Controller inside triangle bag?
- Thread starter zoddas
- Start date
Drunkskunk
100 GW
zoddas said:
Hello, Welcome to the forum. And yep! Temperature. That controller has those grooves for a reason. those are cooling fins. the controller needs to get airflow across those to keep from overheating.
Most of the time, its going to run cool, >40C' (100 degrees F) or so, but it can get hot enough to burn things when the motor is working hard.
Motorman64
1 µW
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2013
- Messages
- 4
Mines been in the bag for about 6-8 months.
In the summer month I left the zip slightly undone..
Works a treat.
In the summer month I left the zip slightly undone..
Works a treat.
@Motorman64,
The shop that fitted the e-kit for me does the same thing - places the controller in a bag. I pulled it out the other day, found that it's VERY hot after a ride, and two phase wires are glued together - cover was starting to melt. Best to keep in the open.
The shop that fitted the e-kit for me does the same thing - places the controller in a bag. I pulled it out the other day, found that it's VERY hot after a ride, and two phase wires are glued together - cover was starting to melt. Best to keep in the open.
e-beach
10 MW
zoddas said:
It depends on how hot it gets. If you live in a cool or cold environment then it might not be a problem. But, in the bag, it could get hot enough burn it out.
I agree with Drunkskunk. Put it somewhere where the wind can blow across it to keep it cool.
e-beach
10 MW
Hey Motorman64!
e-beach
10 MW
Hey assaf!
e-beach
10 MW
zoddas said:Well, during the summer months it can reach 20 - 25*C, but spring and autumn is typically between 5 to 15C*. In the winter overheating is not issue
Then you might be OK...Just check on it while you learn the characteristics of e-bike setup. As you are riding, stop periodically and feel the controller and see if it feels hot. Also feel the wires to make sure they are not getting hot either.
Around here, in the summer, the temperature can be as hot as 41*C. When it is that hot around here I ride much more slowly.
Just keep an eye on it until you understand how it is all working for you.
John in CR
100 TW
Controllers don't belong in bags or boxes. They need ventilation to dissipate heat during operation. Otherwise they would just have plastic housings instead of aluminum. Don't listen to those who say it's okay. Just because they've gotten away with it for a time is only anecdotal evidence that it's okay. Plenty of people have overheated and blown controllers in bags and containers to support the view that controllers shouldn't be enclosed.
The only way to put a controller in a container and expect real long-term durability would be if you went to the extra trouble and expense to actively ventilate the container, or somehow modify the controller to have a good thermal connection to the metal container or the bike frame itself. Even then you would need to monitor temps at least during a testing phase to make sure you have sufficient cooling.
The only way to put a controller in a container and expect real long-term durability would be if you went to the extra trouble and expense to actively ventilate the container, or somehow modify the controller to have a good thermal connection to the metal container or the bike frame itself. Even then you would need to monitor temps at least during a testing phase to make sure you have sufficient cooling.
DAND214
10 MW
As John says. They will get hot if enclosed.
What setup are you running?
Motor, wheel size, wieght, voltage, terrain, flat hilly, average temps and so. All needed to try to see if it's possible.
My controllers are either monted to the bottom of the rear rack if possible. I have three mounted like that the others are.
I have one monted in the Aluminum frame and kinda little air flow, another mounted to the frame and hidden in a wrap around the frame but has a tube directing air to it nd the third has it mounted to the rear suspension piviot arm and also covered. The third got very hot when it was 80 to 95 f temps of the summer but is running cool since it has cooled down.
All three are Mac 8t 26" big tires with 12s Lipos. Since I didn't see that much speed change from 15s down to 12s but did see a temp change. The speed was more than I needed at 15s.
Dan
What setup are you running?
Motor, wheel size, wieght, voltage, terrain, flat hilly, average temps and so. All needed to try to see if it's possible.
My controllers are either monted to the bottom of the rear rack if possible. I have three mounted like that the others are.
I have one monted in the Aluminum frame and kinda little air flow, another mounted to the frame and hidden in a wrap around the frame but has a tube directing air to it nd the third has it mounted to the rear suspension piviot arm and also covered. The third got very hot when it was 80 to 95 f temps of the summer but is running cool since it has cooled down.
All three are Mac 8t 26" big tires with 12s Lipos. Since I didn't see that much speed change from 15s down to 12s but did see a temp change. The speed was more than I needed at 15s.
Dan
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=54612
How hot it gets depends on so many things. Just because someone else's one gets hot, it doesn't mean yours will. I run all my controllers in bags, and I've not yet had a problem, but try not to wrap it too tight. The more space around it, the better. You need to check it too. Don't forget about it.
Seeing as someone mentioned it, those bullet/barrel phase wire connectors get very hot if you go over 22 amps, so they melt the insulating covers. If you go over 22 amps, you should either solder the wires or upgrade the connectors.
Seeing as someone mentioned it, those bullet/barrel phase wire connectors get very hot if you go over 22 amps, so they melt the insulating covers. If you go over 22 amps, you should either solder the wires or upgrade the connectors.
skeetab5780
1 MW
you can put your controller in any bag it will fit in. Just don't plug it in.
dogman dan
1 PW
A controller that is not pushing a lot of current at the moment won't get very hot. So in Norway, it might be quite possible to ride at moderate speeds and merely unzip the bag some in the summer.
But in my desert climate, only in the middle of winter would I consider trying it. I tend to have that battery bag stuffed full anyway.
And if you will be using a lot of watts, then you will need more cooling. My favorite location to mount controllers is on a rear rack. Right in front between a battery and the seat if there is a battery, or just on the rack if not. Top of the rack is easy to keep tire splash off it, and it's in the dry shadow of your ass when moving in the rain.
But in my desert climate, only in the middle of winter would I consider trying it. I tend to have that battery bag stuffed full anyway.
And if you will be using a lot of watts, then you will need more cooling. My favorite location to mount controllers is on a rear rack. Right in front between a battery and the seat if there is a battery, or just on the rack if not. Top of the rack is easy to keep tire splash off it, and it's in the dry shadow of your ass when moving in the rain.
heavymetalthunder
100 W
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2013
- Messages
- 185
I keep my controller mounted to the side of my bike so it will get plenty of ventilation. During the summer in Southern California it can easily get to 100 degrees. I've even had a couple of my 15C lipos get warm which is very unusual during the hot summer days. Working in the RC hobby industry I know it only take a couple of times for the controller to get hot before you will have problems, sometimes even once is enough. Some of the large RC models I work on are easily capable of drawing 140 AMPS of power and some hot liners are easily drawing 500 AMPS or more. Of course we do it only for a short burst, I can only image what will happen if I ran it for 10 minutes straight. Some problems will show up months after you overheat the controller, solder connections gets loose, wires get a little fried, electrical components gets weak.
dogman dan
1 PW
I just don't like that location because there it gets all the mud and whatever splashed on it. Even in the desert, you ride through puddles from sprinklers and such.
On top of a rack on the rear is a very dry place. Near the front of the rack, your ass provides a rain shadow when riding fast into a rain.
Sure, the controller is somewhat sealed, but I like all the plugs to be located on the driest spot on the bike.
On top of a rack on the rear is a very dry place. Near the front of the rack, your ass provides a rain shadow when riding fast into a rain.
Sure, the controller is somewhat sealed, but I like all the plugs to be located on the driest spot on the bike.
Too true, Dogman. and that was the original position of my controller for all the reasons you stated but it's more weight in the back and it's like putting a ski rack on top of a Ferrari. I'm going to try and find or fab a fender though.
FWIW, I preferred the "downtube" location on CrazyBike2, for the main controller (though it's actually on the bottom of a plate that is my central frame, behind the BB, due to the length of the bike), because of the cooling air it gets, but just recently (last week?) the "sealed" switch on the ebikes.ca controller began to fail, presumably from internal corrosion from the rains in the previous week or two, though it'd been dry for a bit before the failure. I haven't taken the switch apart yet to see, just wired around it, but the most likely cause is the splash from the front wheel soaking that end of hte controller, since the front fender doesn't go down that far. (would have to go down to the road surface, almost, to prevent that).
