SlyCayer
100 W
sn0wchyld said:
Darn, HK is out of stock on these and I was ready to build the board...
Electric Mountain board- 6374-s, Tgy SS200A's on 5s HD vids!
- Thread starter sn0wchyld
- Start date
Darn, HK is out of stock on these and I was ready to build the board...
sn0wchyld
100 kW
SlyCayer said:
There are some other car controllers that should do the job, though i think they're limited to 5 or 4s, so a bit low on power. HK restock those ones fairly often anyway...
sk8norcal said:cool, didn't see the cheaper version when i posted earlier,
so, why redrill deck ? for the trucks or bindings?
Both
! I'v got bindings but I'm not sure ill keep em. so I had it drilled for easy changing between the two options.Ill have to get some progress pics, the new wheels have made building the parts really easy. Hopefully I'll have it running in the next day or so!!
fizzit
10 kW
This is really cool, looks like a lot of fun!
I made an electric scooter with a 63-74 and a turnigy 100a controller. I had some small sync problems but my motor never got too hot. I think that it would help you a lot with your heat and sync issues if you went to #25 chain or something like that and got a smaller motor sprocket and larger wheel sprocket, so the motor could spin faster.
I made an electric scooter with a 63-74 and a turnigy 100a controller. I had some small sync problems but my motor never got too hot. I think that it would help you a lot with your heat and sync issues if you went to #25 chain or something like that and got a smaller motor sprocket and larger wheel sprocket, so the motor could spin faster.
sn0wchyld
100 kW
fizzit said:
that'd probably help, but i'd be surprised if thats the main issue. I've ordered some higher kv motors so I can try doing just that, but I can really notice the difference between the cheapo ss190-200 controller and the 150a ones even just testing them no load on my bench. the 150a syncs almost instantly and spins notably quieter than the ss200's, which take at least half a second to sink, even with nothing attached to the motor!!
fizzit
10 kW
sn0wchyld said:
Ah I see, that makes sense. What is the no-load speed that this is currently geared for?
sn0wchyld
100 kW
fizzit said:
about 40km'h, so not exactly screamingly fast. its geared down at 3:1 (36t/12t), running on 5s with 180kv motors. I'm also going to try running it sensored at some point too, probably using burties optical sensors.
parajared
10 kW
Not sure if this is the way to do it or not, but it always seemed to me like it would be a neat idea to use the wheel from a izip or e-razor scooter.
I think it would be cool to craigslist a scooter and convert it into a 2 wheel style mountain board (like dirtsurfer). I bet this could be done for less than $100.
This one is $40
http://www.partsforscooters.com/Razor_e300_wheel_65t?sc=9&category=277
I think it would be cool to craigslist a scooter and convert it into a 2 wheel style mountain board (like dirtsurfer). I bet this could be done for less than $100.
This one is $40
http://www.partsforscooters.com/Razor_e300_wheel_65t?sc=9&category=277
sn0wchyld
100 kW
time for an update me thinks...
probably 10-15 minutes away from being ready to run... just need to stick down a few more components, namely the reciever and the on off switches + a few other dribs and drabs. progress has been slow due to ilness resulting in shitty exam marks, and a resultant sup exam this monday, which I've been craming for to make sure I can ace it even if I do get sick again....
The wireing actually looks neater in person, has a kind of vascular alien quality to it...
View attachment 2
I cut a old freewheel body from a bike in half, and then machined some sleeves to adapt and lock them to the motor axles, using 2 grub screws about 120deg apart. This is the right hand one - I used a 20mm bolt as the base for the sleeve, which enabled me to then turn and tap a large 'nut' to clamp the sprocket on to the freewheel body. the other side uses the end of the freewheel body, so I could use the normal lock nut from a bike to secure the sprockets.
problem is i'd then have to adapt those wheels to the 12mm axles on my mountainboard. machining the sprocket mounts to fit onto the break mounts on my board was a snap, only about 40 minutes each or so, including tapping them, so I no longer have to use nuts!
And yea, a dirtsurfer would be a dream come true, the whole reason I found ES a couple of years ago was when I first started hunting for ways to get and convert a dirtsurfer to be electric. But allas, they are pretty much impossible to find in australia, and they cant be imported either since the uk/us distributors arn't allowed due to some distrobution agreement with the aussie creator, who is no longer making them...
still... I'm getting to the point now where I might just make one myself. I've got access to all the tools and skills (be it mine or the pro's in the uni workshop!) i need... its just a matter of finding the time between uni, ebikes, emountainboards, and the rest of lifes hardships... sigh.
I often find myself wishing I was one of those 'healthy' insomniacs, because its the only way i'll get all the things I want to do done...
Should have some vids of the new board up sometime next week.
probably 10-15 minutes away from being ready to run... just need to stick down a few more components, namely the reciever and the on off switches + a few other dribs and drabs. progress has been slow due to ilness resulting in shitty exam marks, and a resultant sup exam this monday, which I've been craming for to make sure I can ace it even if I do get sick again....
The wireing actually looks neater in person, has a kind of vascular alien quality to it...
superdan said:
View attachment 2
I cut a old freewheel body from a bike in half, and then machined some sleeves to adapt and lock them to the motor axles, using 2 grub screws about 120deg apart. This is the right hand one - I used a 20mm bolt as the base for the sleeve, which enabled me to then turn and tap a large 'nut' to clamp the sprocket on to the freewheel body. the other side uses the end of the freewheel body, so I could use the normal lock nut from a bike to secure the sprockets.
parajared said:Not sure if this is the way to do it or not, but it always seemed to me like it would be a neat idea to use the wheel from a izip or e-razor scooter.
I think it would be cool to craigslist a scooter and convert it into a 2 wheel style mountain board (like dirtsurfer). I bet this could be done for less than $100.
........
problem is i'd then have to adapt those wheels to the 12mm axles on my mountainboard. machining the sprocket mounts to fit onto the break mounts on my board was a snap, only about 40 minutes each or so, including tapping them, so I no longer have to use nuts!
And yea, a dirtsurfer would be a dream come true, the whole reason I found ES a couple of years ago was when I first started hunting for ways to get and convert a dirtsurfer to be electric. But allas, they are pretty much impossible to find in australia, and they cant be imported either since the uk/us distributors arn't allowed due to some distrobution agreement with the aussie creator, who is no longer making them...
still... I'm getting to the point now where I might just make one myself. I've got access to all the tools and skills (be it mine or the pro's in the uni workshop!) i need... its just a matter of finding the time between uni, ebikes, emountainboards, and the rest of lifes hardships... sigh.
I often find myself wishing I was one of those 'healthy' insomniacs, because its the only way i'll get all the things I want to do done...
Should have some vids of the new board up sometime next week.
sk8norcal
1 MW
parajared said:
maybe like this..
http://wackyboards.blogspot.com/2009/07/x-board.html
there is a homemade e-dirtsurfer here,
http://wackyboards.blogspot.com/2009/08/madboard.html
here's a bunch of 2 wheelers,
http://wackyboards.blogspot.com/search/label/mountain%20boards%20%282%20wheels%29
sk8norcal
1 MW
sn0wchyld said:
can u show details of how the motor brackets are mounted to the truck hanger ?
only 2 bolts?
4 point mounting on this one....
http://img11.rajce.idnes.cz/d1103/5/5266/5266040_b4b23d8f1777d2f0039a440d4127371f/images/Fotografie1344.jpg?ver=0
sn0wchyld
100 kW
as requested
using 3 8mm bolts, tapped right into the truck hanger itself. seems to be holding up really well so far...
the 3 bolts on each end are to hold the angle alloy in place and allow for chain tension yo be adjusted.
on other news, its (as usual) a case of 2 steps forward, 1.9 steps back... ESC died today, in 'almost' spectacular fashion, and after a meer 30-50m of riding... Initially it shuddered, then it just died completely, no power, no lights. About 30 seconds later, it started making a screaming sound, like something was venting (though the caps look fine) and the majic smoke started poring out of all its holes. Luckily I was able to pull the battery cables out and avoid any fires or battery damage. KIll switches (in my case a 'grab loop' of battery wire right after the connector) are a must!!!!! Sadly, though i'd planned on taking it, i left the camera at home, so no vids of the catastrophe.
I'm hoping it was just a lemon, and not that some design change has resulted in these esc's being unviable for this application since humbleboatRC's build a year or so ago... I know it's happened with the SS190-200's...
That said, it died under a light load (guessing <20A) on a small ramp, so holding out hope that it was just a lemon. One of the phases on that ESC came loose the other day too, which at the time didn't seem to have damaged the esc (kept using it afterwards for a while) but perhaps did enough to cause today failure. Fortunately I've ordered another a few days ago which was going to go in my 10'th scale RC car, but will now find itself pushing my chubby ass along.
Also noticed a new RC controller has arrived at HK... almost 2x the cost of the current car controller offerings, but 8s and 200A sounds very promising... volt up, gear down... win!
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=24754&aff=326255
Gotta save some pennies, but looks like it might be a good option for e bikes too!! if another hk150A goes, I might have to just try one out...
using 3 8mm bolts, tapped right into the truck hanger itself. seems to be holding up really well so far...
the 3 bolts on each end are to hold the angle alloy in place and allow for chain tension yo be adjusted.
on other news, its (as usual) a case of 2 steps forward, 1.9 steps back... ESC died today, in 'almost' spectacular fashion, and after a meer 30-50m of riding... Initially it shuddered, then it just died completely, no power, no lights. About 30 seconds later, it started making a screaming sound, like something was venting (though the caps look fine) and the majic smoke started poring out of all its holes. Luckily I was able to pull the battery cables out and avoid any fires or battery damage. KIll switches (in my case a 'grab loop' of battery wire right after the connector) are a must!!!!! Sadly, though i'd planned on taking it, i left the camera at home, so no vids of the catastrophe.
I'm hoping it was just a lemon, and not that some design change has resulted in these esc's being unviable for this application since humbleboatRC's build a year or so ago... I know it's happened with the SS190-200's...
That said, it died under a light load (guessing <20A) on a small ramp, so holding out hope that it was just a lemon. One of the phases on that ESC came loose the other day too, which at the time didn't seem to have damaged the esc (kept using it afterwards for a while) but perhaps did enough to cause today failure. Fortunately I've ordered another a few days ago which was going to go in my 10'th scale RC car, but will now find itself pushing my chubby ass along.
Also noticed a new RC controller has arrived at HK... almost 2x the cost of the current car controller offerings, but 8s and 200A sounds very promising... volt up, gear down... win!
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=24754&aff=326255
Gotta save some pennies, but looks like it might be a good option for e bikes too!! if another hk150A goes, I might have to just try one out...
pendragon8000
100 kW
Oi mad respect to you man! Sick video.
We got a go for a off road session ay? My bike is my commuter sorta, so can't bomb big gaps I'll pm you.
We got a go for a off road session ay? My bike is my commuter sorta, so can't bomb big gaps I'll pm you.
sn0wchyld said:Also noticed a new RC controller has arrived at HK... almost 2x the cost of the current car controller offerings, but 8s and 200A sounds very promising... volt up, gear down... win!
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=24754&aff=326255
No, this esc isn't good. I ended my electric mountain board last week and tried it on weekends.
After 10-20 min and about 40-50 km/h one of two ESC 8s 200A was dead. Motors were realy HOT, smoked and smeled of burnt wiring. But riding was exciting)))
I have the same problems as you.sn0wchyld said:
My bord cant start from 0 km/h, when you are on it. It has strange convulsions.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3Noahx_MiA
I think it depends on motor kv range, so i'm going to book new low kv motors.
My board:
One mountainboard
Two Turnigy TrackStar 1/5th Sensorless Brushless Motor 730KV (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=24850)
Two Turnigy Trackstar 1/5th Scale Sensorless 200amp 8s Opto Car ESC (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=24754)
Four ZIPPY Compact 5800mAh 8S 25C Lipo Pack
Turnigy HV SBEC 5A Switch Regulator (8-42V input) (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=18521)
Hobby King GT-2 2.4Ghz 2Ch Tx & Rx
Attachments
sn0wchyld, why have you used car ESC?
I'm thinking of buying plane ESC for example
Turnigy dlux 120A HV Brushless Speed Controller (OPTO) (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=17982)
or may be this
Turnigy Super Brain 100A Brushless ESC (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=10944)
Don't know what ESC is better for that motor: Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 6364-213kv Brushless Outrunner Motor (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18180__Turnigy_Aerodrive_SK3_6364_213kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor.html)
I'm thinking of buying plane ESC for example
Turnigy dlux 120A HV Brushless Speed Controller (OPTO) (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=17982)
or may be this
Turnigy Super Brain 100A Brushless ESC (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=10944)
Don't know what ESC is better for that motor: Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 6364-213kv Brushless Outrunner Motor (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18180__Turnigy_Aerodrive_SK3_6364_213kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor.html)
sn0wchyld
100 kW
Laureloke said:sn0wchyld said:Also noticed a new RC controller has arrived at HK... almost 2x the cost of the current car controller offerings, but 8s and 200A sounds very promising... volt up, gear down... win!
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=24754&aff=326255
No, this esc isn't good. I ended my electric mountain board last week and tried it on weekends.
After 10-20 min and about 40-50 km/h one of two ESC 8s 200A was dead. Motors were realy HOT, smoked and smeled of burnt wiring. But riding was exciting)))
I have the same problems as you.sn0wchyld said:
My bord cant start from 0 km/h, when you are on it. It has strange convulsions.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3Noahx_MiA
I think it depends on motor kv range, so i'm going to book new low kv motors.
My board:
One mountainboard
Two Turnigy TrackStar 1/5th Sensorless Brushless Motor 730KV (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=24850)
Two Turnigy Trackstar 1/5th Scale Sensorless 200amp 8s Opto Car ESC (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=24754)
Four ZIPPY Compact 5800mAh 8S 25C Lipo Pack
Turnigy HV SBEC 5A Switch Regulator (8-42V input) (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=18521)
Hobby King GT-2 2.4Ghz 2Ch Tx & Rx
750kv @8s... err.. whats your reduction mate? looks from your pic that it might be around 4:1 or so... so basically you've geared it for a top speed of 200km'h. even if thats a 8:1 ratio you're still geared for a top speed of 100km'h - waaaay too high, and would explain your hot motors and dead controllers. Bare in mind these controllers dont have any form of current limiting whatsoever, they rely solely on the back emf (electro voltage force, or 'volts' in lamens terms) of the motor to manage their amps. Essentially you would have been short circuiting your batteries via your controller and motor... the 'shaking' you experienced was the controllers struggling to sinc with the motor, kind of like knocking in a ICE, only far worse if allowed to continue more than a few seconds. quite frankly the fact that they lasted more than a minute, or worked at all with any body on the board speaks volumes about how good this controller actually is!!! I also wonder what your settings in the controller where during the ride (timing etc)?
To put this in perspective, my board is geared (at the moment) to about 45km'h. with the 8s cotroller, ill probably gear it to about 50. All other things being equal, that means the controller and motor will have to work FAR FAR less hard than yours did. you really need a 12:1 reduction at an absolute minimum with those motors. Basically its like trying to drive a car around with it constantly in 6th gear, without using the clutch.
I've used this controller on an ebike i've built, running a 8085 170kv motor... and one controller will push me up a 10% grade at about 25-30km'h, pulling abut 90A for about 30 seconds (to the top of the hill) and doesn't even get warm. this is without the fans running. So they seem pretty good to me... that said I havent done more than about 10min of testing so far...
edit
just thought I'd add in that if you've got long battery leads between your controller and battery, its a really good idea to add in some low esr caps as close as you can to your controller, particularly when running the controller at its max input voltage (ie 8s). this is due to voltage spikes that can be more than 5v above your packs no load voltage, potentially exceeding the max voltage that your controller can handle and damaging it, either immediately or over time. the caps help to 'soak up' these spikes and protect your controller. short battery leads help too, but nothing beats a bunch of caps.
Laureloke said:
Car esc's because they have forward/brake/reverse, and most have variable braking too (ie a range from 0 to 100% depending on throttle position, not just 0 or 100%). the controllers designed for planes will only have forwards, and maybe a drag brake (ie 100% braking if your at 0% throttle). they're also designed differently, they're meant for high rpms, high loads. car esc's handle low rpms low loads better (well, generally speaking). Reverse is always useful too. id reccomend the 150A car esc, and the 8s 200A car esc has had good reports so far... either will handle that motor fine (Though read the above about gearing it to the right speed first!!) You could also check out 'aliens' controllers, which have had some good results so far too.
grindz145
1 MW
Glitch Mob is a nice soundtrack too 
That board is wicked.
That board is wicked.
sn0wchyld
100 kW
cha bro!grindz145 said:Glitch Mob is a nice soundtrack too
That board is wicked.
its currently up on blocks though, i've redesigned the motor mounts to be far lighter and simper to attach/detach than the current ugly blob of aluminium. should be able to get it under 200g per motor mount (or very close too)... down from about 1kg or so right now
!! looks a bit prettier too.
grindz145
1 MW
A sign of progress.sn0wchyld said:
sn0wchyld said:
Reduction rate was 5.9:1.
Now I have a new motor 6374 149kv and new sprockets with reduction rate 8.9:1 - it's enough to ride with one motor.
Haven't found 8085 170kv motor - HK used to sell them.
I don't rememer last settings, but now they are:
Timing: Low (4)
punch control: 100%
brakes strangth: 0%
Cut off: Auto
Drag Brake: 0%
Reverse type: FWD to Brake and Reverse
sn0wchyld
100 kW
Laureloke said:
high timing is supposedly the best for the big 63+ series motors. dont ask me why though.. im only repeating what others have done, and what seems to have worked for me. sync seems allot better on high.
the 80 series is probably overkill for a mountain board though... unless you have some epic hill climbs, and even then multiple motors (4) is probably better (better offroad performance!) try ebay, and keep an eye out on ES as they do come up for sale from time to time.
8.9:1... dont you find it a bit slow? that would be a top speed of just 18km'h... though yea... it would climb any hill you could find.
Vapology
1 mW
Hey snow,
I know you've been using the Turnigy track star 200 for a while, how about a review of its performance. This is the esc im considering for my board. Are you still using 8s? Whats your config 4s in series or 8s in parallel? How many mah and what kind of run time are you getting?
Thanks
I know you've been using the Turnigy track star 200 for a while, how about a review of its performance. This is the esc im considering for my board. Are you still using 8s? Whats your config 4s in series or 8s in parallel? How many mah and what kind of run time are you getting?
Thanks
sn0wchyld
100 kW
Vapology said:
so far ive only used it on my bike with a 8085 motor... so far from a perfect 'test' when it comes to a mountainboard. it did seem to handle the 8085 pretty well, only loosing sink when I really hammered it in a higher gear, and even without the fans on it never got notably above ambient. two of them on 63 size motors geared for the 40's or so should work pretty well... but I'm still a week or so away from doing my own testing.
i was running 8s 15ah on the bike. will probably run 8s 15-25ah on the board - depends on how much weight I can endure adding. I want to go for 4wd eventually so weight of batteries is a concern.
im still using the 150a esc's that i reccomendded earlier - I did burn one but the others have worked well for quite some time now, so if your unsure go with them. otherwise wait another month or so and ill have some better feedback on the 200a escs.
torqueboards
1 MW
sn0wchyld said:
I'm currently riding a electric longboard and have dual 3250watt motors at 10S and it will seriously throw me off at the startup and I'm set at the lowest settings. I ride goofy and I can't tell you how many times I fell on my left arm. It's like sore 1 day and then fine the next then sore 1-2 days later, consistently. If I don't pay attention my ass is on the ground and my arm is hurting from catching myself falling. I wish I could make it lower. I'm a baby with the throttle and slightly increase it so I know I'm stuck on the board.
Occasionally, I'll just be relaxing riding and accidentally pull on the trigger to hard and the board flies underneath me and I fall backwards. Thing is dangerous if not paying attention.
How do you connect multiple ESC Receiver ends to 1 to put into the receiver?