Controller Wiring Problem

S

Suggs

100 W
Joined
Sep 16, 2015
Messages
229
Location
Yorkshire, UK
Hopefully someone can help....

I tried to figure out the wiring of my controller today but failed! I have a number of e-bike parts (second hand) that are not part of the same set which makes things tricky as a newbie.

Am I right in thinking its a 15fet infineon 48v controller?

The battery wires, phase wires and halls I'm fine with but can't figure out the rest. I couldn't find a live +5V on the board with my multimeter so I suspect there is an on/off switch somewhere that I didn't have hooked up? I certainly don't know what the yellow, green and red (in the middle of the connector) wires are for as they are straight from the battery connections on the board and then the red goes to v+ on the board (vcc-l to be precise).

Board is referenced EB215-A-5
 
This should help.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=7361
 
Thanks, that's a great thread although I can't see any info in relation to the wiring other than the first image. Am I missing something?
 
Switched power should go in near the big power resistors, looks like a thin red wire connects to VCC-L so that should be it. Was probably designed for a handlebar mounted switch or keyswitch so may have includedwires for those cheap battery indication LEDs. Full pack voltage goes in here to be converted to 5V.

Any other wires you aren't sure trace back to the PCB. Google any markings on the PCB like CR, X1, X2, SL, EBS, SP etc to tell you what they are for.

You might want to add some thin wires for the programming header for mods later, they will be the five or six unpopulated holes in a row near the MCU.
 
Thanks Gregory

Gregory said:
looks like a thin red wire connects to VCC-L so that should be it. Was probably designed for a handlebar mounted switch or keyswitch so may have includedwires for those cheap battery indication LEDs. Full pack voltage goes in here to be converted to 5V.
Click to expand...

That thin red wire does indeed connect to VCC-L. The other end of that wire is the middle wire of the connector between the large gauge yellow (full voltage) and large gauge green (ground). You can see this connector clearly on picture 3. What is this for, any ideas? I wondered if this was the switch connector but I'm doubtful due to it being full voltage.

You are also correct about the handlebar mouted switch. I have a couple of these which I tried to wire up to the controller without any luck. I've tested the throttle with an e-bike tester and it works fine.



 
SP is throttle. Check to see if any of those might be for a speed selection switch. One of them is likely for pedal assist. You are likely correct on the brakes. Easy to test that. Just run the throttle and short those two wires and see if it kills the motor.

It looks like now that you have figured out how to power it on and the basics you might not need to worry about the others. The only remaining function you would like to get working is the LED voltage indicator? Otherwise, it's okay to have random and sundry mystery connectors. Not everything has something to plug into a lot of the times. The things that could trip you up might be connectors to activate regen, reverse, self learn, etc. but they are usually pretty clearly labeled on the board and wouldn't seem to be any of those. You might see some of those features jumpered directly on the board though.
 
I haven't managed to power it on yet! That's my main problem.

When I connect the battery to the controller there is no power to the PCB. I think this might be because it needs to be switched on and it’s the switching on I don’t know about. The throttle has a red button switch which I assumed was the on/off switch but not sure where to wire that up to on the connectors. For information, the yellow & brown wire (currently not connected to anything) are the two wires that connect to the red button switch on the throttle.

I also wondered if the connector with the yellow, green & red wire was where an on/off switch should be connected?
 
The two wires (red & black) that I've noted as possibly being for the throttle power indicator go to the following on the pcb board:

Red= vcc-L
Black= VB-
 
VCC-L is not the power indicator that very likely IS the wire for your key switch ignition and how you power on the controller. :)

That may have been an 'on' switch on the handle bars, or the extra plug that goes to the same port could have also been a key switch. Are those wired in series or parallel to the board? (the two Vcc-L wires?)
 
I did wonder that but I put the multimeter on them and it read 0V.

You can see the two red wires to/from vcc-L in the photos below (next to the large gauge green wire near the two large capacitors):



 
You need to connect the Yellow VCC wire and red VCC-L wire on that plug that was likely for the ignition switch to power on the controller! The ground in the plug was likely for a led to show that it was turned on in case you want to do the same or you could use the one on the handle bars that you have the VCC-L and Ground run with the throttle wires.
 
Basically what I am saying is that you would have a problem if you were reading a voltage on VCC-L and the controller was not working. You need to provide battery voltage to that bad boy to turn it on and the rest should make sense.
 
I think I understand now then. If I connect the yellow vcc wire to the red vcc-l would that power the pcb permanently without requiring a switch? This would suit me as I have a xt90 anti spark connector that I can plug/unplug instead of a switch.
 
Yep. You can just attach them together and turn it on and off by connecting the battery power.
 
Rekindling this thread as I plan to get these controllers running soon hopefully.

With 63V large capacitors and 15fet, are these controllers likely to be ok with 14s3p LiPo (circa 58V) on a 1000W old generation Golden Motor DD Hun motor?

Second question.... is there a way to tell what current the controller is limited to without testing it under load?
 
If that's an EB215 board it's likely wired for 30A via the 3 shunts. Running 14s on it is no problem. Here's a photo of one I had about 4-5 years ago.
eb215-1.JPG
 
wesnewell said:
If that's an EB215 board it's likely wired for 30A via the 3 shunts. Running 14s on it is no problem. Here's a photo of one I had about 4-5 years ago.
Click to expand...

Thanks Wesnewell :D

Same board and looks pretty much identical. What voltage and current were you running it on? Is the LVC easy to change?

I also see you have a wire in vb2+ whereas that wire is in vcc on mine.
 
I haven't had that controller in ~4 years, but the link I provided earlier gives all info on these type controllers. I ran it on 14s, 58.8V and didn't have to change the default LVC for everything to work, which was 42V iirc.
 
Well I won't be going far at this rate..... tested the controller today using an "ebike tester" and one of the controller phase/hall wires isn't working. Can't see any visible damage to the board so a bit stumped!

*Edit: I'll test the mofsets tomorrow as I forgot to do that :oops:
 
Not good news.....fets on the yellow are bad. No visual signs of damage though.

Continuity testing had a reading of 2.1 on the negative side and 0 on the positive side.

What are the chances of me replacing these? I'm fairly confident with my soldering.
 
Chances are pretty good you can do it provided there isn't something else going on with the board that will cause them to burn up again. The best tip I can give you is to use identical MOSFETS and clip the legs off so that you can desolder each individually from the board to get the old ones out.
 
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