Enertionboards.com | 5x1.5 Inch All-Terrain-Wheel

Chains are good. I think primarily belts have worked for us on pavement because of their weight, ease of maintenance and silence.
 
onloop said:
so after my test riding through dirt & mud & rocks.... im starting to think a chain is a better idea.... my belts got ripped to shreds. the pulley teeth got filled with shit etc.
Click to expand...

Funny you mention that. This weekend (probably Thursday) I got a rock wedged in my pulley teeth, and it lived there until I found it over the weekend when checking belts. Mind, I have a few hundred miles on these belts.

This morning I got terrible slipping on the back -- weird, because the front is the one which usually slips. The belt broke, probably where it ate that rock. I limped home (another 7 miles) on that mostly-broken belt, and just now replaced it with my spare, and I'm ordering chains from http://www.andymark.com/ -- hopefully the #25 will cut it.

A little guard would be enough to keep gravel out, but I don't ride in mud.
 
it seems there are PROS & CONS for both options...

i think a belt with some well designed enclosure will help a lot..... really can't allow stuff to build up in pulley teeth... its BAD

a chain without any enclosure will probably be very reliable..... and i think you could ride through more "dirty stuff"... but it will still get dirty & need lube.

either option seems like some basic maintenance is required & if the rider chooses to go through mud they can expect more problems no matter which option is used...
 
onloop said:
so after my test riding through dirt & mud & rocks.... im starting to think a chain is a better idea.... my belts got ripped to shreds. the pulley teeth got filled with shit etc.
20140826-112323.jpg


So my options are to make some type of protective cover to enclose the belt & pulleys as much as possible. OR just use a chain....

Can anyone give me reasons a chain is a bad idea.
Click to expand...

I never have a problem with the belts on my urban commuter as i only ride on rough pavements..this is where we are crossing over to MTB board...which I think is much better suited and all -MTB seems to use a chain drive.i assume its because of the bigger gear reduction needed..and slippage issues..
I didn't go down that route because i just think the MTB boards are too big to carry and use on the street.. its a question of fit for purpose....
One guy who is doing the MTB boards well is -hes really got it nice and slick looking.and even on 4wd... :D
https://www.facebook.com/raollingstones.eriderpaca?fref=ts
 
I am using 25 chain and it works perfect. No slipping and not making to much noise. I never lube it either. Compared to pulleys the sprockets look lighter and takes less space. If you made 25 chain sprockets to your 5 inch wheels I would buy them also. It can be difficult to center the sprockets perfectly onto the wheel.
 
A rock jumped into my brushless motor, did some circulating, and ripped up some copper cables and then causing a short to the esc. So that can also be a problem when riding to much dirt.
 
I think it's fair to say, where there is * there is someone who must ride through it.... ( * = dirt. Mud. Snakes. Rocks. Fire. Sand. Water. Etc)

What ever route I finally choose it needs to be nearly indestructible...
 
update....

1. rims have been milled & about to be anodized
2. rubber compound has been finalised & the tyres are about to be manufactured.
3. For those that have pre-ordered still a few weeks aways

I thought i would mention a few design features about these rims you may be interested in:
1. they have been made with a negative offset of 6mm, this gives more room for motors, which is good if you run dual-rear-drive & also provides room for wider belts if you choose. This also results in a slightly wider stance on the ground which may be beneficial for handling & cornering. I also think this will help spread the load onto the bearings slightly better, the bearings are now closer to the side the belt is on. Reducing the amount of leveraged forces on the bearings. Basically the assembled wheel & pulley are better balanced when assembled onto the truck axle.
ulq6


2. The bolt hole diameter is also at 44mm, hopefully making it better suited for anyone wanting to use a sprocket.
Ojqm



vM1F

EhYg

DLOdI
 
hi- also..looking at the milled parts..when putting them together in a tyre do the two halves join together concentrically?
or do you rely on the tyre rim to do that?
 
The pictures are of only one half so it doesn't clearly show how it works, this drawing will help.

0mUI
 
I'll be soon testing 3mm HTD Profile, 17t -to- 68t which gives 4:1 ratio. With wider belts.

5mm HTD works fine, but there are some limitations that make it not ideal.
 
beetbocks said:
I'm waiting on an order- what is the diameter of the bearing boss and what diameter are the 44mm holes?
Thanks
Click to expand...

bearing boss is 29.7mm

the bolts holes are for M5 bolts.
 
YEAH unexpected 2wk delay....

no other issues... ETA of 15th OCT is good.
 
Why is this the same feeling like looking at a bowl full of candy back when I was a child?

Hopefully I can upgrade from modded skike wheels some day :)
 
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