Ricky_nz
10 kW
Hi All,
My first post, been hanging around a while picking up some good information.
Just received a new Turnigy out of the latest batch and its clearly changed from my version 2 one ( first one with skirt bearing.)
1) The end of the housing seems to have more room so it is less likely for the wire insulation to be cut.
2) The can screws now require allen keys which should be easier to undo after the motor has seen some use
3) The internal frame between the can and skirt bearing is now not anodised.
4) the prop adapter parts that are not needed for a bike are now natural aluminum, not anodised colours.
5) The shaft is approx 20mm longer on the threaded end ( opposite end to mounting end ).
If you have a version 2 I suggest you get something tougher than heatshrink to protect the wires where they leave the motor.
Ricky
My first post, been hanging around a while picking up some good information.
Just received a new Turnigy out of the latest batch and its clearly changed from my version 2 one ( first one with skirt bearing.)
1) The end of the housing seems to have more room so it is less likely for the wire insulation to be cut.
2) The can screws now require allen keys which should be easier to undo after the motor has seen some use
3) The internal frame between the can and skirt bearing is now not anodised.
4) the prop adapter parts that are not needed for a bike are now natural aluminum, not anodised colours.
5) The shaft is approx 20mm longer on the threaded end ( opposite end to mounting end ).
If you have a version 2 I suggest you get something tougher than heatshrink to protect the wires where they leave the motor.
Ricky