ecrazyman shenzhen controller status LED 4 blinks?

[Gregory]

For the old style Shenzhen ecrazyman controller I'm getting 4 flashes on the error LED.

I may have shorted out one of the hall wires as I have a temporary joiner down on the seat stay from motor output to the main wiring loom, but I have tested the halls and they are all OK (.05-4.86V). Connections all seem OK.

Wheel doesn't even try to move. Twist the throttle and there is an almost inaudible click inside the controller.

Does anyone know what the 4 LED error flash code means?

Thanks, Greg


In the Shenzhen Controller info thread , http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=9046

From what I can tell, the codes are:

No light: Motor running
1 flash: Standby, motor stopped
2 flashes: Throttle input fault or HV brake active
3 flashes: Locked rotor (start speed protection)
4 flashes:
5 flashes: High side FET shorted
6 flashes: Hall sensor fault
7 flashes:
8 flashes: Under voltage (LVC) active

Not sure about 4 and 8. One is most likely an overcurrent fault

 

[Gregory]

I've opened the controller and all looks OK, no smell or blackened traces.

In the same Shenzhen thread diver asked the same question about 4 blinks but never got a response or posted his results so I have PM'd him to see if he has more info.

I've also emailed Keywin to see if he can help.

 

[Gregory]

Well diver just bought himself a new controller when he had this 4 blink error code - I don't think he diagnosed the controller fault.

Still waiting to hear from Keywin Ge.

 

[Knuckles]

disconnect the controller from everything (isolate)

then use multi-meter to check resistance between each of two out of three phase wires.

should read 20k (green-blue, blue-yellow, yellow-green).

if not all equal (about 20k) between each leg then blown mosfets

 

[Gregory]

Thanks Knuckles

One was 19.8k, the other two combinations were 16.6k

Now I'm going to do a bit more research on here exactly what that means, I'm sure there is a FET thread here somewhere.

 

[Knuckles]

It means ...

so sorry ... bad fet(s)

 

[Gregory]

Thanks for confirming that.
I've read Richards Crystalyte repair and modification thread.

I have ordered some 4110's from Voicecoils so should have them here mid week. I'm sure I can do it if I take it slowly.

 

[Gregory]

Success!
I'd assume the 4 blink error code applies to a FET error of some type.

I replaced all the FETs with 4110's from Voicecoils, and beefed up the traces while I was in there.
Bike seems to only pull max 45 amps with the shunt as it stands (about 60% soldered in) so 3500W. Might have to lift that up to 70A....

LED now blinks one blink - i.e. standby and the bike runs again.

Really wasn't too difficult but a bit time consuming removing all the solder, and resoldering. Not a job I really want to do again.
Thanks for the help ES.

 

[dnmun]

give the man a star!

way cool. now you can go fast.

 

[diver]

ha i looked at the fets on the controller i bought from crazy and one is cracked . I never had this one running ,i tried but just gave me the code I bet the cracked fet is whats wrong lol


If you double click image to inlarge its the second one in from left , look at top of fet. It came to me this way out of the box..lol Not complaining just showing lol

 

[dnmun]

what did you try? you kinda blew it up without even noticing. did the wheel spin at all, how long? or it just went duht! when you first jumped on it and hit the throttle?

 

[SilverSurfer]

Seems like you dont need any help, this is the list that came with the manual I got

1 flash: No error detected/self diagnostic
2 flash: Low volt cut off
3 flash: Throttle failure, absent, or wired wrong
4 flash: E-brake is activated
5 flash: Motor short circuit
6 flash: Controller Mosfet failure
7 flash: Motor Hall sensor failure

It flashed errors starting from 7 going to 2, you had to fix 6 before you would know if 3 was good. Ect... This just the list that came with the manual for the controller with the 116 chip. SS

For the old style Shenzhen ecrazyman controller I'm getting 4 flashes on the error LED.

I may have shorted out one of the hall wires as I have a temporary joiner down on the seat stay from motor output to the main wiring loom, but I have tested the halls and they are all OK (.05-4.86V). Connections all seem OK.

Wheel doesn't even try to move. Twist the throttle and there is an almost inaudible click inside the controller.

Does anyone know what the 4 LED error flash code means?

Thanks, Greg


In the Shenzhen Controller info thread , http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=9046

From what I can tell, the codes are:

No light: Motor running
1 flash: Standby, motor stopped
2 flashes: Throttle input fault or HV brake active
3 flashes: Locked rotor (start speed protection)
4 flashes:
5 flashes: High side FET shorted
6 flashes: Hall sensor fault
7 flashes:
8 flashes: Under voltage (LVC) active

Not sure about 4 and 8. One is most likely an overcurrent fault

 

[Knuckles]

Success!
I'd assume the 4 blink error code applies to a FET error of some type.

I replaced all the FETs with 4110's from Voicecoils, and beefed up the traces while I was in there.
Bike seems to only pull max 45 amps with the shunt as it stands (about 60% soldered in) so 3500W. Might have to lift that up to 70A....

LED now blinks one blink - i.e. standby and the bike runs again.

Really wasn't too difficult but a bit time consuming removing all the solder, and resoldering. Not a job I really want to do again.
Thanks for the help ES.

Regardless of the error codes ... the phase leads MUST measure the same (about 20 kohm) when the unit is isolated.
DANG ... You did a complete fet replacement? You rock dude! 8)

frock'n'ey

 

[SkyCaptain]

Hey, could you please tell me in lamens terms how to do this test on the phase wires,,,as in, I have a Multimeter, can I do it with that?

What do you mean isolate controller? Or how do you do you that?Isolate the controller?
And how do I actually perform this measurement?

I am thinking I would put my multimeter on the ohm setting? which one, is it like the 20k ohm setting I put it on?
Then what?
Do I need to power the controller up?
How do I isolate it?
What Do I do to perform this measurement?

Thanks to anyone if they can explain this to me.

I have an old controller here that stopped working, and I would love to try and find whats wrong with it and repair it, so am thinking this would be a good test to try.

(ohh the controller I want to repair locks the wheel when you power it up),it gives the same feeling/symtoms as when you short 2 phase wires on a hub motor, Any idea's on what could have failed on the controller to give these syptoms? nothing looks obviously burned or damaged on it.
Is there much I can check with my multimeter to see what may have failed on it?
It was working great for around 2 years, then just died the other week.
(its not the motor, as I have other motors to test controller with, and they do the same thing, when I power up the controller, its like its shorting the phase wires of the motor, and locks up the rear wheel.

Best Regards

 

[Gregory]

Isolate to me meant unplug all the wires. All of them. No power.

Then using multimeter on 20K setting measure between the phases looking for differences in resistance indicating a short/burnt FET. Yellow-blue, blue-green, yellow-green. They should be the same.

If not you may have damaged FETS.

You can also open the controller and visually inspect for burns/smoke damage inside the controller.
good luck

 

[Knuckles]

I have an old controller here that stopped working, and I would love to try and find whats wrong with it and repair it, so am thinking this would be a good test to try.

Your wire harness may be shorted. The controller may be fine.

Use a spare controller to test your motor.
or
Use a spare motor to test your controller.

Wiring, Wiring, Wiring.
90% of all problems are simple wiring problems.
Same goes for computer networks btw. 8)

-K

 

[iovaykind]

Just had the same problem Accidentally had the "voltmeter" wire hit a ground, so a huge spark happened. Opened up the controller (72v hua tong generic controller) and when i press the throttle i hear a VERY quiet click also just like OP. LED flashes in 4's. Checked the resistance of the phase wires and one of the combinations had a much higher resistance than the other two looks like I'll need to replace some fets.. or the entire controller. Either way, a lot of effort was put into replacing the leads on the controller and a simple mistake like that is costing me so much.

Does anyone know how I can test the mosfets to see which one needs to be replaced?

 

[iovaykind]

Did the OP replace every fet? There's gotta be a way to test them and know which ones to replace. Im almost dead certain the same thing happened to me. I also have the four led blink code. Help anyone??