Ebike novice project for constructive criticism please

[firemids]

Quite new to this . And just loving ebikes now. It becomes so addictive lol. Iv finished a very basic construction of a Chinese import 1000w with lead sealed batteries. Now selling to fund a new motor . Iv got a controller thats 60v 80 amps think its 30 fet but not sure on that(that's what iv been told ) ??? Got myself 6x turnigy 6s 5000 ah batteries to make up 66v at 10 amps ( thinking of doubling when I get the money to 20amps ) they are 35c rating . I'm thinking of buying a crystalyte hs3540 ?
Can anyone see any problems with this set up ?
I appreciate any help
Kind regards Paul

 

[Sunder]

To be frankly honest with you, I'm more a mini geared hub kind of guy, with only some basic experience in direct drive motors, so there are plenty here who could give you better advice than I can, but since it's been about 4 hours since you posted and nobody has, I'll give you a start.

1. LiPo - I do have experience here. Don't forget that 18S2P is 66.6v NOMINAL. Hot off the charger, it's 75.6v. Make sure your "60v" controller can handle 75.6v. Or preferable one or two volts higher, since you can't trust chargers and temperature to be consistent.

2. I've never owned a HS3540. I know that there are plenty using them at 3000w, but your controller and battery pack set up has the potential to push out over 6000w on full charge. A quick google only showed one recommendation for current limiting - 40A, but it didn't say at what voltage.

3. If you get anywhere near that, be absolutely sure you have the other safety aspects locked down first. I'd be thinking front and rear hydraulic discs. Also, are you using torque arms? Many thought I was crazy for not using torque arms on 1kw. Anything above that, and you'd be crazy, especially if you're fitting it to a front fork. Have you thought about the capability of the bike to handle the kinds of speeds you're likely to get? The HS3540 has a target speed of 40km @36v. In theory, if you don't melt the entire setup, you should be expecting 80km/h. Front and rear suspension would be a must, and you'd want to make sure you have a very good quality frame, and not something cheap that's going to disintegrate the first pothole you hit at 50km/h.

IMHO, I would get a programmable controller first, and limit myself to 40A first. The Stealth Fighter uses that as a tried and true motor combo. Take it easy and after 100km, check your bike for any signs of cracking excessive wear or damage. Only then would I start tweaking it up from there.

Oh - and with the current that you could potentially put out, if you run it at full throttle (80A), expect around about 7.5 minutes of battery life. Another reason to cut down the power until you have more juice.

Again, reminder that I have no experience in with this motor. My advice is just to take it easy, your setup sounds very dangerous for a second build.

 

[dogman dan]

Too much controller. 80 amps is for monster motors built for 5000w. The clyte is built more for 1500w, but can be pushed to 3000w if you are careful.

Get a cheap 40 amps controller, like a 12 fet. Get it in 72v, and it will run on 18s without problems with the low voltage cutoff. 18s with 40 amps will have you running above 2500w.

It will be plenty, surely illegal on the street in most of the world. More than enough to be scary dangerous on a cheap alloy frame bike. Cheap steel bikes can be very strong, but the cheap alloy ones get the wobbles.

Can you handle a tank slapper at 40mph?

 

[firemids]

Thanks for the reply . That really helps I did think the controller I had was a bit powerfull. I guess now my question is do I keep the controller and go for the more expensive crystalyte crown . Or go for the 40 amp . Think I might go for the 40 amp controller. I'm sure I could always sell mine although I'm not sure how much my controller is worth. It's 60v 80amp 30 fet . Any ideas anyone ?
Thanks again for the help
Kind regards Paul

 

[dogman dan]

You will want a very nice bike, to run a motor that matches that controller.

You have leaned to walk, learn to run before you try to fly. Get a 40 amps controller. 3000 w is plenty. Any more can result in a bike that is a quick trip to the hospital. You gotta know what you are doing when you put 10 hp on a bike. They were designed for 1/3 hp.

I'm just guessing, but I bet you are sitting in your garage looking at a bike that cost less than $300. Does it have brakes that cost $300? Doubt it.

You have any clue at all how expensive a battery to handle an 80 amps controller is going to be? ( unless you go for very short rides) Suppose you have the money. How exactly do you carry that battery on a bicycle?

 

[firemids]

Thanks and your right . Trying to fly before I can run properly . I'm going to sell this controller and buy a more suited one at 40 amps. My bike I'm using is not bad it cost Approx $1000 a few years ago. But I defiantly need to take it one step at a time
Thanks again

 

[100volts+]

If there is anyway you can keep the more powerful controller, keep it. You might regret selling it. If you are like me, 1500 watts won't keep you happy long. I've got full sets of 20s, 24s, 28s, and am waiting on my 32s lipo.

 

[dogman dan]

I agree, keep it for later, when you have a cromotor. But make your early mistakes with cheaper stuff, to go 40 mph.

Good that you have a quality bike. Good starting point for flying later. We get these guys, they slap a 35-40 mph motor on a cheap bike, have no clue how to tune a set of V brakes, and three weeks later we read about their accident. Invariably, it's a car that popped into their path, and they just hit the shitty brakes and skid right into it. But even before that, they are getting the wobbles and will crack that cheap alloy frame if they don't crash first.

Takes a lot of riding experience to avoid cars that think you are going 15 mph. If they turn in front of you, you let it happen. Gotta learn to change directions while braking, miss that car, and not be where they can get you.

 

[torker]

Exactly Dogman. Putting it that way = " The car that thinks you are doing 15 mph. "
That makes the point of riding a bike in traffic with 2 + ton steel cages with people texting and who knows doing what else..
To be honest I can see the problem. If I am driving and look to pull out of a stop and I see a bike and start to pull out cause oh it is just a bike. I am a very defensive driver but it would still take that extra nanosecond to realize oh that frickin bicycle is doing 40 mph. It is experience that says that it is going slow. I have been caught off guard when I think a car is going slower than I think. It is easy to do even with cars.
I have been riding motorcycles since the 70s but these days I don't really want to commute on a bike the way I see people drive these days. I guess I just got old or something

 

[brumbrum]

40mph in the UK is going to get you pulled by the fuzz at some point. then you could be up for a lot of charges that will be hard to dodge.

 

[firemids]

Thanks for the replys . I think I'll try and keep the bigger controller for the future . Iv not decided to get the 40 amp controller as soon as I find someone selling one for a descent price . Going to order my hs 3540 direct from crystalyte Europe unless anyone has had any bad experiences or knows of a cheaper place bearing in mind I'm in the uk. ( the hub motors do seem to be cheaper to buy in America and Canada for some reason ?)

Ref to your comment brumbrum . I know even with the bike iv been riding at 30+ I do keep an eye out for the police and always peddle hopefully making people think I'm just some sort or Olympic cyclist lol " honest officer that huge great wacking motor in my wheel is only 250watts iv just got great powerful legs that do the rest " lol

 

[rich43]

I am also from UK (East Midlands), here's my E-Bike:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=55913

Here's my Turnigy 1000w charger, its a beast!
[youtube]AP-ieGxqBlA[/youtube]

Mine also can do 40mph but I don't do that often, I just designed it to be fast so that I can keep up with the car in front and get myself out of danger.
Since I am sensible, I haven't had any problems with the police. Wearing the correct safety gear helps too (Helmet, Reflective jacket, etc).
1000w motor is from ebay (bog standard Chinese 1000w), 45a 72v controller is from a member on here called zenid (http://www.zenid.com/shop.htm).

I am interested in meeting any UK members on here with E-Bikes in person, would be fun to go for a ride