Chinese Hub Motor

[Tamatoa]

Hi,

I just purchased a set of hub motors from a guy in China, it seems to be low run production and I don't see this anywhere else than on Taobao. I just thought I would share.

Got them today, and was just able to mount them on a truck which I was not using anymore since I bought caliber type trucks and motor mounts from enertion for my first build.
The instruction are in Chinese and I can't read it but there are some pictures. The inside is threaded so that's is how they are mounted on the truck but I need to drill the axle to screw a set screw in order to keep it from coming off, is am not sure yet how I will do that but I am sure it will be challenging.

I have not received my I am waiting for ESCs and batteries to be able to test how they spin but other than the drilling the axle and somewhat very thin cables they look decent.

Here are some pics.

 

[psychotiller]

That just doesn't look like a very well thought out design...Drilling into your axle with that size bolt is going to significantly weaken your truck. Also, all of the shavings in their pic are going to end up on the magnets in that motor...

Let us know how it goes.

 

[Tamatoa]

Good point, Thanks. I will try to prevent the scraps of metal to end up inside the motors when I drill it.

 

[LEVer]

This looks like another one of Jacob's/Hummina's designed hub. I won't be surprised if you guys see a V2 look-alike soon.

How many poles are in those stator? Does it need a special ESC?

 

[chickentail]

Seems that the copy machine warming up now:
http://www.alibaba.com/product-deta...0318403526.html?spm=a2700.7724838.30.1.sS7voH
Even the color looks familiar
Who dares to order 10 pairs MOQ?

 

[Hummina Shadeeba]

That stator does have a lot of poles but since the motor spins slowly think regular hobby esc would be fast enough.

You probably don't really have to order 10 of the ones on alibaba.

The design looks similar to Jacob and onloops as it has plates at the front and back holding the rotor in place. Ones I'm getting made don't have screws holding the motor together, a ring on the inside holds it together and the screws only hold a flange for the rubber
Maybe forget the screw to secure it to the axle and use red loctite. I tested it to have 35 ft/lbs of holding force on just the axle threads and the motor maybe would put out 12. When it does finally give its still very resistant and doesn't spin freely.

How much were they with shipping and how's the rubber and how much is extra?

Got the bulk quote on the ones I'm getting made and it's still only $64.40!! With the cost of shipping and the rubber the total cost should easily be under $100. Samples will take two weeks to make, then fast shipping, and I should have the rubber waiting to try

 

[Tamatoa]

The stator does have a lot of poles, unfortunately I did not take the time to count yet. Also, it seems like it has some black coating on the wires.

I think I will try that loctite method first and not go too fast to see if they stay in place.

For the price, I paid around US$300 for the 2 including shipping and now after reading what people think about the design I am starting to think that it is very expensive
I may have been too excited and messed up with this purchase. With the savings I am making on the mounts and motors I thought it was not so bad, that will teach me to buy from unknown sellers.

By rubber do you mean the wheel? if so, I think it is like the flywheels clones but I can't be sure and it feels maybe too hard, I will know once I try them.

Too bad yours are not available yet, I would have bought them instead especially since I was looking at pediglide's V2 but they are out of stock for now it seems.

 

[LEVer]

my question is...why is the hole for the set screw only half?

 

[Hummina Shadeeba]

you can have high rebound rubber with a hard rubber but the Chinese clones...suck at rolling compared to the orangutan kegels. Could be partially due to their softness and the somewhat rough roads I'm on don't know.
The windings on that motor are burly fat I wonder what the kv is, or maybe the kv is low with the many poles and they then can use thick wire. That wire could take a lot of amps. Nice looking windings

did u get a price for the replacement rubber?

Pediglide u thinking of pouring wheels or are u going to continue to bore them out ? Seems the next step in your evolution.

Set screw just has to go in the axle a bit for the one side

 

[psychotiller]

my question is...why is the hole for the set screw only half?

Half or whole, because the ID of the hubmotor is 8mm, that means you would only have the material of the 8mm axle to use for an anchor point. Am I wrong? It would be like sawing through a tree branch while you sat on it...

 

[Tamatoa]

my question is...why is the hole for the set screw only half?

Half or whole, because the ID of the hubmotor is 8mm, that means you would only have the material of the 8mm axle to use for an anchor point. Am I wrong? It would be like sawing through a tree branch while you sat on it...

I am not sure if I really need to drill through the axle, after looking again at the pictures in the tutorial the seller gave me and if I understood correctly, I have to drill the silver part of the truck (sorry don't know the name of that part) and make it the other half for the set screw. Once they connect, both half hole are where I should put the screw the set screw. I am not confident that I will be able to drill half a hole on the side of that thing and I don't know if that would be enough to hold them together, I guess I will go with loctite at first.

By the way, the stator has 24 poles.

 

[LEVer]

I think this set screw is not meant to prevent the hub motor from slipping out of the axle, the screw-on axle extender takes care of that. Making the hole half makes it also pointless for this application.

I think it's an anchor and meant to prevent the stator from spinning on the axle. If that's what it is for, good luck. I don't think even red Loctite will help.

 

[made_in_the_alps_legacy]

.You must not drill the axle, only the soft alumium alloy casted part, that screw acts as additonnal anti rotation - like a keyway

 

[psychotiller]

my question is...why is the hole for the set screw only half?

Half or whole, because the ID of the hubmotor is 8mm, that means you would only have the material of the 8mm axle to use for an anchor point. Am I wrong? It would be like sawing through a tree branch while you sat on it...

I am not sure if I really need to drill through the axle, after looking again at the pictures in the tutorial the seller gave me and if I understood correctly, I have to drill the silver part of the truck (sorry don't know the name of that part) and make it the other half for the set screw. Once they connect, both half hole are where I should put the screw the set screw. I am not confident that I will be able to drill half a hole on the side of that thing and I don't know if that would be enough to hold them together, I guess I will go with loctite at first.

By the way, the stator has 24 poles.

Don't waste your time trying to drill half a hole through the hanger...It won't work.

 

[Sharkface]

Just gonna throw in my two cents here:

Had a chinese coworker try and translate that info graphic of directions. She specifically mentioned drilling a half circle or something along those lines. She had a hard time reading it becuase she has no idea what any of these parts are, but there is certainly mention of loktite and drilling a "half circle" as she said it to me.

 

[cmatson]

That stator does have a lot of poles but since the motor spins slowly think regular hobby esc would be fast enough.

You probably don't really have to order 10 of the ones on alibaba.

The design looks similar to Jacob and onloops as it has plates at the front and back holding the rotor in place. Ones I'm getting made don't have screws holding the motor together, a ring on the inside holds it together and the screws only hold a flange for the rubber
Maybe forget the screw to secure it to the axle and use red loctite. I tested it to have 35 ft/lbs of holding force on just the axle threads and the motor maybe would put out 12. When it does finally give its still very resistant and doesn't spin freely.

How much were they with shipping and how's the rubber and how much is extra?

Got the bulk quote on the ones I'm getting made and it's still only $64.40!! With the cost of shipping and the rubber the total cost should easily be under $100. Samples will take two weeks to make, then fast shipping, and I should have the rubber waiting to try

will yours be able to screw onto any truck? if so, that's pretty darn sweet!

 

[Hummina Shadeeba]

yea. glue it on. We spent a long time thinking of a way to fix it to the truck and were working with surf rodz to do a special truck, but why bother when you can glue it on any axle. cheap. universal. I tested red locktite's ft/lbs claims and with it just on the threads and it held more than enough torque, if it weren't enough there are definitely glues out there that are much stronger.

super cheap considering the components and 1500watts wrapped and recessed in the kegel shape. I think it's going to be second to none in design and materials and cheaper. It's taken a very long time I've been doing a lot of talk on here but... I've been enthusiastic about this for a long time and talk too much!! I did promise people here these motors for the manufacturing cost. We have to get to 100 sold to get the bulk price. I don't have that money around and don't want investors so kickstarter and people on here is the hope. Otherwise, if we don't get to 100, I'll be one of two people with very very expensive samples of these motors and that'll be the end of it. If you're interested in getting one or two or 5 or 98... manufacturing time is 20 days max.
hope i'm not stepping on your thread Tamatoa..chinese hub motors is the title and I felt it was relevant.

 

[Tamatoa]

Not a problem, I am interested as well anyways.

 

[made_in_the_alps_legacy]

Not sure how it would remain removable if you use enough thread locker to withstand the torque.
That idea is similar as "taperlock bush":

 

[Tamatoa]

Not sure how it would remain removable if you use enough thread locker to withstand the torque.
That idea is similar as "taperlock bush"

That's a good point, I was going to sacrifice those trucks but maybe I should try to do as advised by the tutorial first.
I bought the thing so I am trying to stay positive and make it work now.
But do you think I need to match the thread I will make on the casted aluminum part with the ones on the motor? If they are not aligned perfectly, will I be able to screw the set screw? I watched videos on how to tap drill metal, but I have to find information on how to do the same on half a hole.

Thanks for the keyway comparison, that's a much better way to explain it.

 

[made_in_the_alps_legacy]

- bolt on properly the hub on the main axle using a wrench on the 2 flats u see there

- drill the hole, the drill bit will center itself between the hard and soft material, go the required depth - u will anyway feel if you reach the axle
- thread the hole, tapping is the same as in even metal

maybe you could get along with some dremel job grinding a groove and using a spring pin, but both grooves have to match exactly when the hub is properly bolted on the main axle, and the spring pin might fall off

can't wait to see them running

 

[Hummina Shadeeba]

The torque u can apply with a wrench is much more than will be applied by the motor. You won't have a problem removing the motor if use thread locker as you have those big flat faces you can apply a wrench to (cone wrench maybe).
Making a hole and then tapping it..then you have to buy the tools for probably a one time use. Gluing you can have it up and running in a day, and then you can tell us how they go! If it were to be permanent maybe you couldn't access a bearing but likely could rewind it if you burned the windings. But as I say with the right glue.. I'd just do red loctitie

 

[LEVer]

Why don't you just forget the set screw and the threads and just jam a key in there. You just need to make a keyway on the hanger.