fibre glassing on wood ??

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Dec 14, 2012
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Location
norfolk, uk , england
im wanting to make a battery box to go into the triangle of my bike, i was thinking of making the shap out of wood then fibreglassing it but not useing a gellcoat on top but just painting it after sanding it,

question ,, how can i get the fibreglass off of the wood after its shaped and formed, and, will it be ok just to paint it and not use the gellcoat??
 
I have read about several projects that glued sections of styrofoam together to make a block. Then the final outer shape was easily cut, and then fibre-glassed over. After the shell hardens, the interior is easily gutted, and the final bits can be dissolved with gasoline. Just a thought...

styrofoam-cooler.jpg
 
thanks m8 ,, just looked on the auction website, the prices are realy to much, unless i cab find some where local with a skip. but i dont know what sort of place might have some off cuts,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=styrofoam+blocks&LH_PrefLoc=1&_sop=15
 
Use cardboard or corrugated paper board, whatever it's called in the UK. Cover it with clear or brown colored packaging tape, and smear some wax over it.

It will not soak in hardly with the tape, and, you can tear it off pretty easily.

Be sure to support the box, so it cures to the correct dimensions. Just how big of a box are you needing ?

I was in the boat building industry for many years off and on. Used glass and resin a lot.

Resin dries a bit sticky, so, once it's set up, put it in the sun to draw off the sticky part. Then, wash it with acetone, sand it as smooth as you want, and apply an activated 2 part paint.
 
Make it out of thin .. 3 -4 mm ply wood, then laminate the GF onto it.
The ply will be light weight but add a ton on strength to the FG. Less FG needed also.
Use woven cloth matting both sides, and colored resins with "surfacing" additives..black is always good.
 
You're saying you want to use wood to make a one off mold. Excellent idea. I'll get into that, but first:

The EPS foam pictured, as well as the blue foam known as Styrofoam, will dissolve the moment it comes in contact with the polyester resin one uses with fiberglas, as well as the slightly better/more expensive vinylester. If you used it with a resin that wouldn't dissolve it, such as epoxy, it would destroy the surface of the finished product. You can dissolve EPS, Styrofoam, etc., with the semienvironmentally friendly citric acid. Acetone works better, but that's like a health risk to you as you use it. BUT you can make whatever you want out of the goo, which will harden up solid.

If you want to make a mold, first think draft angle. U is harder to remove your part from than V. The open top could be a half inch bigger than the bottom and it'll be easier to demold. Let's say you use either wood or cardboard (Masking tape has worked well for me) to make your master model of the finished box. First you hotcoat it, take some of the polyester resin and mix in some acetone, all the way to 50:50 if you like, then add your catalyst at 2-3% of your resin. This will soak in well to your wood or cardboard. Sand it, seal it (Primer finisher rather than plain paint) and then release it. PVA (Poly Vinyl Alcohol) or plain release wax. NOT car wax, that has things in it that will activate and STICK.

http://www.rexco-usa.com/waxes-buffing-compound/

http://www.freemansupply.com/PartallFilm10.htm

Among other things, you can cast your mold from plaster. Or instead of making a master model, you make your mold itself from the wood or cardboard and hotcoat, seal and release it as told, then layup inside of it.

When I was a kid I thought the resin itself was fiberglas. I used old cotton diapers as the reinforcement, which worked okay. I used cardboard and resin with old sheets to make tuff boxes, which you could do, except today's sheets might dissolve in polyester resin, haven't tried it lately. Again, hotcoat to provide a good surface the resin can bite when you laminate it. Some spray adhesive to hold edges in place as you laminate works wonders. (I'm still learning my lesson on that one.) http://www.uline.com/BL_8051/Spray-Adhesive

More fun, you could make it out of a castable plastic instead of fiberglas. Perhaps a brush on solid foam urethane right onto your plaster mold. Or you can pour on and swirl the mold around to keep the resin on the sides a few minutes until it sets up. I haven't had a chance to work with this company's "Tuff Stuff" which is different from Mattel "Tuff Stuff." http://www.smooth-on.com/a121/NEW-Flex-Foam-iT!-4-Tuff-Stuff-Pourable-Urethane-Foam/article_info.html

http://www.smooth-on.com

This site has 28 mold making videos, plus others you might find relevant.

http://www.smooth-on.com/media.php

Oh, getting back to that goo from the EPS dissolving, you could make your box out of that, (Got any old coffee cups?) but of course you need something to mold it to.
 
Instead of thinking a monolithic "plug" that needs to be removed, why not build your box out of wood or wood product, then re-enforce it with fiberglass?

A simple box made from 1/8" hard board, hot glued together, radius the corners a little, glass the exterior in a couple steps, cut the box in 1/2 or wherever you want a door in it. then glass the interior for maximum durability.

For a 1-off made over a foam plug, I advocate aluminum foil as a barrier to keep the resin from the foam if using polyester resins. A little foam safe spray glue & a squidgie will produce a very nice surface & is very removable.
 
great lots of ideas ,, i will read the threads on the other links, the idea of useing fibreboard and glass over that seems a good idea and will help to keep the weight down,
 
marty said:
Look here
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=24382&hilit=resin+styrofoam
Fiberglass battery case


Thanks for this link!
 
depending on the weight and position of the battery you could also consider plastic sheet.. good variety of colors...light weight/// 1/4" ...quick and easy ... most suppliers will cut tyo size for you...use the right adhesive...it melds the two suraces together..quite strong...add 2 or 3 tightly wrapped velcro strips for added support :mrgreen:
 
When we were building boat bulkheads in the Caribbean we just put paste wax over plywood. Polyester resin doesn't stick to wood. We just used a wedge to pry them off. Other moulds we used compressed air to pop them off. However, if it's a box, it might be more difficult to remove. But if you make a little port that can have compressed air injected it can come off
If you make the box out of 3/4 plywood and steam it, once the wood dries out it will shrink and can be removed more easily
 
Polyester resin sticks to wood. Wood is not easy to glue, but it can be made to stick well. You can in fact join two pieces of wood so well that the wood itself will break before the joint will.

If the wood is hotcoated it can make a great surface for a wet layup, but it will need to be released. Also for all the mentioning food wrap and such, no one mentioned that butcher paper is a good surface for a layup.
 
In my experience, Polyester resin does not stick to GLAD or SARAN plastic wrap. Spend some time getting the wrinkles out.
 
Saran wrap just melts into the polyester.
The mold release agent is called PVA mold release.
 
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