Farfle
100 kW
I soldered it back together, but haven't gotten to plug it in yet. will post a report when i do
Dead BMSbattery charger
- Thread starter Farfle
- Start date
dnmun
1 PW
double check before you put the board back in the case and plug it in. usually when things like that break, then other ones close by also break. you may be able to see them now while it is out of the case. and congrats for finding it.
auraslip
10 MW
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2010
- Messages
- 3,535
David, I've been using my bmsbattery.com charger every day for the past 3 months for mobile charging. This means I keep it in my bike pack and unload it where ever I go.
I hate to say it because i've had bad experiences with bmsbattery.com, but ordering a charger from them is going to be my #1 recommendation for bulk charging in my lipo faq.
I hate to say it because i've had bad experiences with bmsbattery.com, but ordering a charger from them is going to be my #1 recommendation for bulk charging in my lipo faq.
dnmun
1 PW
rui_fujino said:I'm currently Looking into what/where is the problem...taking a long time checking all the connections...
mean while I went back to my first charger that came broken, turns out, one of bridge rectifier got yanked off the pcb so I guess all i have to do is to replace them
this to me is how so many things break. the rectifier is screwed to the heat sink and the pcb got jammed so it tore the legs off the rectifier. bet this one works again too. could even use another rectifier if the pin spacing and polarity were the same.
that was how the trace got torn on that headway charger i fixed. that trace was for the source lead on the power mosfet in the front end, that trace was torn because a heat sink had been soldered into the trace, and then the heat sink was jammed into the package and broke that trace on assembly. never tested, arrived dead, that was the old headway charger, which i have fixed a few of too.
mxer
1 kW
I have been using my 600w charger 50v 6A for a while now and It's the perfect companion for my set up and very portable too, carry around with me no prob's.......They have updated there chargers recently, Glueing bit's down for security....I love my BMS charger 
CanadianWinters
100 W
Hi guys,
I just plugged in and killed my 36v 5A BMSBattery charger. It was the first time I plugged it in. All the connections were correct but I made the mistake (I think) to connect the battery first and the AC after. As a result there was a loud "pop" and a bright spark coming from the AC plug side of the charger.
I opended it and looks like only the rectifier bridge is damaged.
A question for you guys:
The code of the rectifier bridge is GBU808 "8.0A GLASS PASSIVATED BRIDGE RECTIFIER". I don't have it here at the moment but I have a PBU605 which is a 6.0A Bridge rectifier, can I use that instead? I would only use it temporary, in the meantime I can order the original part.
Thanks in advance 8)
S.
I just plugged in and killed my 36v 5A BMSBattery charger. It was the first time I plugged it in. All the connections were correct but I made the mistake (I think) to connect the battery first and the AC after. As a result there was a loud "pop" and a bright spark coming from the AC plug side of the charger.
I opended it and looks like only the rectifier bridge is damaged.
A question for you guys:
The code of the rectifier bridge is GBU808 "8.0A GLASS PASSIVATED BRIDGE RECTIFIER". I don't have it here at the moment but I have a PBU605 which is a 6.0A Bridge rectifier, can I use that instead? I would only use it temporary, in the meantime I can order the original part.
Thanks in advance 8)
S.
dnmun
1 PW
the yellow green wire was loose inside? or did you unscrew it from the ground?
plugging the battery into the back end should not damage the front end unless the schottky diode failed. did you reverse polarity when you plugged it in or was that correct?
plugging the battery into the back end should not damage the front end unless the schottky diode failed. did you reverse polarity when you plugged it in or was that correct?
CanadianWinters
100 W
dnmun said:
The yellow wire was connected to the charger case. I double checked polarities before and after the accident, and everything was right. I don't see any other component burnt, I have no idea why this happened
.
rui_fujino
1 kW
i recently got a new 600w BMSBattery charger and from my experience of 3other ones I have. their product is getting little better and components are upgraded too!
also PCB is nice and clean compared to other 600w chargers
PS: if you complain to web master you he will sort you out with new charger without having have to spend much $$$
(I got mine for free twice! tho it broke 3timess.....)
also PCB is nice and clean compared to other 600w chargers
PS: if you complain to web master you he will sort you out with new charger without having have to spend much $$$
(I got mine for free twice! tho it broke 3timess.....)
dnmun
1 PW
why not see if they will replace the charger if that was your first plug in. not sure how it happened but tell them the up and up, and how it happened, and ask them if they will refund part of the purchase cost if you can fix it yourself with another bridge. but i am not sure how it got voltage to the front end unless there was a voltage spike when you plugged in the battery and that spike was too much for the schottky and that leakage current went back through the transformer and created the spike that ate up the rectifier. my guess.
CanadianWinters
100 W
I repaired the charger successfully changing the blown rectifier bridge with a PBU605 bridge. Also the AC side fuse blown so I changed it as well.
Now it's been charging for about one hour and no problems. I hope it will last!!
I also measured the Amp out and it's 5.06, voltage is 41.9 which looks pretty good to me!
8)
Now it's been charging for about one hour and no problems. I hope it will last!!
I also measured the Amp out and it's 5.06, voltage is 41.9 which looks pretty good to me!
8)
dnmun
1 PW
you da man!
you gonna just leave that bridge there and see if it blows up too?
so the lesson of this is not to plug the battery in first.
plug the charger in first so the output is already at the high voltage when the battery is plugged in.
you gonna just leave that bridge there and see if it blows up too?
so the lesson of this is not to plug the battery in first.
plug the charger in first so the output is already at the high voltage when the battery is plugged in.
CanadianWinters
100 W
dnmun said:
I am going to order the original bridge, and keep things as they are, let's see how this charger behaves.
Question (I don't have an electronic background): if I put a blocking diode on the positive wire to the battery shouldn't it prevent what happened to my charger or at least minimize the risk? I know there will be a voltage drop in the output but it will be not relevant in my specific case.
Thanks dnmun for the support!
8)
captain387
100 W
What to do?, what to do?
See step 5
http://www.avdweb.nl/solar-bike/electronics/portable-lightweight-lifepo4-ebike-battery-charger-800g.html
See step 5
http://www.avdweb.nl/solar-bike/electronics/portable-lightweight-lifepo4-ebike-battery-charger-800g.html
rui_fujino
1 kW
i think i've always connected to AC then battery charger.. 
CanadianWinters
100 W
captain387 said:
Hi!
Great mod on your charger!! For the anti-spark you are using a circuit with a mosfet because is more efficient than a blocking diode and a capacitor, right?
My charger is the 180W version, I have completed successfully the first charge
. I still don't understand why the rectifier bridge went up in smoke, maybe it was defective (strange)?S.
dnmun
1 PW
the rectifier was exposed to very high voltage i bet. the transformer would have taken the current pulse coming through the schottky from the back end and amplified the voltage (instead of 1/4 reduction it was 4X voltage), and i bet the current avalancheing through the diode in the rectifier just burned it up. my guess.
lesson learned, plug the battery in after the charger has been turned on.
lesson learned, plug the battery in after the charger has been turned on.
alsmith
100 kW
I'm pleased I ordered 2 of the BMSbattery chargers, only one is working now. I've just emailed them......
dnmun
1 PW
what is wrong with the one that doesn't work? since you have 2 identical chargers it should make it easy to compare voltages through the charger from front to back and find the bad component.
can you take pictures inside where the line cord connects, and check the voltages from the line cord through the rectifier bridge onto the input capacitor. that will be high voltage DC, not AC, after it goes through the bridge.
can you take pictures inside where the line cord connects, and check the voltages from the line cord through the rectifier bridge onto the input capacitor. that will be high voltage DC, not AC, after it goes through the bridge.
alsmith
100 kW
I was taking it apart while you were typing! 2 immediate problems easily seen:
the track on the top of the board might be damaged/fused
the torroid connections show signs of overheating
This is the charger with the burned wire from the fuse.
the track on the top of the board might be damaged/fused
the torroid connections show signs of overheating
This is the charger with the burned wire from the fuse.
dnmun
1 PW
looks like GC's toroid, so i wonder if this is from the output cap being shorted and the toroid takes so much current that it over heats and the contact of the toroid wire to the trace is where the heat is highest. that diode D9 is for reverse polarity protection i think.
can you measure the resistance across the cap? put your ohmeter on the high range, measure resistance one direction, it should be changing, then immediately switch the probes, and it should be changing in the opposite direction. start with the red probe on the plus side of the cap. if it is shorted it should show up right away. you may have to unsolder the diode since it will be forward biased when you reverse the probes. but check it to see if the cap is shorted. or maybe even the traces on the other side out to where the wires are soldered onto the pcb.
can you measure the resistance across the cap? put your ohmeter on the high range, measure resistance one direction, it should be changing, then immediately switch the probes, and it should be changing in the opposite direction. start with the red probe on the plus side of the cap. if it is shorted it should show up right away. you may have to unsolder the diode since it will be forward biased when you reverse the probes. but check it to see if the cap is shorted. or maybe even the traces on the other side out to where the wires are soldered onto the pcb.
dnmun
1 PW
maybe the toroid is used as the shunt to provide the feedback voltage to the front end. maybe it is not there as an electrical filter at all. U3 gate seems to be connected to the high side of the toroid too. and the drain to the ground on the cap. maybe that is some kinda output polarity protection.
alsmith
100 kW
resistance climbs one way, drops the other (diode not removed).
The track shows continuity from the toroid to the other end of the track where it connects to the centre pin of a double diode package FMX32S.
This is all with no components removed. I'll remove the toroid and diode tomorrow and check again when I know that one end goes nowhere.
btw, charger was never connected the wrong way round.
The track shows continuity from the toroid to the other end of the track where it connects to the centre pin of a double diode package FMX32S.
This is all with no components removed. I'll remove the toroid and diode tomorrow and check again when I know that one end goes nowhere.
btw, charger was never connected the wrong way round.
recumbent
100 kW
dnmun said:
Okay, so we should plug into AC, then turn it on, and then plug into our battery pack. Because i also have an EMS600 that sparks when plugged in, but never turned on the charger before the battery was attached. Here goes...
Thanks for all the great info you guys.
