E-S Phasor Electric Bike Owners

[Rix]

Rix
I have the heavy duty batteries. On the battery itself it lists 110 amp. I had to wait 2 months for those cause HPC is not selling them anymore and they ordered them just for me. I am still waiting to hear back from them and Methods, so now I'm trying to learn how to use the v3 cycle analyst to check and possibly change the amp setting. I never used the v3 before and right now have no idea how to work anything on it

Scratch, I haven't used the V3 either, but its got to be under menu settings I would think. If you get it figured out, drop your amps to say 70 or so and try it there. If you bike works properly than you know the cells are not rated for 110 ah. If not, then it could be BMS or bad cells or combo of. I am not very smart on batteries, but to a tech, these things will help narrow down what the problem could be if your are diagnosing over the phone or email.

rick

 

[mattrb]

Hi, my 90v, 13ah, 40amps phasor is cutting out after 5-7 minutes. My vented motor is barely warm. I am using CAv3. Any tips, i have the unofficial manual and I'm without a solution.

 

[pendragon8000]

Hi, my 90v, 13ah, 40amps phasor is cutting out after 5-7 minutes. My vented motor is barely warm. I am using CAv3. Any tips, i have the unofficial manual and I'm without a solution.

In battery setup check low voltage cut off.
In temperature sensor check temperature limits . 80°c -120°c for soft or 100-120 hard limit.
Good luck pm me if you want more help. Although I'm no expert

 

[Rix]

Scratch and Mattrb, both of you guys are have the HPC 90V 13ah batteries. You both are describing very similar problems. If you haven't done so, contact HPC. Something isn't right. Could be an LVC issue, so check that as Pendragon suggested. I don't know what the LVC should be set at for those LI ION Cobalt batteries you guys are running, but it should be about 3 volts above whatever the BMS cuts power at completely. I wish I knew more about the electrics, if there is nothing wrong with your controllers and CAV3, then gut instinct is the BMS or battery itself. I think the tell tale way to narrow down the problem is to turn your CA amps limit way down to say 30 amps and see if you batteries cut out. If they dont' then it's got to be the battery/BMS engaging at higher amp settings. Either way, let me know, I was thinking about getting the 90 Volt setup up my bomber when my current one takes a dump. But if these kind of problems keep occurring, I will just got to 22s LIPO.

Korpin, I think you said a while back you were running the HPC 90V 13ah battery, if so, had any issue with it? I remember you melted some phase wires so you turned your CA down to 30amps. DId you ever try your bike set at max amps?

Rick

 

[Insider]

Ah... my build delayed

Accomplished assembling the bike yet without batteries inside. Had a 35 kilometers trip on it last week. The bike feels really meaty!!!

I'm going to finish in a few days.

Here are few photos of my almost complete Phasor on Moscow grass:


View attachment 1


Total weight of not-yet-electric Phasor is 23,5kg (51lbs)

 

[Rodney64]

Insider your bikes looking good, not sure if its the same blue as mine but looks really nice with the side panels.

Looking forward to when its completed. Any chance of some video.

 

[Rix]

Insider your bikes looking good, not sure if its the same blue as mine but looks really nice with the side panels.

Looking forward to when its completed. Any chance of some video.

Yes Insider, what Rodney said.

 

[pendragon8000]

Ah... my build delayed

Accomplished assembling the bike yet without batteries inside. Had a 35 kilometers trip on it last week. The bike feels really meaty!!!

I'm going to finish in a few days.

Here are few photos of my almost complete Phasor on Moscow grass:
View attachment 3
View attachment 2
View attachment 1


Total weight of not-yet-electric Phasor is 23,5kg (51lbs)

I'm running that same tyre combo on my 6kw monster. IMO its really good, solid back tyre than can understeer when rerquired but not too slippery, and grippy front for braking and steering in lose surface. (hook worm rear, crazy bob front)

 

[Scratch1973]

Rix
I'm pretty sure the problem with my battery is the bms. I have tested it a little more and it keeps doing the same thing. After riding for a few minutes the motor will just stop, and the battery voltage will just drop from 90 volts to about 14 volts . It will stay that way even if I shut everything off and turn it back on. My battery consists of 2 individual blocks each being 45 volts each, when I check the voltage of each battery one will read 45 volts and the other comes back with a negative 31 volts. That is not a mistake. I'm actually reading a negative voltage off one of the batteries. As soon as I disconnect the battery from the controller and reconnect it everything goes back to 90 volts. While I was testing the bike out I was not beating on it and did not go over 30amps and nothing got hot. I talked with HPC and I'm in the process of sending the batteries back so they could look at them, they believe there definitely is a problem either the bms or the battery itself is bad and after doing the testing I did I would agree

 

[Rix]

Rix
I'm pretty sure the problem with my battery is the bms. I have tested it a little more and it keeps doing the same thing. After riding for a few minutes the motor will just stop, and the battery voltage will just drop from 90 volts to about 14 volts . It will stay that way even if I shut everything off and turn it back on. My battery consists of 2 individual blocks each being 45 volts each, when I check the voltage of each battery one will read 45 volts and the other comes back with a negative 31 volts. That is not a mistake. I'm actually reading a negative voltage off one of the batteries. As soon as I disconnect the battery from the controller and reconnect it everything goes back to 90 volts. While I was testing the bike out I was not beating on it and did not go over 30amps and nothing got hot. I talked with HPC and I'm in the process of sending the batteries back so they could look at them, they believe there definitely is a problem either the bms or the battery itself is bad and after doing the testing I did I would agree

Glad you got the problem identified. That is one strange number -31 volts, blows me away and I don't have the slightest why that's happening. I wonder if that's whats going on with Mattrb batter? HPC site say they warranty batteries for a year. glad for you guys that's the case. The warranty is the big reason why I was contemplating using their batts for my Bomber when mine finally takes a dump.

Rick

 

[Scratch1973]

Rix
I'm still guessing that the bms is the problem but that seems to be the only thing that makes sense at this point with the testing that I have done. I'm just kinda pissed cause they said that they tested the battery before they sent it out and it took 2 months for me to get it and a good week of getting everything to fit inside the frame for everything to sit right and not be able to move around and what not and now I have to take everything apart and send them back

 

[Rix]

Rix
I'm still guessing that the bms is the problem but that seems to be the only thing that makes sense at this point with the testing that I have done. I'm just kinda pissed cause they said that they tested the battery before they sent it out and it took 2 months for me to get it and a good week of getting everything to fit inside the frame for everything to sit right and not be able to move around and what not and now I have to take everything apart and send them back

How do you think I feel? I recommended HPC 90V13Ah to a couple of new ebike builders because their batteries looked great on their website, easy charging/maintenance chemistry, and because it would be simple plug n play. Now I feel like an ass because they are having some issues too. I am just now starting to understand Lipos and the required maintenance courtesy of spending time with Hyena and being involved with my dad's lipo conversion. Not a big deal, but not as plug n play friendly as the Li Ion battery units either. Kind of sucks if there is another 2 month turn around because the next 2 months coming up is some of the best riding in the northern Hemisphere before winter hits. I think when the time comes, if there are more issues with the HPC units, I will run a 20s 4p with 5.8ah packs and go lipo all of the way. Close to 2KW of total capacity, 1.55KW usable, bulk charge to 83 volts, balance every 10 cycles or so, should get an easy 400-500 charge cycles out lipos.

 

[korpin]

Korpin, I think you said a while back you were running the HPC 90V 13ah battery, if so, had any issue with it? I remember you melted some phase wires so you turned your CA down to 30amps. DId you ever try your bike set at max amps?

Rick

well I have only 90 volt 10 AH it turns out,but the older lithium batteries...with my amps set at 40 and low voltage cutoff set at 57, I can do about 15 miles of flat ground/hills combination cranking it really hard at 40-50 mph whilst pedaling before power cuts out ....at 30 amps and 20-25 mph,its probably 30-35 miles...if I go to 100 volts 13 AH,will probably be able to go 20-25 miles at 40-50 mph and 50 miles at 20-25 mph

my bike with old tires did 53 mph WITHOUT shclumph at 50 amps (not much difference in max speed between 30-50 amps setting it seems)...now its about 50 mph max WITH schlumph due to the smaller diameter wheels and 10 pounds more weight...was it worth it? yes because:

1)chance of flat on these motorcycle wheels/tires is slim
2)more confident at higher speeds and off road
3)the wheels really make the bike look cool

 

[korpin]

In the perth video,that red "INTENSE" bike looked interesting never seen that

That is a timma2500 build same as my specialized, and theres a similar norco, heres the build thread,

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=34719

thanks dingosEride

 

[Rix]

Thanks Dorian for the feed back. I am glad you are liking the Sr241s. The reasons you cited are solid and the same as why I went that route as well. The small weight increase is more than offset by the improvement in flat protection, traction, and cool looks. Thanks for the info about your batteries, The battery you described isn't on the website. Glad they are working out for you. Humble request, can you take a close up side view of your Phasor with the SR241s and post?

Rick

 

[korpin]

Thanks Dorian for the feed back. I am glad you are liking the Sr241s. The reasons you cited are solid and the same as why I went that route as well. The small weight increase is more than offset by the improvement in flat protection, traction, and cool looks. Thanks for the info about your batteries, The battery you described isn't on the website. Glad they are working out for you. Humble request, can you take a close up side view of your Phasor with the SR241s and post?

Rick

think I already posted this not sure....you think if I go to 100 volt controller and 100 volt battery (which will probably top out around 110-115 volts as opposed to my 90 volt topping out at 101) I will get much more speed?

 

[Rix]

Korpin, that the first I have seen of the top pic, nice. If you posted it before, I must have missed it. Yes, if you increase your volts, you will increase top speed. But, I think you would only be looking at couple of MPH more by going to the 100v nominal pack over your current 90v nominal pack. Yes if your 90v battery has settled after charging, and you compare that to the nominal 100v which you said would be 110-115 hot off the charger, I am guesstimating you may pick 6-7MPH. Another thing to consider though is with the high voltages you are running, increasing AH will probably yield some higher top speed. I say this because my bomber's ca turned down to 15amps will go about 30-32MPH max on flat even though the volts are the same. But with the CA @70mph, I am getting 46MPH hot off the charger with the 5404 and 56MPH with the 5403. What I think is going on here is wind resistance is overpowering the amount of thrust force which is limiting my MPH with the ca set at 15 amps. Ironically at 40 amps, top speed is the same as at 70 amps, just takes a little longer to get there. Anyway for what its worth.

Rick

 

[korpin]

here it is outdoors showing the schlumph drive and derailer

 

[korpin]

Ah... my build delayed

Accomplished assembling the bike yet without batteries inside. Had a 35 kilometers trip on it last week. The bike feels really meaty!!!

I'm going to finish in a few days.


Total weight of not-yet-electric Phasor is 23,5kg (51lbs)

I was wondering: what kind of gearing do you have? hard to see from photos...went back to page 41 saw your rear cassette wondering teeth on front sprocket and on smallest rear?

 

[korpin]

Im using rubber floor panals, cut to fit, to pad the inside of the frame. Im also using velcrow so they dont flop around. The bottom and the top of the batteries will have "book end" type blocks to keep the batteries from shifting, as the velcrow alone will not be suffice.

how are those rubber floor panels working out?

 

[Rodney64]

here it is outdoors showing the schlumph drive and derailer

Korpin, I'm fitting my schlumph drive today. I went for the high speed model 2.5 times with 155mm crank arms. Thanks for posting previously as it helped with my purchase.

 

[Rix]

Wow Rod, 2.5 Over drive. Thats just plain insane!! In a good way of course. A 30 tooth will become a 75 tooth. That motor wont out run your pedal cadence now.

Korpin, great pic at the trail head. Sure looks good in its intended environment.

Rick

 

[Rodney64]

Wow Rod, 2.5 Over drive. Thats just plain insane!! In a good way of course. A 30 tooth will become a 75 tooth. That motor wont out run your pedal cadence now.

Korpin, great pic at the trail head. Sure looks good in its intended environment.

Rick

Yes aiming for 50kms per hour. It's actually a 27 tooth front.

 

[Rix]

Still that will be the equiv of a 68-69t chain ring. Should be more than big enough. Can't wait to hear about your ride report.

Rick

 

[Deutch420]

Im using rubber floor panals, cut to fit, to pad the inside of the frame. Im also using velcrow so they dont flop around. The bottom and the top of the batteries will have "book end" type blocks to keep the batteries from shifting, as the velcrow alone will not be suffice.

how are those rubber floor panels working out?

Perfectly. Had to adjust a few areas where there was too much or too little pressure, but its a great solution if you ask me. I've been trail bashing pretty hard, took flight multiple times, and the batteries haven't budged.