Cyclone cutting out

[ryanstev]

I have a Cyclone 2400w mid drive.

I'm running 12S2P LIPOs and my bike cuts out occasionally when accelerating, usually from a stop, but sometimes when I'm already moving fairly fast, but accelerating up a hill.

I always pedal first to get moving before engaging the motor and it's on a low gear, so the motor never struggles.

At first I thought maybe the controller was cutting out because I was drawing too many amps, but one time I saw it happen at 47amps, even though I often use more than that, eg 60amps, when accelerating.
It mainly happens when I accelerate at 'full throttle' so I try not to do that, not as much fun, but yesterday, at the traffic lights, it happened when I was using only partial throttle.

I feel my motor when this happens and it's warm, but probably only 40c at the most. I can comfortably keep my fingers on there.

What should I be looking at that can cause this?

 

[Wattever]

Are you using the original cyclone throttle? if so, what do the leds show when the controller cuts?

 

[Philistine]

I don't know about the 2400W Cyclone, but I had a 1200W cyclone, and those motors have a heat/thermal sensor in it, so that if it got too hot it would cut out, and then start again when it was cooled enough. It would cut out on this same hill everytime, and you had to sit there waiting for it to work again. You can add cooling fins to the motor (like a heatsink) and that makes a big difference.

Cheers, Phil.

 

[ryanstev]

The LEDs are lit up as normal when the motor cuts.

I don't think this is heat related, it's pretty random when it happens and I've had the motor warmer and it's been fine, it's always when I'm accelerating, but I've taken notice of the amps and the one time I saw the amps when it cut it was much lower than other times, 47a when it cut, yet I've had the bike up to 63a in the past.

 

[Wattever]

It could be one of the following:
1. Battery voltage is dropping when you accelerate - you are using 12S? what is the cutoff V of your controller? if its a 48V controller you may have a problem here...
2. Try playing with the black connector (7 pin) from the motor to the controller - if the hall sensors signal is interrupted by a poor connection the motor will stop.
3. Loose power connection (battery to controller) can cause that effect as well.

all the above scenarios will cause the motor to stop, but you will be able to make it turn again immediately - if you need to wait until the motor gets cold to run again its probably the termistor inside the motor.

 

[kentlim26]

how to solved this problem?
1. add 2 more cells prefer is 14cells, becos if there is a low volts happens the controller will cut off itself.
14cells will give u a correct volts 58v, when you go full throttle it will be at least 50volts.
2. if the cut off still happens means controller is in faulty, do you have a spare controller?

 

[ryanstev]

Thanks for the replies.

This happened again this morning about 5 seconds after I started using the motor, freshly charged and around 49v, I turned the controller off and on and use less throttle and it works.
It sounds like it might be a voltage issue, except I don't get this issue later on when my voltage drops to 45v, unless I go full throttle, but maybe the controller senses if I'm trying to use full throttle, but don't have enough volts. (expecting me to have 14S)

I don't remember having this issue when I first got the kit and was just using 12S1P, so maybe it is the connectors, I'll check those again, thanks.

I don't have a spare controller, so can't test that.

I think I had better buy a USB cable from Cyclone so I can check the settings of my controller and see what's happening.

 

[kentlim26]

most controller 48v, the cut off and makes controller turn off power at 42v . sometimes setting is higher cut off could be higher. just try order 2cell x 3 will give you true power and speed. my 60v controller will not work for 16cells lifepo4. when i do full throttle it will cut off . it must run with 16cells lifepo4 and 2cells lipo. so no cut off

 

[ryanstev]

Hmm, it's a bit of a pain a cell in my 7S pack died and I had to make it a 6S and do the same in my other 7S.

I've got two more 6S packs on the way, giving me 6 x 6S packs, I'd need to buy another 3 2S packs to make it 14S, which is a bit too many packs for my liking.

I think I'll get the USB cable and reprogram the controller, it's probably something I'll need for the future anyway.

I also like the idea of going 18S2P, with my existing packs (and the 2 on the way) but apparently my Cyclone won't tolerate much more than 60V.
I have a 100a Kelly controller, so that would be fine.

 

[dnmun]

the cyclone has a thermal breaker inside the motor. the two wires that come down from the controller plate that go into the motor are the thermal switch. you have to unsolder them to get the controller off the end of the motor as i recall.

 

[oigoi]

I had problems with my cyclone cutting out and found it was the BMS being too sensitive to a surge in current. Try running directly from the battery without the bms and see if it stops it happening, just be careful not to discharge the battery too far