The motor can give double the power or more.
Stage 1: solder 30% of the shunt for a good jump in torque,
Stage 2: 36v battery for about 30% more speed and another jump in torque.
Stage 3: 12S lipo battery (44v nominal), new 15 amp 36v high-speed controller will give about 30mph down-hill.
Stage 4: solder the shunt for another jump in torque
Stages 3 and 4 should only be done if you don't have steep hill, or don't weigh too much. The standard controller will be dealing with about 300w from the battery. Stage 2 is double that and stage 4 is about 3 times the power. The motor can handle it, but will heat up on the hills.
With your battery case, you can just fit in a pair of 8aH 6S lipos, and you can get a 36v battery that is a direct replacement.
As soon as you go to 36v,you need to change the gearing bbecause you won't be able to pedal fast enough, You'll need a DNP rear free-wheel gear-set with 11T top gear. For 44v, you need to go to at least 48T on your front chain-wheel.
I did all these stages on the Cyclamatic, which has a similar motor to yours. It only overheats when going slowly at full throttle. I'm 100kg, so the motor still had a hard time.
Here's my thread on it and the missing pictures are in the photobucket link. In principle, everything should be the same on your bike.
http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/cyclamatic-the-beastamatic-is-dead-long-live-the-beastamatic.9857/
http://s451.photobucket.com/user/d8veh/library/Beastamatic?sort=3&page=1
Here's my thread on it and the missing pictures are in the photobucket link.. In princip[le, everything should be the same on your bike. Can we see a photo of it?: