Can you put a 20" wheel on a bike designed for a 26"

Flubber

1 mW
Joined
Oct 27, 2011
Messages
10
Wondering if this is possible what would the problems be?

Would the bottom bracket be to low to the ground?

Obviously brake mounts need to be changed for some types.

Thinking about this to obtain more torque.

What about customizing the frame with lowered drop outs
 
Disk brakes dont care what size the rims are.

And yes, my daily driver has 20" rear and 24" front on a frame originally meant for 26's... so does my RC bike. Pedals do come closer to the ground, specially on a non-suspension frame, but a DH bike has fairly tall cranks to start with so it " works " .. it's all a compromise.. :twisted:
 
Welcome to the Sphere. The steering geometry could change for the worse, causing bad manners when turning. It really depends on the frame you are using. You could try 24 inchers first.
Brian L.
 
I am intrigued. anyone have any pictures?
 
RallySTX said:
Welcome to the Sphere. The steering geometry could change for the worse, causing bad manners when turning. It really depends on the frame you are using. You could try 24 inchers first.
Brian L.

I'm not sure it would actually Brian, if 20s are used front and rear, its when you have them
like YPedaLMaNs' e-bikes the head geometry is altered...

Problem is obviously the pedal strike issue, you can buy different length cranks however even
the shortest would still see a minimal clearance, you could cut them and re-tap them, you require
two taps for this as ones left hand thread and ones right hand thread, Chain Reaction sells these
taps IIRC they are ~30 bucks a pop...

best of luck and welcome to ES....

KiM
 
I use a 26" trials frame with 20" wheels and a suspension front fork this gives plenty of peddle clearance ( due to the high BB of trials bikes) and the front forks rises and pushes the front out enough to make the bike a bit more stable at higher speeds.
 
Ypedal can you take a picture of your Tidal Force with pedals on it and maybe measure the pedal clearance with the stock crank. I would greatly appreciate it. You wouldnt have to put it completely on. I want to run a 20 inch wheel on my next build. Ive wanted to for a while. But i never seen a 20 inch wheel on a TF nor have I heard anyones experience with it.
 
You'll have to corner with the inside pedal up, that's for sure. Should clear when upright though.
 
Weellllll, this inspires me to move my urban bmx project to the side and move the rear motor/20" wheels to my nashbar mtb frame. I think I'll give it a try, since this solves several of the issues I am working on with the bmx frame. (#1 being that the RST Capa T10 suspension front fork is too small and too weak for someone of my size and weight.) This gives me disc brakes front and rear, I get to use the Dart2 suspension front fork, and the "cockpit" is more accomodating. I get to use my suspension seat post and spring mounted seat. I may even get to move the batteries to the middle triangle.

Having temporarily moved the motor/rear wheel, and the 20" front wheel to my mtb frame, the only issues I see are the limited ground clearance on the low side pedal and the rear derailleur. I might have to switch to a road rear derailleur, since my mountain derailleur is so long. Moving to 20" wheels front and rear, I really haven't changed the effective steering geometry on the front wheel at all.

Thanks, folks. I needed something to spark my interest again. Thanks for the 'round tuit. :)

wdwrkr51
 
Flubber said:
Wondering if this is possible what would the problems be?

Would the bottom bracket be to low to the ground?

Probably. It would be about 3" lower if you swapped both wheels for 20"; about 2" lower from swapping out only the rear. If you use a smaller wheel only on the rear, the frames angles will slacken by several degrees and the front wheel will have an increased tendency to flop to the side at normal bicycle speeds.

Commercially available mountain bikes have had up to 13" bottom bracket heights, with 11-1/2" to 12" far more common; in my observation, about 10" is a workable minimum for ordinary length cranks. Use 152mm cranks and you can drop to about 9-1/4" BB height. The narrower the crank's tread width and the smaller the pedals, the less of a problem you'll have with pedal strike.

Obviously brake mounts need to be changed for some types.

This is a good time to consider using a drum or roller brake, which doesn't require a special mount, and which works better on a small wheel anyway.

Thinking about this to obtain more torque.

Hub motor, then? That limits your choice of brake somewhat.

What about customizing the frame with lowered drop outs

That would work to restore frame geometry, but at the cost of greatly increased stress from normal chain tension (pedaling). You'd have to beef up the chainstays and not just the dropouts.

Chalo
 
:D You dont need to mount the battery outside the frame on a BMX.. fits quite snug 8)
micks finished.jpg

I know its not technically a bmx but it has the same size triangle.
 
I'm planning on dealing with the pedal strike issue and the need for higher rear wheel rpm by using a $42 145mm long 130mm bcd crank arms with a $40 60t chainwheel.

http://www.calhouncycle.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=70&idproduct=2619

http://www.vueltausa.com/components/chainrings/se-chain-ring-silver-130mm-60t.html#product_description

What I don't know yet is how much I'll have to pay for a bottom bracket that will accomodate a chainline that will clear a 20" x 3.00 rear tire. This issue may force me to run a narrower rear tire.
 
Lemlux said:
I'm planning dealing with the pedal strike issue and the need for higher rear wheel rpm by using a $42 145mm long 130mm bcd crank arms with a $40 60t chainwheel.
http://www.calhouncycle.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=70&idproduct=2619
http://www.vueltausa.com/components/chainrings/se-chain-ring-silver-130mm-60t.html#product_description

Those things don't go together so well. Long cranks and big rings are a good match, because of the increased leverage of a long crank, and the need to spin it more slowly because the travel distance at the pedals is larger. But short cranks are easy to spin faster than normal, and they have less leverage than regular cranks. A normal sized ring is already effectively bigger than normal when it's on a short crank. So if I were you, I wouldn't spend extra money and opt into needless mechanical clearance issues by using a 60t ring as a first resort.

What I don't know yet is how much I'll have to pay for a bottom bracket that will accomodate a chainline that will clear a 20" x 3.00 rear tire. This issue may force me to run a narrower rear tire.

Put the ring in the outboard position on the crank. Start with a 127mm bottom bracket, which is cheap and widely available. That should be enough. If there's interference between the chain and tire, it will be in the largest sprockets-- which is another reason you might not want the biggest possible chainring.

Chalo
 
Chalo: I agree with and understand the issues you raise and appreciate your 127mm BB width suggestion.

Problem is that I'm 65, my knees are progressively achingly arthritic and I'll be having my right hip replaced in December. I expect to depend on the hub motor to get me rolling above 5mph and want to get mild exercise by assist pedalling at speeds approaching 30 mph. The weaker stroke of shorter cranks should create less knee stress which may enable me in to continue to use the bike for a longer time frame as my joints become increasingly less cooperative.

A remote additional possibility is that I might be able to find a front derailleur that would be able to shift between 130mm bcd chainwheels of 60t and 48 to 50t. I gather that a 10 to 12t step is the maximum generally recommended but that the derailleur may be unobtanium.
 
I forgot to mention that SickBikeParts has 132mm and 153mm cartridge BBs at reasonable prices. They're nicely made units, too. The crank you posted a link to does not look like it has too much flare in the arms, so you might be able to use such a long BB and not even have to pedal like a duck.

It make sense that if you're reserving your pedal efforts for high speeds, you'll need very high gearing (especially with a 20" wheel). There's an unacknowledged benefit to huge rings, too-- they are much easier on your chain, so the chain and sprockets can last a long time. As long as you understand that short crank plus big ring will limit the amount of power you can contribute at the pedals in most situations, and that the cranks may have to be placed on a longer BB spindle than would otherwise be necessary, there should be no other normal operating drawbacks I can think of.

The clearance between chainring and ground will be much diminished due to the larger ring and lower BB height. A 60t ring has a radius of almost 5 inches, and your bike rolling on 20" wheels could have a BB height of only 8 inches. So you'll need to take special care rolling it up and down steps and curbs, lest you smash the ring into a hard surface and damage it.

If you want to use a 48-60 double combination (a pretty good idea in my opinion), a "road triple" front derailleur would be a good choice. Road triples are usually configured with 30-42-52 rings, so the matching front derailleurs are best matched to the curvature of a 52 to 54t ring but with a 22t difference. That means you would have to run the derailleur up a little higher off the teeth of a 60T ring to keep from fouling the tooth tips, but 12t to 16t difference should not be a problem at all.

Here's one example that should work well and not cost too much: http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-8-speed-Triple-Bicycle-Derailleur/dp/B003NV9AI6

Chalo
 
20" wheel on a 26" bike is nice but it is better witgh big fat tire to reduce the vibration and equal the confort of a 26" wheel

My giant is now using a 16" rim ( for 20" bicycle wheel) from Ypedal stock ( was made for the zero motorcycle) and i really love them!

On all rim i had i never bended any of these.

The tire i have is a Duro 16 x 3.25" and it is really good but heavy.

Doc
 

Attachments

  • P1080520_800x600.jpg
    P1080520_800x600.jpg
    79.5 KB · Views: 1,954
I agree with Doc on the big fatties for 20", not so much for vibration, because my Super V is like riding on a cloud regardless of the wheel, but instead because it looks better to me. Here it is with a 20"x3" on the front that is about a 21.5" diameter with a 5" wide scooter tire in a 13" rim that works out to about a 19" diameter tire. Imagine once I enclose the swingarm to cover the duct tape that makes any battery better.

Super V with Hubmonster new swingarm.JPG
 
Chalo:

Thanks for the Sickbikeparts and front derailleur recommendations.

I've exchanged emails with the the folks at Sickbikeparts and they advise that the linked $17.95 153mm bb will fit both the 2007 Gary Fisher 19" frame I'd like to build up for me and the 1993 chro-moly Giant ATX770 16" frame I'd like to build up for my wife. I like that all of the 40mm additional spindle length is set up for the chain side.

http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=107&osCsid=tirlhv73ua24e6lvkkhofbnoo0
 
New question: If the 157mm offset bb spindle sticks out 40mm further than normal on the chainwheel side how does one mount a derailleur to function 40mm further outboard? Are any special adapters required for the connector that wraps around the seat tube?
 
Lemlux said:
New question: If the 157mm offset bb spindle sticks out 40mm further than normal on the chainwheel side how does one mount a derailleur to function 40mm further outboard? Are any special adapters required for the connector that wraps around the seat tube?

I have the same problem you have. I'm 64yo with 2 bad hips and 2 bad knees (both knees over due for replacement). I use a Nuvinci rear hub for my grearing and run twin chains (peddle and center drive motors). Works very well but like you I want to go with smally wheels. I hope to use my 26" frame with 24" double wall rims and Big Apple wide tires to improve the ride. I currently have rim brakes both front and rear and was planning to convert to a rear disk and front drum brake. However, I worry about the low cost suspension fork I have being used with a drum brke. I would think center braking would significantly increase the stress on the suspension fork.......Anyone have a thought?

Bob
 
Back
Top