please let me know how you made out. I would love a 1500 watt bike. I was thinking about a front wheel kit. maybe 1000 watt. but 1500 watts sounds better. any feedback will be appreciated . I am still new to e biking. I would love to go 40+ mph but will settle for 12 mph and a 20 mile range for now.
It is rated at 24 volts and 10 ah I think its overrated. It never went much than 4 or 5 miles without a dramatic decrease in power.
I am looking for about 30 ah. I cant afford a big ping battery. Hobby king has lipo batteries that are rated in mah and the biggest
is 8000 which = 8ah. and over $70. the best bang for the buck is
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... ouse_.html
PRICE$25.47
2 of these in series will be 29.6 volts 5ah running thru a 24 volt controller and motor. Will it be too much voltage.
My Idea is to buy 8 of these and make 4 external battery packs. I will keep the leadass batt I got until it dies completely.When it gets low I will hook the external pack to the electrodes on the other side of the bike where the second leadass battery pack would go if I had one, then flick the switch on the back of the controller to battery 2. With 4 of these packs I should get about 20 miles.
I need an external cable which plugs directly into the two electrodes the original leadass batt pack sets on.
Somebody please tell me what part number and company for a cable of this sort. Im thinking about ordering 8 of the batteries I listed above. I should be good for 20 miles total. Is that accurate or not? Im new to this but do realize that 8 of these batteries probley weigh less than the 10ah leadass battery that the bike came with.
My only other issue is waterproofing the batteries, cable and the electrodes the external batt cable plugs into. waterproof batt cases would be good. I will need a part number and company name. Would silicone work over the electrodes.
Since we both are going to use the same battery please let me know how you made out. I would love a 1500 watt bike. I was thinking about a front wheel kit. maybe 1000 watt. but 1500 watts sounds better. any feedback will be appreciated . I am still new to e biking. I would love to go 40+ mph but will settle for 12 mph and a 20 mile range for now.
DAND214
10 MW
I just got 26 packsand have a code that will save anyone some money and get me some back. USE THIS CODE http://www.hobbyking.com/buddy.asp?code=BBD9F12B-6648-4F0A-9389-A55A48F554E1 YOUR PRICE SHOULD BE 22.01 A PACK.
NEED black12 GA WIRE HAVE THAT TOO http://www.hobbyking.com/buddy.asp?code=9FDD0FB9-6C3C-45AA-854F-CA50F39099CE then it's only 1.43 a mater red http://www.hobbyking.com/buddy.asp?code=51A0789D-2C5A-4305-ADCA-B31F2298628F
If we can save money, why not!
Dan
NEED black12 GA WIRE HAVE THAT TOO http://www.hobbyking.com/buddy.asp?code=9FDD0FB9-6C3C-45AA-854F-CA50F39099CE then it's only 1.43 a mater red http://www.hobbyking.com/buddy.asp?code=51A0789D-2C5A-4305-ADCA-B31F2298628F
If we can save money, why not!
Dan
Wheazel
10 kW
Just wanna mention that there are some 18650 cells out there that offer similar bang for the buck.
I did buy 200 LG ICR18650D1 at 2,71$ apiece. And each ell deliver over 10Wh if charged to intended maxvoltage of 4,35v.
Close to 4Wh per dollar. They are low C cells tho. Pack needs to be large to compare with these lipos.
I did buy 200 LG ICR18650D1 at 2,71$ apiece. And each ell deliver over 10Wh if charged to intended maxvoltage of 4,35v.
Close to 4Wh per dollar. They are low C cells tho. Pack needs to be large to compare with these lipos.
latecurtis
100 MW
hobby king also has these
Turnigy nano-tech 8000mAh 6S 25~50C Lipo Pack - $109.06
It would take 4 of the 4s or two packs at 29.6 volts each to better the 6s above. in Ah. plus you would have to stop and change the 4s pack after about 5 miles or so. The 6s would go about 8 miles before switching packs. The downside is the 6s only puts out 22.5 volts. vs 29.6 with two 4s in series. Unless I am sure my 24 volt controller and motor can handle 29.6 volts I will have to go with the 6s. I like the idea of a little more power and speed with the two 4s, but not if it will damage my motor or controller.
If someone can tell me if my currie izip is good for 29.6 volts it will be appreciated. I bought it last year 2013 so it is newer than 2009 which is when things changed. I heard that before 09 you could seriously overvolt them but not after. Is this information correct?
If I ever get enough money together I will get a 36 or 48 volt front wheel kit. There is a 5s 8000mah also for about $73. I think two of them in series is about 36 volts and three about 48. 2 or 3 - 5s 8000 for the front and two 4s or 1 - 6s for the rear is what Im hoping
for Also the back has an option for two batteries and a switch to run both. This will allow me an xtra battery pack for xtra range
so I would,nt have to change battery packs as often. The bike is very heavy so ping batteries or another leadass battery is totally
not an option. Yes I am a NOOB. I am very sorry about that. But I remember what I read and retain information well. I could talk for hours about physics but cant begin to understand the math behind it. I don't like the idea of wiring large numbers of lithium batteries together for the simple reason that one bad battery could lead to a catastrophic event. I know lithium batteries are very flammable. And I am a little more than slightly disenchanted that there are bad ones that swell up. That's why I choose not to wire more than two in series for 24 to 36 volt systems. and not more than 3 for 48 volts. also is there a charger for any configuration or do I need separate chargers for each type of battery pack. feedback on this post is greatly appreciated.
Turnigy nano-tech 8000mAh 6S 25~50C Lipo Pack - $109.06
It would take 4 of the 4s or two packs at 29.6 volts each to better the 6s above. in Ah. plus you would have to stop and change the 4s pack after about 5 miles or so. The 6s would go about 8 miles before switching packs. The downside is the 6s only puts out 22.5 volts. vs 29.6 with two 4s in series. Unless I am sure my 24 volt controller and motor can handle 29.6 volts I will have to go with the 6s. I like the idea of a little more power and speed with the two 4s, but not if it will damage my motor or controller.
If someone can tell me if my currie izip is good for 29.6 volts it will be appreciated. I bought it last year 2013 so it is newer than 2009 which is when things changed. I heard that before 09 you could seriously overvolt them but not after. Is this information correct?
If I ever get enough money together I will get a 36 or 48 volt front wheel kit. There is a 5s 8000mah also for about $73. I think two of them in series is about 36 volts and three about 48. 2 or 3 - 5s 8000 for the front and two 4s or 1 - 6s for the rear is what Im hoping
for Also the back has an option for two batteries and a switch to run both. This will allow me an xtra battery pack for xtra range
so I would,nt have to change battery packs as often. The bike is very heavy so ping batteries or another leadass battery is totally
not an option. Yes I am a NOOB. I am very sorry about that. But I remember what I read and retain information well. I could talk for hours about physics but cant begin to understand the math behind it. I don't like the idea of wiring large numbers of lithium batteries together for the simple reason that one bad battery could lead to a catastrophic event. I know lithium batteries are very flammable. And I am a little more than slightly disenchanted that there are bad ones that swell up. That's why I choose not to wire more than two in series for 24 to 36 volt systems. and not more than 3 for 48 volts. also is there a charger for any configuration or do I need separate chargers for each type of battery pack. feedback on this post is greatly appreciated.
latecurtis
100 MW
ZIPPY Flightmax 8000mAh 4S1P 30C
Hobby king also has these. $63 dollars a piece. another good bang for the buck.
I just wish they would come up with a 10000 15000 or 20000mah battery.
If there was a high enough demand for higher Ah batteries which I certainly believe there is by the large numbers of posts on these
forums. Is it possible that a large group of us, all wanting high Ah lithium batteries at an affordable price. we could contact Hobby King and see if they could produce these batteries which would make all of our lives better. Its just some food for thought.
Happy trails. sincerely latecurtis.
Hobby king also has these. $63 dollars a piece. another good bang for the buck.
I just wish they would come up with a 10000 15000 or 20000mah battery.
If there was a high enough demand for higher Ah batteries which I certainly believe there is by the large numbers of posts on these
forums. Is it possible that a large group of us, all wanting high Ah lithium batteries at an affordable price. we could contact Hobby King and see if they could produce these batteries which would make all of our lives better. Its just some food for thought.
Happy trails. sincerely latecurtis.
John Bozi
100 kW
I like the dimensions and price of these but nobody has mentioned weighing up hassles of wiring and charging more batteries. For some people who like to balance charge more frequently it would take twice as long and there is the reason people pay more for an 8s battery.
I'm really interested in two of these under my down tube.
I'm really interested in two of these under my down tube.
friendly1uk
1 MW
It is a pity there is no 3s or 5s in order to sum up 13s in bricks. The required number of cells to produce 48v. One of the few standard voltages we have.
Waffle: I had to chop open a 4th 4s brick just to get a single cell of the right proportion. 40x10x127mm+tabs. I also found spot welding meant sacrificing cells. My displays battery meter wants 48v though.
Waffle: I had to chop open a 4th 4s brick just to get a single cell of the right proportion. 40x10x127mm+tabs. I also found spot welding meant sacrificing cells. My displays battery meter wants 48v though.
John Bozi
100 kW
friendly1uk said:
I thought 14s was the best for 48v nominal.
This is why I am interested in 8s+6s series... only need to charge two batteries instead of what I thought was the bit under the bar standard of 12s.
friendly1uk
1 MW
3.7v X 13s = 48.1v
The intended charge voltage is 4.2v per cell, which gives 54.6v in total when full. This could smoke 36v controllers, which often contain 50v rated parts. Even 12s, when fully charged, tips slightly over 50v at 50.4v
12s also suits modeling chargers. We all know they are a common theme in battery fires though. They should be avoided where possible.
The intended charge voltage is 4.2v per cell, which gives 54.6v in total when full. This could smoke 36v controllers, which often contain 50v rated parts. Even 12s, when fully charged, tips slightly over 50v at 50.4v
12s also suits modeling chargers. We all know they are a common theme in battery fires though. They should be avoided where possible.
Ykick
1 GW
John Bozi said:
Maddening right? I went around with this for years and finally decided to upgrade all my controllers to handle 16S, 59-67V (4qty, 4S Hardcase) and for my small geared motors program to run @ comparable "speed" of motor rated voltage.
I love the 16S package shape/size, ease of JST extension cables to create 8S balance wiring and the additional Wh's come in handy even when not using the full voltage potential:
And, if I develop a bad brick (knock on wood) easy to plug & play replacement.
I generally connect a BMS to 16S and bulk charge but as anybody knows after a while using this format it's very easy and much quicker to balance any lagging cells through balance connectors as opposed to isolating and connecting a full balance charger. And then wait for the charge, discharge, repeat, over and over for the slow RC Charger or BMS balance process.
John Bozi
100 kW
that's correct 13s =48v but my introduction into bikes as many people's was advertised as 48v system, however the 48v charger charged to 58v, and most the ride is 48v under load, sits at 52v and sags to 48v.
Voltage choice is always a funny one right?
I have now tried everything from 12s 15s 18s 21s and 24s and all at various amps from 35-65 amps.
12s is boring for me but not too bad at high amps.
24s didn't feel safe, just always thought something would blow or I'd fly off the bike around a corner.
currently at 21s but think I could settle for a little less 90% the time but still need that boost for the 10% of time. It all sits there as battery capacity whatever you do, V or amps, so it's more fun at the end of the day to have say 24s2p than 12s4p.
less wiring the better for me because I like balance charging at 2p.
Voltage choice is always a funny one right?
I have now tried everything from 12s 15s 18s 21s and 24s and all at various amps from 35-65 amps.
12s is boring for me but not too bad at high amps.
24s didn't feel safe, just always thought something would blow or I'd fly off the bike around a corner.
currently at 21s but think I could settle for a little less 90% the time but still need that boost for the 10% of time. It all sits there as battery capacity whatever you do, V or amps, so it's more fun at the end of the day to have say 24s2p than 12s4p.
less wiring the better for me because I like balance charging at 2p.
friendly1uk
1 MW
Ykick said:
If your using a bms, you should never balance them yourself. If your having to then something is wrong. Your charging process should be exactly the same as a mobile phone. One small plug and let it get on with it.
Ykick
1 GW
friendly1uk said:
I generally don't manually balance when using the BMS. It's a convenient technique to understand if/when running naked packs as I still do from time to time.
