Dual ping chargers - fuse issues.

Any source of 40-44v will get your batterys to at least stop having the bms tripped, so you can test that. Just don't snooze with a big 36v power supply and overdo it.

You can't overcharge with a 36v sla scooter charger, it will be set to about 2v less than pings. I used em to charge my first ping for a year.

Just one of these cheapies, to have as an emergency spare, I wouldn't buy two.
 
Cargo_Tom said:
Edit: I might be able to get one of these desktop chargers at wholesale price. http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/070a/0900766b8070af54.pdf I wonder if I could bulk charge the two pings using a single of these chargers?

Just one of the 38v-50v at 6A charge would allow you to charge each pack one at a time. You could charge both packs separately in less than 6hrs total time (less than 3hrs each) assuming you used the normal 16Ah from each pack. Only use 16Ah to extend maximum lifespan of pack & avoid tripping the BMS too. ;)

Also, these are current limited, so all you have to do is adjust the voltage. These are nice, but you would need two for charging in less than 3hrs through each battery connector you have now. This is a great solution if you can get it for the price you want to pay. Good find for you! :D
 
uncle tom, i think you have the TO-220 packages on your charger.

this is a part with a bigger package that i suspect will handle the current better.

called TO-3P package

cheap

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-FJA13009TU-J13009-E13009L-NEW-from-Fairchild-TO-3P-/280939271224?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item4169491438#ht_1606wt_877
 
deVries said:
Cargo_Tom said:
Edit: I might be able to get one of these desktop chargers at wholesale price. http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/070a/0900766b8070af54.pdf I wonder if I could bulk charge the two pings using a single of these chargers?
This is a great solution if you can get it for the price you want to pay. Good find for you! :D

Ping says that the BMS can handle 5A, so the 5.2A version might be too much. The 38-50v, 4A version might be the ticket then.
But yeah. Current limited is the way to go for ease of mind.

dnmun said:
uncle tom, i think you have the TO-220 packages on your charger.

this is a part with a bigger package that i suspect will handle the current better.

called TO-3P package

Thank you sir, I will try to source them locally. If possible I will get my mitts on them in just a couple of days.

In other news, Ping is sending replacement chargers. Depending on how the repair pans out I might be swimming in spares :D
 
i think they will cost about $5 each locally.

wait and see what ping does, i may buy a package of those and see if they can be of use to people who use these chargers, including you, but i just saw that so i posted the link.

they gotta be real, the guy is so sincere.
 
that will be neat if you can install these bigger transistors to see if that solves the problem.

i ordered some too because i think this may crop up again.

eventually i will find my camera and go through serial connection of the two 36V packs that will be permanently connected, but charged separately by the two chargers.

i am trying to figure how to use the HVC signal to cut off the output mosfets so regen will work through the output instead of the charging leads as ping shows in his diagram.
 
Cargo_Tom said:
TO-3Ps will be on hand tomorrow and we are aiming for repairs over the weekend :)

Good to see you attempt to do repairs. Take pics & document on ES. :D

It might help the other guy that just fried his Ping charger by plugging it in. :lol:
 
deVries said:
Take pics & document on ES. :D
It might help the other guy that just fried his Ping charger by plugging it in. :lol:
Thumbs up on the repair! He may be following this already, but shoot an ES link to Ping so he can take appropriate action at his end to upgrade the product if this repair resolves the issue.
 
dnmun said:
ping does not manufacture the kingpan chargers. there is nothing he can do about the charger.
I am aware that he does not produce the chargers. That does not mean that he cannot request a customization of his order from the vendor to provide a more robust solution. I do not presuppose to speak for what he can and cannot do or to characterize his relationship with the vendor or the vendor's willingness to provide an upgraded product either on special order or as an general product improvement.

Ping has a long history of providing quality products and dropping him a note so that he is aware of a beneficial technical resolution to this issue will give him an opportunity to pursue this matter as he sees fit.
 
Update: Well, we hit a snag today. The TO-3P package is Gigantic compared to the stock transistors. It will still fit in the casing - but it is a tight squeeze. The pins are farther apart and will have to be bent quite a bit to fit the traces in the circuit board and the holes drilled out to accept the beefier pins. The main hiccup is that the stock isolation pads are much too small, and will need to be scaled up to match the larger area of the transistor. Furthermore the case anchoring bolt will need to be moved and the anchoring brace might need to be replaced with something bigger.

Thusly challenged, my family connection decided to whisk away the chargers to his old company, where he has access to a proper electronics workspace and additional parts.

-Tom
 
all right, that is great.

i knew they were huge, he is the man with a plan.

bending the legs to get them into the holes is ok, i figured they would be kinda fanned out a little leaning to each side under the clamp.
 
What did Li Ping say about all this? Has he been contacted? Generally he's been pretty good at providing at least parts to make repairs, or sending another charger or bms.

He could be aware that a batch of his chargers had a high defect rate, and if not, needs to be made aware if he does.
 
I figured he would. 8) If you can fix your old ones, you have some nice spares then. Bummer to have to wait now, when you are so close to the end of a long process though.
 
Well, no luck.

The damaged transistors got replaced and all isolation pads + thermal paste for the rest of the transistors got replaced for good measure. All fuses also got swapped out.

Output voltage = zero. No LEDs turn on either. It seems that blown transistors were not the only problem. Best guess is that the switchmode controls at the base end of the affected transistors died as well. My helper wont embark on further diagnostics/repairs without a curcuit diagram, so we are stuck here :/

As ping wont be shipping replacements out until monday morning, and I have a thermodynamics exam on thursday, I think I'll put this thing on the back burner for a week, and just purchase something to get me by in the meantime. The 5.2Amp benchtop supply will run me a hundred bucks, but seems to be the best long term solution. With varable output it can be applied to other projects as well.

Cheers
-T
 
too bad, so much heat was there for a reason. not sure what that is.

there is a link to the circuit diagram in the BMS battery charger repair thread. basically the same charger.

here is a link to the website with the reverse engineered schematic.

http://www.avdweb.nl/solar-bike/electronics/portable-lightweight-lifepo4-ebike-battery-charger-800g.html

you can find a small 36V SLA charger to use too. that would be cheaper, and when it is off ebay you don't have to drive to pick one up since they deliver to your house.
 
Cheers for that. Hopefully I can make use of it when I take power electronics classes later on. (God that makes me sound so young. I already have a career in Anthropology, but decided to switch to engineering after I started a family)

Meanwhile I've ordered this: http://dk.rs-online.com/web/p/stromforsyning-bordmodel/5388995/

Current limited, overload protected, 42-58v, allows parallel recharging out of the box, and is from a reputable german power electronics manufacturer.

Should the new ping chargers die I will have a rock solid backup.
 
ok, i now have done the same thing. i got a dead 48V3Akingpan charger which has that thyrister thingy attaches to the cover. it is there to switch off one phase of the input voltage when attached to the 240V line and use the ground lead as the neutral.

but i blew this one when it was plugged into 120V so i am not sure what to make of this yet, but i blew both of those big NPN switching transistors in the front end on the oscillator circuit.

i wonder if you have a blown fuse in your charger too and that is why the thing does not power up now, so check your fuse in the charger too.

i do not have any of the J13009 yet so i am gonna order some. but in the meanwhile i am gonna see if i can understand what should be happening on the front end to cause the switching transistors to blow up.

i unsoldered the thyrister thingy on another charger i have that i know works. but it is set up for 110-240 on the label, which is why it has the thyrister daughter board thingy attached to the lid.

i also have another kingpan charger that is set up for 120V, and it does not have the thyrister daughter board at all. i can see where there is a jumper across the two traces where the red wires come down from the thyrister daughter board. if i can figure it out, i am gonna see if i can rewire the charger so it will be set up to run on 240 without the daughter board, on this charger i have that works and i don't wanna kill it too so i am gonna spend some time learning what it is all about first.

i don't wanna experiment with the big high power J13009 transisters because they are expensive so i am gonna order some more regular TO-220 J13009 parts and use them when i can get to that point i think it will work, then blow them up.

also i am gonna order more fuses. gonna have to buy a 100ct box to get a few to use. then sell the others to people who have these chargers so they can have spares.

this is turning into a big project. involuntary learning. but this is how i gotta go to learn this stuff.

i have another kingpan 48V3A charger that also doesn't work but it has voltage to the NPN switching transistors. i measured 384V on the oscillator so far but have not worked on it more and will also try to figure out why it doesn't push current.

but check your fuse in the charger to see if that is why your repaired charger is not active now.
 
Nifty experiment :)

The charger end 10A fuse is not it I'm afraid. Both of these have been fine for me throughout my ordeal, As I made sure to check both fuses whenever one blew. I only blow the AC end 6A fuse on mine :/

Cheers
-T
 
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