RVD
1 kW
Spacey, if your fit is that tight what will you do if you get a flat tire? Can you get the wheel off on the road?
DoctorBass Torque Arm Installation
- Thread starter RVD
- Start date
Spacey
100 kW
I couldn't get the wheel off without a large spanner and a hammer to encourage the axle out of the torque arm.....not to hard to do now.
I fit the tyre with puncture proof slime that is meant for car tyres so it seals up any punctures instantly. I don't get punctures anymore.
I fit the tyre with puncture proof slime that is meant for car tyres so it seals up any punctures instantly. I don't get punctures anymore.
Philistine
100 kW
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2010
- Messages
- 1,736
Hey Spacey, your plan withe red ignition wire will be fine. That is what I do. The power cabling stays set up at all times, and there is just a small low amp switch on the ignition wire. The amount of drain from leaving it like that is tiny. Like you my ebikes are sole form of transport, so ride mine pretty much everyday, but even when I leave my Borg for a few days like that, I don't notice any voltage drop on the battery. I would only disconnect the power leads/battery if i was leaving it for a few weeks. My understanding is the power drain is something like 50mah a day if that (I read that somewhere, don't know if it is true, but I don't notice any power drop over days without use).
I did the same thing with the bottom part of the cover, I actually have that held on by a strap that I tighten and loosen to pop off that cover, and then I charge down there.
I hear your pain on the Hx axle, that was why I think I span my Hx in the first place, I don't think it would have happened with any other hub axle, the Hx axles are almost round they have that little flat edge.
I did the same thing with the bottom part of the cover, I actually have that held on by a strap that I tighten and loosen to pop off that cover, and then I charge down there.
I hear your pain on the Hx axle, that was why I think I span my Hx in the first place, I don't think it would have happened with any other hub axle, the Hx axles are almost round they have that little flat edge.
RVD
1 kW
i basically built my own switch with an ignition wire.
my controller has 2 red and 1 black to connect to the battery. i am using a small block that takes up to 2 reds and 2 blacks and connects them to up to 2 reds and 2 blacks.
so i have 2 reds and 1 black plugged in from the controller. i plug in 1 black from the battery, then plug in 1 red precharge resistor wire, then plug in 1 more red wire.
one of the 2 reds from the controller is hooked up to a switch type thing that i made. pull it out and there's no current going through so the bike is off. plug it in and current travels and i'm good.
i have both lifepo4 and lipo. i mostly use lifepo4 to commute back/forth from work since it's safe and i don't worry about much...just plug it in for charging.
however, for lipo i am much more careful. i store my lipo in a fireproof safe in my garage and whenever i need it i pull out lipo and hook it up. i never leave lipo on the bike overnight, etc.
is it pretty safe to do that? you guys seem to be using lipo and leaving it permanently attached to your bike...
my controller has 2 red and 1 black to connect to the battery. i am using a small block that takes up to 2 reds and 2 blacks and connects them to up to 2 reds and 2 blacks.
so i have 2 reds and 1 black plugged in from the controller. i plug in 1 black from the battery, then plug in 1 red precharge resistor wire, then plug in 1 more red wire.
one of the 2 reds from the controller is hooked up to a switch type thing that i made. pull it out and there's no current going through so the bike is off. plug it in and current travels and i'm good.
i have both lifepo4 and lipo. i mostly use lifepo4 to commute back/forth from work since it's safe and i don't worry about much...just plug it in for charging.
however, for lipo i am much more careful. i store my lipo in a fireproof safe in my garage and whenever i need it i pull out lipo and hook it up. i never leave lipo on the bike overnight, etc.
is it pretty safe to do that? you guys seem to be using lipo and leaving it permanently attached to your bike...
wojtek
100 kW
Spacey said:
Spacey, which torque arm did you use? Doc has 2 - one is tighter, fits HS3540 perfectly, another one is slighly wider , axle is a bit loose within...
I was thinking to use the tighter one for better fit and no movement of axle. But if it is so difficult to align both sides of the dropouts, the tighter one doesn't give any margin for error.
But im thinking to install them with the wheel on. and test the alignment by take the wheel out and put it in, with the dropouts in but not cured yet...
Philistine
100 kW
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2010
- Messages
- 1,736
RVD - My lipo permanently resides inside my Greyborg (ie within the plastic canopy). I have never had a single problem with Lipo, as I never break the golden rules re voltage max and minimum (well that's not true, I have overdischarged and puffed packs, but I threw them out, and never used them again). I personally think the dangers of lipo are overstated if you observe the golden rules.
Re setting the glue with the hub motor in place, I was thinking about putting condoms over the axles to guard against the epoxy bonding the axle in, but maybe the fit is too tight it will break the condom (that wasn't meant in the inuendo way it sounded). I have the "1st gen" torque plate, and a HS35, so the fit is tight as a nun's nasty.
Re setting the glue with the hub motor in place, I was thinking about putting condoms over the axles to guard against the epoxy bonding the axle in, but maybe the fit is too tight it will break the condom (that wasn't meant in the inuendo way it sounded). I have the "1st gen" torque plate, and a HS35, so the fit is tight as a nun's nasty.
Spacey
100 kW
I had a bit of a mishap with the axle on the way home yesterday with my Greyborg. The disc adapter that comes with the Greyborg got bent all out of place when I applied the new rear break...I also forgot to do up the left axle bolt and the wheel had moved back 5 mm. The disc break had bent the brake adaptor all out of shape. Back to no brake for now 
But.... the torque arm does not shift a bit, just wish the HS3540 had more meat on the axle so the torque arm can do its job.
But.... the torque arm does not shift a bit, just wish the HS3540 had more meat on the axle so the torque arm can do its job.
Philistine
100 kW
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2010
- Messages
- 1,736
Hey Spacey I did the same thing with my rear brake adaptor, I forgot to attach the straight piece to the frame, then slammed on the rear brake, causing the adaptor plates to slam intot he frame bending the straight piece all of out shape. To replace that straight piece I just took a cheap chinese spanner (ie, using the handle as a cheap source for a straight piece of steele), and cut it to the right length, then drilled holes through both ends, sweet as again.
RVD
1 kW
Philistine said:
i've been really conservative with lipo by charging only to 4.10v and discharging to 3.7v. but just reading about random accidents every now and then (fetcher, john, lyen, etc.) gets me spooked. i'm still not 100% comfortable with it...especially because i do stupid stuff every now and then (like hook up lipo in series with the balance plugs on and wonder why the balance plugs burn off and charge plugs blow...).
so maybe it's just me not trusting myself.
regarding the torque arms, i think doctorsbass has had 3 sets...1st set was the tightest. 2nd set is what most of us probably have. 3rd set is his newest that he just got...
keysersoze310
1 W
So I installed Doctorbass's awesome torque arms on my bike and did my best to eyeball the alignment. Turns out I didn't do so great and the torque arms got installed misaligned just enough to be a problem. At first I couldn't even get my motor axle into the dropouts, so I filed the torque arm down for a while and now it kinda fits. Here's a pic:
It's hard to tell in the pic, but the the top left of the motor axle is up against the torque arm, but the bottom left is not, the axle is a bit twisted. Also, the axle is not dropping into the dropouts all the way, there's a couple mm of space at the bottom. Is this anything to be concerned about? Think it will cause any problems in the future? The wheel looks aligned otherwise, just the dropout appears to be the issue. Maybe this will cause problems with regen braking? Thanks in advance!
It's hard to tell in the pic, but the the top left of the motor axle is up against the torque arm, but the bottom left is not, the axle is a bit twisted. Also, the axle is not dropping into the dropouts all the way, there's a couple mm of space at the bottom. Is this anything to be concerned about? Think it will cause any problems in the future? The wheel looks aligned otherwise, just the dropout appears to be the issue. Maybe this will cause problems with regen braking? Thanks in advance!
Doctorbass
100 GW
keysersoze310 said:
Any thight and static torque arm must have a precise alignment. Eyes is just not enough that's why in teh thread i suggest using a flatbar against both torquer arm slit. It is impossible to have a static torque arm desing that is thight and that dont require precise alingment. This is crusial.
In some case for low power ( under 3kW or so) it might be the easier to just use a torque arm on one side only.
By using a file to enlarge the torque arm, you must pay attention to not remove too much material.
If you was not able to the the axel in the drop out, you must examine if it is because of the misalignment of both T-A or because your axel is a bit out of tolerance and is thicker than the torque arm. To do that, i suggest to try to insert the axel to one torque arm BEFORE to assemble them on your actual dropout. Than if it is needed, file them until they fit thight enough and the axel can enter easy.
Remember the material of these torque arm is not soft!.. it will not adapt his shape to the edge of your axel.. and is not compressible.. it's like ceramic! and will not deform to allow the axel to enter... so they must be aligned the best as you can.
Please everyone, read the ultimate torque arm thread thread before to assemble them so you shold have all good info for the assembly :wink:
Doc
Hugues
1 kW
keysersoze310 said:
I glued mine with the axle in place. I wrapped a thick plastic around the axle so the glue does not come into contact with it, put the bike upside down so the extra glue does not drip towards the axle but the other way. Voilà ! Then i did the second plate the same way, always to be sure the axle is properly centered within the groove of the torque plate. Easy to do this way. Just to be sure the glue does not find its way on the axle.
I did 2 pairs with this method. No problems.
Doc's torque plate's rock ! + Nord lock = bullet proof !
rojitor
100 kW
Your method makes sense to me hugues, i will do it like you.
nonlineartom
1 kW
I've failed twice to install my torque arms, the first time I used Aryldite epoxy resin, the slowest curing, strongest rated epoxy I could get my hands on. I protected the axle with masking tape and installed them on the frame (trike) and made sure they were a tight fit by tightening the nuts a litle bit, both areas had been sanded to be clear of paint or any rust. Left it for a week and then installed the motor properly, cranked down the axle nuts and the expoxy cracked almost straight away when put under the sheer load of the nut tightening against it, I'd imagine the compression didn't help either.
Second attempt I used Expoxy putty. Instant steel it''s sometimes called. Again prepped both sides and installed, this time I was able to fill aroind the torque plate as well for extra support and general engulf the area in the epoxy. A few miles into the ride the axle jumped out of the dropouts because I hadn't tightened the nuts enough, the expoxy shattered like glass and broke apart like pottery. I was able to chisel it all off with a hammer so I'm back to square one now. Tempted to just weld them on as it's steel on steel. Is the 3M stuff really the only right thing to use?
Tom
Second attempt I used Expoxy putty. Instant steel it''s sometimes called. Again prepped both sides and installed, this time I was able to fill aroind the torque plate as well for extra support and general engulf the area in the epoxy. A few miles into the ride the axle jumped out of the dropouts because I hadn't tightened the nuts enough, the expoxy shattered like glass and broke apart like pottery. I was able to chisel it all off with a hammer so I'm back to square one now. Tempted to just weld them on as it's steel on steel. Is the 3M stuff really the only right thing to use?
Tom
Hugues
1 kW
nonlineartom said:
i don't know if it's the only one but it sure holds up. I've cured them at 50C for a few hours then the next day you're GO. Never had any problems, no cracks.
I also used that 3M stuff to glue my freewheel to my hub ( i know it's crazy but too long too explain) and it holds up very well. I placed the hub in the oven at 70C for 2 hours, my wife was very happy
. There is a lot of torque on this setup between hub and freewheel, but it's holding on.that 3M stuff simply rocks !
