Cyclone 3000w winter project
- Thread starter Domhelp
- Start date
I am trying to get a Batt man gauge but I can not find a place to order it from here in Canada. Luna is out and the Batt man site does respond to emails. The cycle analyst seems to complex but I may have no choice. There is one on Amazon for about $30. Here is a pic. Does up to 90v and you can pick your shunt I chose the 100amp because the other shunts would delay shipping. The issue with is it's not fully waterproof and will be difficult to mount. I think my battery is a dud. It will not charge past 83v. When I got it it was at 68v. Voltage drops to about 82.4 after resting for a day.
quote=bakaneko post_id=1443710 time=1549427104 user_id=61777]
There is an app for the Cyclone 3kW. I got my kit from SBP and they provided me with instructions to get the app. I will paste it soon it is a bit involved and I just wanted to let you know there is a way to do it. I would also preface I have not used the app yet because IDIOT Apple locked me out of my phone apps. But, supposedly, the throttle is set at SOFT START 5. There is SOFT START 1 to 10 and FAST START 1 to 10 that you can set in the app among other things. I probably dont need to tell u how dangerous FAST START 10 will be given SOFT START 5 is the default. I swear if I accidently go WOT I will flip the bike and really hurt myself. Some people get a power meter (must get 72V compatible; all the 10-25$ ones only go up to 60V) or Cycle Analyst to measure the power. For me, I measure starting resting voltage and then ending to get a sense of the power and efficiency. I would say 2-3mi per V is decent, 1mi per V you are really juicing it, 3-4mi per V you are really pedaling with the bike. Your batteries is probably better than mine though.
You should make some YT videos. Its pretty fun to document the speed and car reactions when you smoke them off the line. Also, then I can challenge you to speed or distance races. Our bikes are similar but you do have 4aH more than me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FaWkrwDkETs&t=570s
[/quote]
quote=bakaneko post_id=1443710 time=1549427104 user_id=61777]
Domhelp said:
There is an app for the Cyclone 3kW. I got my kit from SBP and they provided me with instructions to get the app. I will paste it soon it is a bit involved and I just wanted to let you know there is a way to do it. I would also preface I have not used the app yet because IDIOT Apple locked me out of my phone apps. But, supposedly, the throttle is set at SOFT START 5. There is SOFT START 1 to 10 and FAST START 1 to 10 that you can set in the app among other things. I probably dont need to tell u how dangerous FAST START 10 will be given SOFT START 5 is the default. I swear if I accidently go WOT I will flip the bike and really hurt myself. Some people get a power meter (must get 72V compatible; all the 10-25$ ones only go up to 60V) or Cycle Analyst to measure the power. For me, I measure starting resting voltage and then ending to get a sense of the power and efficiency. I would say 2-3mi per V is decent, 1mi per V you are really juicing it, 3-4mi per V you are really pedaling with the bike. Your batteries is probably better than mine though.
You should make some YT videos. Its pretty fun to document the speed and car reactions when you smoke them off the line. Also, then I can challenge you to speed or distance races. Our bikes are similar but you do have 4aH more than me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FaWkrwDkETs&t=570s
[/quote]
Wait, nvm. I don't see the bluetooth dongle on your controller. Do you have it? It is a black box and saids "Blue tooth" on it or the label. Also, my controller and motor is slightly different I have the newer waterproof design for the wires.
Also, are you using the LCD on the throttle to tell the voltage? That thing is being conservative. It always shows half a volt less than the true voltage from my multimeter. So, that might be the case if you are reading off of that.
I dunno man. You said you road it for an hour and your draw voltage was 68V. I think you ride it harder than me. What was the distance covered? Hard riding for an hour to 68V draw voltage so probably 71-72V resting is pretty good. 10-11V drop for an hour of hard riding is pretty good. Not sure about that voltage loss over night though. I never charge my batteries to full though always like 82-82.5V aroundish max.
Also, are you using the LCD on the throttle to tell the voltage? That thing is being conservative. It always shows half a volt less than the true voltage from my multimeter. So, that might be the case if you are reading off of that.
I dunno man. You said you road it for an hour and your draw voltage was 68V. I think you ride it harder than me. What was the distance covered? Hard riding for an hour to 68V draw voltage so probably 71-72V resting is pretty good. 10-11V drop for an hour of hard riding is pretty good. Not sure about that voltage loss over night though. I never charge my batteries to full though always like 82-82.5V aroundish max.
No I don't have a bluetooth plug. I have a separate volt gauge. I would think a new battery should charge to 84v. As far as performance, it's hard to judge how far I went and how hard I pushed it and until good weather I wont know. Voltage sag is something I am not sure about as it seemed too much but it could have been the weather. The battery performed better the second time around maybe it has to break in. I'm going to post in the battery section and get some opinions on the battery.
Got a cycle analyst now have to wait for good weather to really test the battery. I'm drawing 40 amps at full throttle and voltage about 80v underload with a fresh battery so thats about 3000w. Totally gutless compared to my dual sport motorcycle but I can't ride that where I will be riding this. That why I built it...for some urban fookery :lol: :lol:
What do you think of my hi-tech fire containment system, I designed it myself :lol: I have six inches of sand under the tin foil. In the summer its staying outside with the battery. I wont charge the battery unless I am home and I figure this contraption may give me a chance should this battery from China, probably built by a seven year old whom has a toy set made out of lead, turn into fireworks.
It may be a good quality battery and safe like I was told but I will assume that it's not.
It may be a good quality battery and safe like I was told but I will assume that it's not.
crossbreak
1 MW
why do u buy such crab if u assume that? i dont want a 7 year old to do anything but play (and maybe eat, sleep...) get balls and make it by yourself, all the knowlage you need is spread here :wink:
mebe, needless to say, but make sure chain is tight or you might be walking/pedaling home. i found that if you turn the drive sprocket clockwise as much as you can and then tighten the slack between the drive sprocket and pedal chainring with the tensioner as much as possible this is easiest way to ensure the chain is tightened. i think less than 1/3 inch of overall play on both top and bottom is necessary so you don't have an oh shit moment 15-20 miles from home.
My drive chain has been fine. My rear cassette chain broke. Luckily I was close to home. It was my fault I think. I lengthened it by a few links and I think it separated where I joined the extra links. Once you pop out a pin then press it back in, that pin will become a weak spot. I think if I buy a new chain and leave it or use master links to add links I should be fine. It a good idea to carry a spare chain or at least a chain link tool to mend a broken chain.
Domhelp said:
Only way to get around it is to buy a chain bigger than you need and have a missing/master link to join it after shortening it. So far the special link isn't a weak spot.
If you edit the chain you are foked, and it will mess up your cogs too.
Makes sense thanks.Tommm said:
I am going start over with a new chain. I am going to avoid the smallest gears as I don't really need them and they will really load and stretch the chain. I have come to the conclusion that if you are only going to have one electric bike then a hub motor is the way to go. For high top speeds or high wattage a hub motor is better. Only if you need lots of torque off the line will you benefit from a mid drive. I like my mid drive, the fun factor is high, but I expect it to be less reliable then my hub drive
Domhelp said:
I agree. I think a mid drive really benefits for trail riding or mountain biking where the leverage torque from gears helps and weight distribution is ideal. But, I am leaning towards hub drive for a daily hassle free commute. My problem was that my batteries are either in a 36V or 72V configuration and all the reasonably priced high power (1.5-2kw) hub motors were for 48V systems and I didn't want to monkey around with a new controller connections and compatibility and also lose any LCD/LED displays from the kit.
I kinda hesitate on the torque off the line. I feel like I am going to snap my chain. That is probably where the synergy from the hub motor and rider works, since the hub is single gear as a rider you can put it in a low gear and really help it off the line and not worry about snapping the chain from the power of the motor. Maybe, this is just a grass is greener thing and with more distance riding in the summer I might change my mind. Also, the other plus of the mid drive is that you can actually pedal the thing with little cogging or resistance.
bakaneko said:
I have not looked for a 72v hub motor but I am surprised that they are so rare. If I were using an ebike for commuting on the road I would definitely be using a hub drive. They are basically maintenance free and super reliable. But it's true that it's nice to be able to pedal without power with no extra resistance on the cyclone, that's if you have a chain :lol: I have range anxiety on my scooter because it cannot be pedalled and I have chain anxiety on my cyclone. Problem solved, I'm putting a front hub on my cyclone as a back up :lol:
Domhelp said:
You can do chain drive with a lot of power. I have 72v 80a on the 4kw cyclone. Key is having a single stage reduction. Chainring speed is 700 rpm, and torque stays around 100-150nm. I get a good few hundred km out of a 9 speed chain.
Having multiple stages of reduction just multiplies the torque of the chain. With the correct sized cogs (small front, big rear), the wheel torque will stay the same.
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