Fast long-range cheap tourer[emoji2]

[markz]

Thanks for the compliment, Dogman. I lurked here for 15 years and read all your posts before I built that bike. The top bar battery actually hides between my knees when I'm riding. When I ride on rail trails nobody hardly knows it's an ebike. If I'm going less than 40 miles I just snap it off and use the triangle battery alone. The bike has a very small frame (16") so the top bar is low. I keep the seat low enough that I can put a foot down without getting off the seat. With that much battery I'm pedaling for looks and exercise, not so much for power.

Wow, I thought I procrastinated with lurking for a year or 2 before spending the money on a build. Its quite common from what Justin said in one of his presentations, I believe he mentioned that in his cross Canada tour presentation.

Thats the key 'nobody hardly knows it's an ebike' unless you are zooming up a hill fast, legs off the pedals and straight out. I actually had a kid film me on his cell phone while riding a 2km access road to picnic area, they were at the bmx jumps parking lot. I was really cruising fast and not pedaling.

 

[Mike_S]

Back in the day on rides of 100 to 165 km, ridden on road bikes or mountain bikes with road tires, the experience was: on the aero bars I could keep up, on the hoods or flat bars I was off the back. Long solo rides were always on the aero bars. They were modified to have higher and wider cups for comfort and folded up for riding the hoods or drops. Lots of cushioning on the cups was a good thing. I used higher placed cups because I was 45 kg overweight. The biggest problem was staying awake on long rides. Well, neck pain, burning boots and blazing saddle were other pain problems too. Oops, forgot numb hands.
Nothing wrong with drop road bars on an mtb or touring bike. Gravel bike drops are also an option.

If I were planning the riding you are, the bike would be full suspension, with low rolling resistance tires and using a triple road bike crank set, gearing would be something like 52 x 11. Toe clips or clipless would be important.

A rear direct drive hub motor should serve well. A torque sensing bottom bracket allows practical riding on the aero bars, no throttle to bother with. Not sure about rpm based PAS, perhaps a good combination could be found.

Like Dogman Dan mentioned, riding a little slower can add more range than would seem likely, my experience is the same.

Charging the battery to only 4 volts/cell and never discharging below about 3.5 volts per cell, for long battery life, should give battery cost of around 5 $US per 100 km over the life of the battery and would require more battery weight, bulk and up front cost than charging to 4.2 volts/cell and discharging to a lower voltage. But, battery cost per 100 km would be more, perhaps significantly so, when using a larger percentage of battery capacity on each ride.

I love what you are planning to ride. Keep us posted on what you do and how it works. The grand adventure continues ...

Mike thanks for the answer I am planning to match a hub motor with torque sensor. Also thanks for the tip of the triple for 52X11. I already have a triple so I will keep it and see how it goes [emoji4]

Sent from my Mi MIX 2 using Tapatalk

 

[Balmorhea]

I keep the seat low enough that I can put a foot down without getting off the seat. With that much battery I'm pedaling for looks and exercise, not so much for power.

Your knees might prefer that you put the seat where it belongs.

 

[ZeroEm]

Getting your bike geared to peddle at 50 kph is the first thing. I would like to do the same with out crazy chainring size's. I can peddle and contribute just above 37 kph for a while. some day will change out my 50T for a 53T. That should put me up there around 45 kph. If I replaced my 26" with 29" that would do it but will wait for a different build.

My longer rides you can measure two ways time and/or distance. Have a trail system a mile from my house. Started doing 50 mile rides on it, there is people, twists and turns it's hard for me to average over 24 kph so the rides take 4 hrs that includes a rest. One of these rides uses 500w to 1000w, depends how much of my energy is contributed.

Started riding the country side took off my speed limits my trike will do 53 kph but makes me tired. My last ride 4 months ago was 56 miles in 2.5 hrs includes a rest, used 1300 watts + or - did not track it that close. This was a fast ride for me and at times would slow down going up hills so I could peddle hard and save the battery. I should be able to do 80 miles like this but if I slowed down to 24 kph could come close to 150 miles might be over optimistic. had to take some time off but will be back at it soon.

 

[markz]

rides

What battery voltage and Ah?

 

[ZeroEm]

Was trying not to tell, just trying to show how you vary or increase the distance with lower speeds and more peddle power. I'm unable to push to hard on the peddles but can do 25-100w for hours and or ride with out power at 16 - 24 kph for hours can hit speeds of 32 kph with out power for a mile or two but puts to much pressure on my back. This is less than you and i'm reclined and have skinny front road tires.

by markz » Sep 27 2020 11:40pm
What battery voltage and Ah?

Have a 15lb, 72V, 24ah battery mounted between my front wheels in a bag (camouflage) . The pic ------->
When the battery was new 18 months ago it should have been 1800w but did not test it. Have only charge to 100% 5 times, most of the time only charge to 80% and draw down to 60% and a few times 50-40%. Only average charge it every 3 weeks, depends how I ride. Have two groups that I ride with. Neighbors - 16-24kph keep pas off and use throttle on any hills for short burst and only 20 miles max, Road bikers 24-38kph use pas around 100-300w, up to 30 miles. I ride by my self and try to keep it at my peddling limits and then it depends on what I feel like doing, burn some fat or amps. Can not do high cadence 80 and above for long (<40kph) so need a bigger ring gear or wheel. When my speed is up to 50kph I don't peddle, this is mostly on down slopping roads or down hills, going up mostly slow down so I can help, mostly to save amps. There is low rolling hills here but would be considered flat. I run 72V and ordered my motor 7T/6.5Kv to bring the speed down just above the speed limit of 46kph/28mph, This raise's my torque for hills (This in no way means high turn motors have more torque). My trike can easily do 53 on the flats, the steepest hill here can keep it 32-40kph. Have my amps set with the batteries max continuous draw 36a not max for a few seconds 60a bms, have my max power limits at 2600w, keep my power switch set on low (currently around 1100w).

This is a lot of reading.

Have two batteries for a total 48ah but one is all that is needed at the moment. Here is were we get into weight, i'm 6'2", 260lbs, my trike is 40lbs, Battery, motor, controller and extra tubes, tools, water maybe another 40lbs. Makes you go faster down hill, not an issue on flats but pull a hill and you start looking for the boat anchor your dragging.

This is just me and my setup and riding style. Yours will be all about you. DogMan and many others do and have done long rides, they have a lot to teach, I'm fairly new at this but I know you need to make the ride as easy on yourself as you can. As fast as you ride it would not take much to put you over 34kph and the faster you go above 32 kph the more wind you push and the more power you will need. So you slow down or go aerodynamic. 48 kph is not crazy but it takes a lot less power to do 40, 32 or all day at 24kph.