E-S Phasor Electric Bike Owners

Rix said:
I see you did go with the Schlumpf. How do you like it?
Click to expand...

The bike works and looks great and the fox fork's don't touch the 3in tires at all. I just need to tidy up the phase wire and it will be perfect. The rear dropout is not even close to the tire. The schlumpf works like a charm and lets me pedal at 40-40mph. Its amazing.
 
I'm having trouble getting my cromotor running. So far I've checked the throttle. Replaced the controller with a new zombiess 18 fet and now removed the side cover on the motor. Now I need to check that each hall and phase wire is ok but I'm not sure how to do this.

I do have a multimeter but unsure how to use it to test that they're ok.
 
Hi Rod I just went through all this.
Check the how to on ebikes.CA.
Check continuity between the axle and the hall sensor plug pins.(should be zero)
With the controller plugged in use alligator clips on sewing pins to connect your multimeter to the hall wires. Pull back the outer insulation over the 5 hall wires (just the big outer one) then poke the negative sewing needle into the black and test all the others.(make sure you dont short the pins together)
Red - 4.5 ish
Blue green and yellow should be 1 or 4 changing as the wheel rotates.
Also for windings/phase. With all disconnected from power link y-g g-b b-y 1 at a time and feel the wheel as you turn it by hand should cog much more than when its not connected.
Good luck.
 
Hi Guys
It's been a little while since I posted but I have been trying to figure out the problem I have been having with the bms tripping in my battery. I have the 90v 100a HPC elite LI-NMC battery with the CAv3 and Methods 420 controller. At first I thought it was the batteries and sent them back to HPC where they were tested and everything checked out fine, next after hearing about various bugs with the CAv3 thought it could be that so I took it out of the system and still had the same problem so now that just leaves Methods 420 controller. Is anyone using his controller and or having problems? I reached out to him several times thru his email and here and got completely blown off. Nothing like good customer service. Lol. Can anyone recommend a controller for my setup that might actually work??
 
Scratch is your bike still running after you disconnect then reconnect the batteries? If the bikes still running does it make any difference if you're running it with low amps.

I still haven't managed to get my Cromotor even after changing my controller. My motor had a dead spot when running hard. Im. Thinking the one of the hall sensors was on its way out.

I haven't changed one yet . I have opened the motor but unsure exactly where they are. All phase wires are on the disc brake side with small hall sensor wires coming from both sides of the both sides.

If anyone can point me to a thread on how to change hall sensors on a Cromotor it would be appreciated.
 
Rod
Basically the bms is tripping on my battery. Once I disconnect it and reconnect it it works again until the bms trips again. So far I think the controller is just drawing to many amps from the battery. I'm still trying and testing to see if it is that exactly. I have lowered the amps thru the CA several times , 80 it tripped , 60 it tripped , 50 it tripped , now I have it set at 40 and still testing. I talked to Justin from ebikes.ca and he said that it's just a bad motor, controller and battery combo and that my amps on my controller should be half of what the battery is rated for. My batteries are rated for 110 amps and I should be able to go higher than 40 amps out of my controller. I think there is a few more setting on the throttle that I may need to adjust and may need to reprogram the controller but it's just trial and error at this point hoping that I can get it to work with the power I want.


Rod who did u get your cromotor from?
 
Scratch1973 said:
Is it possible to actually get rid of the bms and the battery work?
Click to expand...
Really wouldn't recommend going that far. Just get the crystalyte controller that I HPC uses, you will be fine. You could return it if it doesn't work anyway.
 
Scratch I monitor my pack when bulk charging with these monitors.

Only use them when charging. It's an option provided that you keep an eye on your pack when charging and discharging

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__29652__On_Board_Lipoly_Low_Voltage_Alarm_2s_6s_.html
 
I was in my garage, checking my bike and I noticed a gnat bug got in my Cycle Analyst under the LCD. What is the best way to avoid this?
 
I have a USB port on my Phasor and want to put a USB bluetooth speaker on the bike. I am wondering how I am to mount it. I was thinking of going to one of those 3d printing stores or to the local library which has a 3d printer and create a mount for a speaker on top the phasor frame.
 
I realize this may have already been hashed thru a while back,but for folks like me who have multiple gears on rear and a schlumph drive and want a chain tensioner it will probably have to be installed on the swingarm somehow...any off the shelf solutions out there?....I realize david pierce put provisions for that on bottom bracket but remember the schlumph drive because of its thickness negates that (I think...maybe there IS a chain tensioner that will work with schlumph drive?) ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED not really a bicycle expert here tried a couple bike shops not too much help...
 

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Korpin, I think your best bet would be to get a shifting derailleur with a short cage. The short cage would pull harder on the chain increasing tension that way. Because the design allows for the chain to run under the swingarm, there really isn't much else that can be done. I suppose a guy could weld a tab onto the box and run chain guide around the big ring like DH and Slalom bikes due. I don't think the Schlumpf is set up for running one of those with a bottom bracket mount. Look into a derailleur with a short cage and running the shortest possible chain you can. Should be doable since you are not running multiple chain rings up front.

Rick
 
phasor came today so I started putting it together. Came across a couple snags that I'm dealing with but hope to be up and running soon. swingarm wont fit into the hinge area, even with shaving the powder coat as described earlier in the thread so I'm trying to deal with that. To the point where I'm looking to see if I can file some of the parts on the frame side (need to talk to david first as rubber mallet or not its not going into place). Otherwise only issue is the seattube sleeve got pinched a bit when the slot to deal with a seat clamp was cut in, so I cant fit a seattube in there yet as its been slightly ovalized.

Hopefully all will be solved soon and I can post some pics. Otherwise it looks great.
 
wingsuit said:
phasor came today so I started putting it together. Came across a couple snags that I'm dealing with but hope to be up and running soon. swingarm wont fit into the hinge area, even with shaving the powder coat as described earlier in the thread so I'm trying to deal with that. To the point where I'm looking to see if I can file some of the parts on the frame side (need to talk to david first as rubber mallet or not its not going into place). Otherwise only issue is the seattube sleeve got pinched a bit when the slot to deal with a seat clamp was cut in, so I cant fit a seattube in there yet as its been slightly ovalized.

Hopefully all will be solved soon and I can post some pics. Otherwise it looks great.
Click to expand...

Congrats!!! I remember the day i got mine. Like a kid christmas morning. upload some pics!
My swingarm, along with others, was a PITA to get in as well. Just be patient with it before you start removing material (other than the powdercoat). Talk to david first or give it a few more attempts. But be sure to not remove more material than is needed. This is an area that has very tight clearances for a reason!



On a total side note, i finally found a good spot to mount the GoPro. Ill take a vid of me trail bashing tomorrow. There is this one jump where i always max out my front fork travel (8" fox 40), cant wait to have video of the fork at work. Plus this is a much lower mounting point for me. So i hope when im doing 35mph in the woods, it doesnt look like 10mph (like it does when mounted on top of my head). Fresh vids tomorrow!!


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Deutch, I was wondering where you have been? Glad to see you are still in action. Are there more vids coming down the pipe with your new mount? Hope so.


Rick
 
Rix said:
Deutch, I was wondering where you have been? Glad to see you are still in action. Are there more vids coming down the pipe with your new mount? Hope so.


Rick
Click to expand...

I've been meaning to get out the past 2 days with some trail bashing footage, but its been raining. As soon as I get a clear day, I'm going out. I kinda don't like riding in the woods this time of year because everything is covered in leafs. I've mashed into 6" roots at 20mph BC they are invisible. Just a matter of time before I pop a tire or bend a rim riding during the fall...oh well, 100% worth the risk :)
 
I have a question regarding batteries...who makes the best batteries as far as number of charges,weight,power,and life of battery?...my original 10 AH lipo from high cycles has less than 100 charges but seems to be losing range already....also,if my bike sits a few days the voltage drops from 101 fully charged to 94 volts...they told me this was due to coverter I installed for GPS but I put an on/off switch in between battery and converter and the voltage drops even with switch off

right now with pedaling and various speeds from 20-45 mph on flat ground power is gone in about 17 miles

they told me their new batteries are better about 2899.00 for 20 AH (they will probably give me a little break since I spent 9000 on bike) not sure on weight
 
Korpin my 2 100 volt batteries which are 15 amp hour both perform differently. Ones rated at 20c and the others rated at 40c. The 40c has a lot less sag that the 20c battery. On my bike I have an isolator switch on the positive wire going to the controller. Its worth trying one of these if you still have power to the controller.



http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SF2245
 
thanks Rodney....was thinking of going to 100 volt system but then I would have to change controller and charger thought just making a 90 volt battery would be easier...so on your 100 volt 15 AH system how much range do you think you have at say 45-50 MPH and 20-25 MPH?...AND THE WEIGHT OF YOUR BATTERY?
 
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