Controller P settings

Miatadude

1 mW
Joined
Aug 15, 2024
Messages
11
Location
Franklin, TN
I have bike with S866 display and just got a replacement controller. The new controller has one cable that connects to the motor replacing the previous controller that had 9 wires. When I plug in the new controller, I was advised to change the P20 setting from 1 to 0 which removed an E30 error code. However the pedal assist is erratic and I don't get any speedometer reading? What other P values should I be looking at? Attached is a picture of the replacement controller
1723756115666.png
 
Is your ebike a kit or factory ebike? Generally controller and displays need to be matched, so won't work with controllers of a different manufacturer. The S866 display is one that works with a few controller manufacturers, Brainpower, JN, LITHIUM BATTERY, but the firmware may be different for each, especially since ebike makers may want certain features or some things locked down.
You likely have a geared hub motor, since the stock controller's hall connector has a white wire, which is usually used as a speed sensor, tep sensor, or sometimes multiplexed to support both. Check the plug on the new controller to make sure you have 9 pins, not 8, for the speedo issue. Erratic PAS could either be settings related, or sometimes hardware (if you use a two piece PAS sensor (magnetic disk + sensor, make sure they are aligned with minimal clearance.

E30 doesn't show up in any of the S866 manuals I've seen, but is somewhat universal as a communications issue. Check to see if your display connector is making a good connection and that there aren't any bent pins. This might fix the speedo too.
 
Old controller has a flat six pin plug which attaches to the white wire from the motor connector. Yes, that is typical, showing your motor probably had a speed sensor, In the new controller, that's built into the 9 pin motor connector.

So you are plugging in the old S866 to a new controller. You are sure that the new controller is a Brain-power model compatible with the S866 display?

Many displays use the same pin-outs, so they are able to boot up a foreign controller, but they can't receive the speedometer or battery info. They cannot set PAS levels. Usually they flash a Comm error though. The controller works because it has a default throttle and single PAS when booted. Not saying this is your problem, If it was, E10 and E11 are the comm errors for an S866.

How about walk mode. If the display can enter walk mode, then it's in the same family,

Meanwhile, is P07 set to 1? If you were getting speed on the S(66 originally, then it should still be 1 if I interpret P07 correctly, being the number of pulses the controller must count for one revolution.
 
First of all thank you so much for taking the time to respond. I purchased 3 e-bikes over the last couple of years from Ride Scoozy (White Fat 4" Tire model, Blue SemiFat 3" Tire model and lastly the Red SemiFat 3" Tire model.

The blue and red bikes are same model so has allowed me to swap out parts to test. I had a problem with the blue controller early on and Ride Scoozy sent me a replacement, it is the older style with the adapter wire between controller and motor. I now have 1,800 miles on the blue bike and all is good.

Last year the Red bike stopped working. I suspected the controller so Ride Scoozy sent me a replacement controller which was the older style with the adapter wire between the controller and the motor. I then discovered the black wire on the adapter wire had broken at the connector. I tried to replace and splice with a wire connector but still not working (error code 30). So I bought the replacement controller off of Ride Scoozy's web site that is supposed to fit the Red bike (semifat tire model). It has the built in 9 pin motor connector which fits better into the small space on the bike. I was getting error code 30 when I first plugged it up to the red bike. I then plugged it up to the blue bike to see if I got the same error 30 which I did. Ride Scoozy responded to my lengthy email saying to try and change P code 20 to the other setting (0, it was set to 1). This removed the error code 30 but when I ride the bike while pedaling, it is like the motor is holding it back and is erratic. When I apply only throttle it works OK. I checked P code 7 and it is set to 1. I also plugged the S866 display from the blue bike into the red bike and get same result. It will enter walk mode (PAS 0) if that is what you mean. Also, the speedometer does not register anything in any PAS setting.

I would have thought Ride Scoozy would have advised me when I bought the new controller of any settings I needed to change as this is the only controller they offer on their web site as replacement for this model.

Seems to me it must be another P setting that needs to change? I have requested more from Ride Scoozy but they only respond to emails, no phone support and I have not heard back.

Here are the P-code settings
P SettingValue
P12
P21
P348
P45
P51
P620
P71
P841
P90
P102
P112
P123
P1312
P1415
P1539
P16576
P170
P18100
P190
P201 (changed to 0)
P2170
P22105
P23145
P24190
P25255
P2643
 
btw... I would use the old style replacement controller but the adapter wire has a problem and I can't find a replacement wire that is that short which barely fits in the small compartment on the bike. If you have a source for where I could find it (16")?
Thanks
 
Synopsis correct?
1. Red and Blue controllers were same. Six pin flat connector and three bullets to motor,,
2. Old Red controller broke. Got (free?) replacement, call it Red2. one. Got E30.
Found Broken black wire in harness. Wire nut fix didn't work,
3. Bought new controller with 9 pin connector, call it New1. Error 30 on both bikes,
4. Set P20=1, No E30. Bike runs. Bad PAS. No speedometer with New1,
5. Tried Blue S866 on New1 , same result,

If the motors are both good, there is no reason why the Red motor shouldn't run off the Blue controller. Put the bikes close together and run the Red motor into the Blue bike, See if it spins and registers speed, with the rear wheel off the ground.

I don't see why the wire nut didn't fix the old adapter cable. It's the ground wire for the motor's three Hall sensors and speed sensor, but there's a possibility one of the motor sensors got damaged. That's why I suggest running the Red motor off the Blue. If it spins, the motor should be good.

I used to have an S866, and it didn't have as many P settings or error codes. They must have done a lot of updates, Maybe the old S866 isn't compatible with new controllers. You might put up a link to the new S866 settings so readers can tell what E30 means, and what the new settings are,

Depending on what happens when you run the red motor off the blue bike (hopefully, it doesn't kill the blue), you may want to try Red2 in the blue bike, or you may want to just buy a new S866.
 
See slight corrections:
1. Red and Blue controllers were same. Six pin flat connector and three bullets to motor,,
2. Old Red controller broke. Got free replacement from Ride Scoozy. call it Red2. one. Got E36.
Found Broken black wire in harness. Wire nut fix didn't work,
3. Bought new controller from Ride Scoozy with 9 pin connector, call it New1. Error 30 on both bikes,
4. Set P20=0, No E30. Bike runs. Bad PAS. No speedometer with New1,
5. Tried Blue S866 on New1 , same result,

I already connected the red motor to the blue bike controller, motor runs fine.

I'll check out the S866 displays, maybe just order a new one as they are not that expensive. Any suggestion for vendor(s) buying parts?

Let me know if you have any other thoughts...

And thanks for your help
 
Couple other things:
  1. Does it matter that the New1 controller only has 36V on label? My bike is 48V
  2. Below is the SN for the current red bike S866 display
1723821744896.png
 
Did you post a pic of the free replacement, or was it the exact same model? The 18A 48v controller they sell may be the one you need. I have a feeling the new controller, besides being 36v, is running sensorless because there’s a wiring mismatch for the hall and the speedo pins.
 
Which model bike do you have? The 36v replacement that you bought is inconsistent with the description of the bike it’s supposed to go with (semi fat 48v) and the semi fat appears to have had a display upgrade, so maybe the new replacements only support the new display.
On the synopsis, weren’t there 2 free replacements, and one purchased replacement?
 
Is your S866 the version with the USB charge port?

I saw a YouTube video on the bike from 1 year ago, and highlighted the "new" version of the display with the USB output. If yours doesn't have it, it seems like the company upgraded some hardware somewhere along the line. Maybe the new controllers only work with the new displays?

EDIT: oops, re-posted at the same time.
 
Last edited:
I was traveling yesterday in the car so did not provide all details...
Yes, my S866 display has the USB port so it is the newer model (see below).
I'm thinking about buying a display/controller from aliexpress.com, have you heard of them before? Or do you have a better online site you could recommend. I'm thinking about bypassing Ride Scoozy going forward because I am not really getting any support from them.
Thanks for all your help
1723905369313.png
 
I suggest getting the S866 from Scoozi, because you won't know if the Aliexpress LCD is compatible, now that we know there are different versions with new error codes plus more P-settings.

Glad you ran the red motor off the blue bike. That's the advantage of having the universal 9 pin motor connector. I've done this several times for debugging,
 
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