Can I use a lower volt batteries like 48v on a rated 60v e scooter?
- Thread starter Diangelo
- Start date
Sunder
10 MW
Is it one of these?
https://x-tremescooters.com/products/electric-bicycles/electric-bicycle-scooters/xb-504#/13
It says that the default battery is 48v, so if you bought it second hand, the previous owner might have upgraded the battery, in which case yes.
Otherwise, in most cases, no. The normal operating range for a 48v battery is well below the low voltage safety cut off for 60v.
https://x-tremescooters.com/products/electric-bicycles/electric-bicycle-scooters/xb-504#/13
It says that the default battery is 48v, so if you bought it second hand, the previous owner might have upgraded the battery, in which case yes.
Otherwise, in most cases, no. The normal operating range for a 48v battery is well below the low voltage safety cut off for 60v.
It’s really similar the only difference are the lights but I found a better bike I like. Thank you I just had a couple questions can I add more batteries to a scooter to extend miles? Or how should I go about this to get the most miles possible for a 48 volt or 60 volt scooter? I’m going to work full time post mates and Uber eats for roughly 7 months
Sunder
10 MW
Yes, you can add more batteries. Try to keep them the same chemistry unless you really know what you're doing, and copy like for like - Most batteries will tell you how many cells in series - E.g. anything from 12 cells to 14 cells in lithium can be vaguely called "48v", but if you get the number wrong, you could cause yourself all sorts of world of hurt, ranging from getting virtually no additional range, to setting the bike on fire.
Best way to extend range? You could write a decent sized paper on that, but here's the basics:
1. Pedal - Which makes the style you were looking at a little poor - Yes they have pedals, but they aren't designed for efficient pedaling, and 176lbs? I hope you have legs like Lance Armstrong and a good supply of steroids to match.
2. Energy consumption increases exponentially to speed, although until about 25mph, this is not a huge contributor. If your new preferred bike goes over 25mph, watch your speed. See graph below, especially the impact of wind:
3. On hills where the bike can't put enough power through to keep up speed, as counter intuitive as it seems, lower the throttle, and pedal. Electric motors are inefficient when they are unable to get to at least 70% of their "desired" speed, so if you can't change the hill, change the "Desired" speed, by lowering the throttle input.
4. If you are using lead acid, look up the Peukert's Effect. The faster you use energy, the less there is to use.
5. You can maybe get very marginal gains by playing around with aerodynamics and road friction. Getting thinner tyres, running them at very high pressures, changing your seating position to sit hunched, etc.
To be honest, almost none of the above is really worth it. My approach would be:
1. Only consider bikes with lithium batteries. Peukert's effect will kill you, and will limit the rate of charge.
2. Get the biggest fastest charger you can fit on your bike. I don't know where you live, but in Australia, all power points must be rated a minimum of 2400w, and in reality can handle a fair bit more than that. If it was me, I'd be getting a 2400w charger, or two 1200w chargers, or three 800w chargers.
Then, as you get to know your regular restaurants (Sorry, don't know what post mates is, but I suspect it's uber eats for mail/documents/couriers?), I'd ask if I can charge while they sort out the pick up. 5 minutes of 2400w is still 200wh. I have no idea how far that will take you on an eScooter, but on an eBike, that's easily 8-10 miles in 5 mins.
If the order is already ready for you all the time, and the above isn't feasible, figure out where the public charging points are - In Australia, they are often on lamp-posts, side of buildings (Don't trespass), in car parks of shopping centres, etc. Just take a guerilla charge between jobs, or if you have to, refuse jobs for 20 minutes to refuel.
Best way to extend range? You could write a decent sized paper on that, but here's the basics:
1. Pedal - Which makes the style you were looking at a little poor - Yes they have pedals, but they aren't designed for efficient pedaling, and 176lbs? I hope you have legs like Lance Armstrong and a good supply of steroids to match.
2. Energy consumption increases exponentially to speed, although until about 25mph, this is not a huge contributor. If your new preferred bike goes over 25mph, watch your speed. See graph below, especially the impact of wind:
3. On hills where the bike can't put enough power through to keep up speed, as counter intuitive as it seems, lower the throttle, and pedal. Electric motors are inefficient when they are unable to get to at least 70% of their "desired" speed, so if you can't change the hill, change the "Desired" speed, by lowering the throttle input.
4. If you are using lead acid, look up the Peukert's Effect. The faster you use energy, the less there is to use.
5. You can maybe get very marginal gains by playing around with aerodynamics and road friction. Getting thinner tyres, running them at very high pressures, changing your seating position to sit hunched, etc.
To be honest, almost none of the above is really worth it. My approach would be:
1. Only consider bikes with lithium batteries. Peukert's effect will kill you, and will limit the rate of charge.
2. Get the biggest fastest charger you can fit on your bike. I don't know where you live, but in Australia, all power points must be rated a minimum of 2400w, and in reality can handle a fair bit more than that. If it was me, I'd be getting a 2400w charger, or two 1200w chargers, or three 800w chargers.
Then, as you get to know your regular restaurants (Sorry, don't know what post mates is, but I suspect it's uber eats for mail/documents/couriers?), I'd ask if I can charge while they sort out the pick up. 5 minutes of 2400w is still 200wh. I have no idea how far that will take you on an eScooter, but on an eBike, that's easily 8-10 miles in 5 mins.
If the order is already ready for you all the time, and the above isn't feasible, figure out where the public charging points are - In Australia, they are often on lamp-posts, side of buildings (Don't trespass), in car parks of shopping centres, etc. Just take a guerilla charge between jobs, or if you have to, refuse jobs for 20 minutes to refuel.
wturber
1 MW
The most effective way to extend range is to ride a recumbent - especially with a fairing.
I'm assuming that isn't an option, so the next best two methods are 1) to not exceed 20 mph unless you are going downhill or have a tailwind 2) pedal assist as much as you practically can. The difference in range between riding 20 mph and 25 mph on a conventional upright bike is about 25%. It may not be that severe on a scooter.
Sunder's point about "guerrilla" charging is well made. Even a very robust battery pack (2000 watt hours) will probably only give you four hours of riding time in the 20-25mph speed range. The biggest problem there is that high wattage chargers tend to be large, heavy and expensive. The trick for you is in finding a good balance between charger capacity and battery size for your trip characteristics. A self-coiling (or retractable) power cord that can be quickly deployed and stored may be the best thing you can add.
I'm assuming that isn't an option, so the next best two methods are 1) to not exceed 20 mph unless you are going downhill or have a tailwind 2) pedal assist as much as you practically can. The difference in range between riding 20 mph and 25 mph on a conventional upright bike is about 25%. It may not be that severe on a scooter.
Sunder's point about "guerrilla" charging is well made. Even a very robust battery pack (2000 watt hours) will probably only give you four hours of riding time in the 20-25mph speed range. The biggest problem there is that high wattage chargers tend to be large, heavy and expensive. The trick for you is in finding a good balance between charger capacity and battery size for your trip characteristics. A self-coiling (or retractable) power cord that can be quickly deployed and stored may be the best thing you can add.
wturber
1 MW
BTW, do not be surprised if riding an e-bike that looks like a scooter or moped becomes a hassle. Police officers are often not well versed in the law and will judge things mostly based on appearance. So if you ebike looks like a moped or scooter and isn't sporting the requisite license plate, you might get hassled by police that don't know the difference. That might not be an ongoing problem if your local law enforcement is reasonable and willing to listen and learn. This, of course, also depends on what your local laws are and if the ebike you want to use complies with them or not. It may not. You need to check. In Arizona, for instance, you need to have the pedals installed and operational for the "scooter" to qualify as an electric bicycle.
Similar threads
