controller overheats no blown mosfets and selflearning was used

G

Graupe1

10 µW
Joined
Oct 30, 2023
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6
Location
Vienna
i build an 72v 50a e scooter the 1st controller worked, fine until i wantet to plug in a new display and didnt check the wiring it sadly broke. so i bought a new one this one works but gets realy hot. i did use self learning so the hall wires can calibrate, but it still gets hot. do i have to check every possible connectrion to the motor or is it just bustet? i checked for blowen mosfets there are none the motor spins great and does not seem like the usual rought rotation which would normaly come if the phase is incorrect


https://de.aliexpress.com/item/4001053354842.html 72v 3500w version

the motor is currently wired too the same color
 
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Links to each of the parts may help us help you as often there is useful information on the seller pages. If no link is available, good clear pictures of the labelling of all the parts may help us find that info some other way.

Which specific controller is it using now?

Which one did it use before?

Which motor does it use?

Exactly how is the new controller wired to the scooter?
 
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amberwolf said:
Links to each of the parts may help us help you as often there is useful information on the seller pages. If no link is available, good clear pictures of the labelling of all the parts may help us find that info some other way.

Which specific controller is it using now?

Which one did it use before?

Which motor does it use?

Exactly how is the new controller wired to the scooter?
Click to expand...
i did add the controller and motor the controller was the same that i already used but they did some refresh on it before the mosfets were clampt now it is screwed in
 
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Graupe1 said:
i did add the controller and motor the controller was the same that i already used but they did some refresh on it before the mosfets were clampt now it is screwed in
Click to expand...
Since we still need the other info to help, I'll repeat the request:

Links to each of the parts may help us help you as often there is useful information on the seller pages. If no link is available, good clear pictures of the labelling of all the parts may help us find that info some other way.
Which specific controller is it using now?
Which one did it use before?
Which motor does it use?
Exactly how is the new controller wired to the scooter?
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
amberwolf said:
Since we still need the other info to help, I'll repeat the request:

Links to each of the parts may help us help you as often there is useful information on the seller pages. If no link is available, good clear pictures of the labelling of all the parts may help us find that info some other way.
Which specific controller is it using now?
Which one did it use before?
Which motor does it use?
Exactly how is the new controller wired to the scooter?
Click to expand...
so i linked the motor so you can push that link and find out what motor that is the same with the controller
the controller i am using now is the same as the old so i dont understand what you want me to do there
and i wrote that i wired it with the same color
what did i miss ?
 
Last edited:
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Thank you for adding the information.

This diagram from the controller link shows the wiring.

1698717868000.png1698718838944.png

The front one doesn't appear to support a display at all. The rear one has a connector for one, presumably only for the one that comes with them (displays are not generally intercompatible between controllers, and are specific to just that controller, with some exceptions).

Do you have the front controller, or the rear?

Have you wired a display into the new one? If so, how is it wired in?

Does "wired it with the same color" mean that you wired the new controller in by matching the wire colors of the old one? If so, then as long as all those wires go to the same spots inside, and the new controller uses the same firmware and functions for each pad on the board inside, it should then be wired correctly. If any of htose are different, it could be wired incorrectly.


When the self learn was run, did it do anything differently on the new controller than the old?


Most of the time the symptoms you have mean a wrong phase/hall combination, but the self-learn, if it worked correctly, would fix that.

When the display was wired into the old one, how exactly was it connected, and what was the display?

If any of the display wires had battery power on them, and any of the signals from it also did, if they were connected to non-battery voltage signals that could feed back to the 5v supply, it could have damaged the hall sensors in the motor so that the new controller can't properly read them, and you might end up with a problem like what you see.



Note that usually people post the info as a reply in a new post in the thread, or tell us they edited a previous post with the info. Since you just put it in there without telling us specifically that it was edited into that previous post, I didn't look at your old posts for new info. It's very very common for people to ignore the information requests and I have to ask more than once for it, so I did. Also, as of your last reply, you've only noted that you "wired it with the same color" in this last post, not in any of the previous ones (I just checked to be sure). (and it doesn't tell us how it is wired to the rest of the scooter parts other than color)

Remember that we know nothing that you don't tell us about your setup, so everything you leave out is information we don't have that might help us help you with your problem. ;) You know a lot of things about what you've got and what you've done, but we know nothing about it, and can't see it at all. Only you can.



Some info copied from the links for reference in case the links change or go away:
HM Electric Scooter Motors/Engines
HM 60v 1600W Motor 2800W 3000W 3500W Motor engines with 60V/72V 11inch motor wheels for flj electric scooter kick scooter
4 Options, pls choose the one you want Option 1: 60V 1600W : --Use for FLJ T113 scooter; Motor with 45mm Magnets ( use 25A or 37A controller) Option 2: 60V 2800W : --Use for FLJ T112,K3,S8 scooters; Motor with 45mm Magnets ( use 37A or 45A controller) Option 3: 60V 3000W : --Use for FLJ SK3 60V scooter; Motor with 60mm Magnets(use 45A controller) Option 4: 72V 3500W : --Use for FLJ SK3 72V scooter; Motor with 60mm Magnets ( use 45A controller)
1698718659007.png1698718677686.png1698718711792.png





DAMAO 72V 50A electric scooter Controller for 72V Dual motors 6000w 7000W 8000W e scooter Accelerator DAMAO Display​

72V 50A Scooter Controllers/ for Dual Motor 11inch or 13inch scooter/ for72V E2 SK2 SK3 Scooter / DAMAO Display for electric scooter

8 reviews
$9900
$15900





Free Shipping

Free TAX/VAT to EU/US/CA/RU

Fast shipping to EU from Spain

Secure payments
Color：DAMAO 72V Controller B
Quantity

Add to cart
Buy now





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https://www.tumblr.com/widgets/shar...00w-8000w-e-scooter-accelerator-damao-display


DAMAO (ZB) brand Scooter controller PCB for 72V Dual motor scooter
72V 50A Scooter Controllers/ for Dual Motor 11inch or 13inch scooter/ for72V E2 SK2 SK3 Scooter / DAMAO Display for electric scooter
Scooter Controllers LCD Screen with Accelerator Display Suitable for 72V dual motor scooters.







1698718808859.png1698719396614.png1698719417412.png1698719436399.png1698719463571.png1698719617735.png
 
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amberwolf said:
Thank you for adding the information.

This diagram from the controller link shows the wiring.

View attachment 342220View attachment 342226

The front one doesn't appear to support a display at all. The rear one has a connector for one, presumably only for the one that comes with them (displays are not generally intercompatible between controllers, and are specific to just that controller, with some exceptions).

Do you have the front controller, or the rear?

Have you wired a display into the new one? If so, how is it wired in?

Does "wired it with the same color" mean that you wired the new controller in by matching the wire colors of the old one? If so, then as long as all those wires go to the same spots inside, and the new controller uses the same firmware and functions for each pad on the board inside, it should then be wired correctly. If any of htose are different, it could be wired incorrectly.


When the self learn was run, did it do anything differently on the new controller than the old?


Most of the time the symptoms you have mean a wrong phase/hall combination, but the self-learn, if it worked correctly, would fix that.

When the display was wired into the old one, how exactly was it connected, and what was the display?

If any of the display wires had battery power on them, and any of the signals from it also did, if they were connected to non-battery voltage signals that could feed back to the 5v supply, it could have damaged the hall sensors in the motor so that the new controller can't properly read them, and you might end up with a problem like what you see.



Note that usually people post the info as a reply in a new post in the thread, or tell us they edited a previous post with the info. Since you just put it in there without telling us specifically that it was edited into that previous post, I didn't look at your old posts for new info. It's very very common for people to ignore the information requests and I have to ask more than once for it, so I did. Also, as of your last reply, you've only noted that you "wired it with the same color" in this last post, not in any of the previous ones (I just checked to be sure). (and it doesn't tell us how it is wired to the rest of the scooter parts other than color)

Remember that we know nothing that you don't tell us about your setup, so everything you leave out is information we don't have that might help us help you with your problem. ;) You know a lot of things about what you've got and what you've done, but we know nothing about it, and can't see it at all. Only you can.



Some info copied from the links for reference in case the links change or go away:
HM Electric Scooter Motors/Engines
HM 60v 1600W Motor 2800W 3000W 3500W Motor engines with 60V/72V 11inch motor wheels for flj electric scooter kick scooter
4 Options, pls choose the one you want Option 1: 60V 1600W : --Use for FLJ T113 scooter; Motor with 45mm Magnets ( use 25A or 37A controller) Option 2: 60V 2800W : --Use for FLJ T112,K3,S8 scooters; Motor with 45mm Magnets ( use 37A or 45A controller) Option 3: 60V 3000W : --Use for FLJ SK3 60V scooter; Motor with 60mm Magnets(use 45A controller) Option 4: 72V 3500W : --Use for FLJ SK3 72V scooter; Motor with 60mm Magnets ( use 45A controller)
View attachment 342221View attachment 342223View attachment 342224





DAMAO 72V 50A electric scooter Controller for 72V Dual motors 6000w 7000W 8000W e scooter Accelerator DAMAO Display​

72V 50A Scooter Controllers/ for Dual Motor 11inch or 13inch scooter/ for72V E2 SK2 SK3 Scooter / DAMAO Display for electric scooter

8 reviews
$9900
$15900





Free Shipping

Free TAX/VAT to EU/US/CA/RU

Fast shipping to EU from Spain

Secure payments
Color：DAMAO 72V Controller B
Quantity

Add to cart
Buy now




Share
Tweet
Pin it

https://social-plugins.line.me/lineit/share?url=https://flj-scooter.com/products/damao-72v-50a-electric-scooter-controller-for-72-dual-motors-6000w-7000w-8000w-e-scooter-accelerator-damao-display
https://api.whatsapp.com/send/?text=https://flj-scooter.com/products/damao-72v-50a-electric-scooter-controller-for-72-dual-motors-6000w-7000w-8000w-e-scooter-accelerator-damao-display
https://www.tumblr.com/widgets/share/tool?posttype=link&canonicalUrl=https://flj-scooter.com/products/damao-72v-50a-electric-scooter-controller-for-72-dual-motors-6000w-7000w-8000w-e-scooter-accelerator-damao-display


DAMAO (ZB) brand Scooter controller PCB for 72V Dual motor scooter
72V 50A Scooter Controllers/ for Dual Motor 11inch or 13inch scooter/ for72V E2 SK2 SK3 Scooter / DAMAO Display for electric scooter
Scooter Controllers LCD Screen with Accelerator Display Suitable for 72V dual motor scooters.







View attachment 342225View attachment 342227View attachment 342228View attachment 342229View attachment 342230View attachment 342231
Click to expand...
Yeah so I used the controller with the display connector. I also bought the same display from that website. And I wired the motor/ hallsensor cables colour's matching so green to green. Which is identical to the last controller cause I knew if I used self learning it would figure things out. The display is also wired colour's matching. and what I forgot to mension, I programmed the wheel diameter and magnet count into the display. If self learning is plugged in it changes directions like it should and the motor sound like it is running great not hot or anything even at longer 80kmh drives. Only the controller gets so hot it turns of. I am sure that's not important but the battery was build by me 20s 8p 2400mah per cell 80a bms incase that's important. I hope that's all I could be forgetting something incase I did just ask thanks for the help
 
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If the motor doesn't get any warmer than it used to, it is less likely to be a phase/hall order issue.

If it isn't that, then the controller getting that hot means it probably has an actual problem / fault with it.

One common problem is the LVPS that converts battery voltage into 5v, 12v, etc. has the wrong input resistor, so too higih a current flows into it and makes it very very hot.

Another common problem is backwards capacitors, installed with the - stripe on the wrong side. That often causes them to swell up and leak, or even explode, but sometimes they just get really hot.

If it's getting hot inside but not on the outside, it could be the FETs are not correclty mounted to the heatsink bar, or that bar may not be correctly mounted to the case.
 
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amberwolf said:
If the motor doesn't get any warmer than it used to, it is less likely to be a phase/hall order issue.

If it isn't that, then the controller getting that hot means it probably has an actual problem / fault with it.

One common problem is the LVPS that converts battery voltage into 5v, 12v, etc. has the wrong input resistor, so too higih a current flows into it and makes it very very hot.

Another common problem is backwards capacitors, installed with the - stripe on the wrong side. That often causes them to swell up and leak, or even explode, but sometimes they just get really hot.

If it's getting hot inside but not on the outside, it could be the FETs are not correclty mounted to the heatsink bar, or that bar may not be correctly mounted to the case.
Click to expand...
I would be guessing the lvps or the backwarts capacitors. Because the transistors look to be mounted fine an the thermal paste is everywhere and good. How can I check the lvps and the capacitors. And could a wrong display be the reason for that I remembered that for a short time I used another display too get around while waiting for the new and correct display
 
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