Final parts still needed to make e board.

[Wroxsti]

I thought I had all the pieces until I laid them all out. How do I charge these batteries? I just assumed the charger would plug into my 120v wall socket. I charger 208b has no wall plug...

Being that I'm running these 2 6s batteries as 1 6s power supply I think I will need some type of Y splitter for the rainbow wires for charging. Is there a name for that wire assembly so I can buy that on eBay or some other place.
Maybe there are some other things I need...

 

[torqueboards]

You need a power supply for the iCharger 208B.

I suggest either HK 350W and/or HK 550W (I think). You'll also need a 3 prong plug too.

 

[psychotiller]

One of these:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__43873__JST_XH_Parallel_Balance_Lead_6S_250mm_2xJST_XH_USA_warehouse_.html?strSearch=6s%20parallel%20jst

This is going to be one of the cleanest looking hub motor builds! Can wait to see it together.

 

[tremendo]

I will be building with the same motor soon.
Are the two black boxes on the left some sort of ESC?
How are you setting up dual ESC or VESC?
Are these links helpful? But check them out:
http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/vesc-faq-best-settings-for-hub-motors/212
http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/vesc-faq-connect-two-vesc-via-canbus-for-dual-motors/142
Can't wait to see your build !

 

[made_in_the_alps_legacy]

seems like a 2 x 6s set up, ESC look like Favourite FVT Brave Wolf 150A Brushless Car ESC

 

[sl33py]

a good AC to DC power supply is needed. You can go with the HK 350/550. Another alternative is using a converted server power supply. You can find them on ebay for $35-40. Usually some banana plugs output to connect to your charger and significantly higher output. 750w 50+A. I got two for about $70 which gives me 1500w and 24v output at around 60A i believe. Way more than i need, but the ichargers do like >12v!

GL!

You definitely don't need a monster power supply for only two batteries - you'd really probably not even notice an improvement unless you were charging several at once.

In order to charge multiple at the same time i recommend a parallel charging board. You can get a nicer one from BuddyRC (paraboard) or ebay/amazon has several as well.

 

[LEVer]

I thought I had all the pieces until I laid them all out. How do I charge these batteries? I just assumed the charger would plug into my 120v wall socket. I charger 208b has no wall plug...

...

You can use this one and they just plug in, depending on your battery connectors: http://www.hobbypartz.com/thac6smbachw.html Or this one and have free shipping: http://www.hobbypartz.com/73p-ac680-accharger.html

 

[mccloed]

Just curious, What power switch is that?

 

[Wroxsti]

Great. Thanks! I got the hk 350 and balance lead splitter on order.
When connecting the esc's (fvt 120a esc) dose one go to Chanel 1 and the other Chanel 2?
Should I be wiring in a fuse some place to protect these electronics. Maybe a fuse with a reset Botton?

I'm a little concerned about how to attach the inclosure to the board. Short wood screws should do the trick. Being that the deck has a W concave the inclosure doesn't lay flat. I can imagine that once I get it screwed down I will not be able to open and close it again with out the possibility of stripping the screw holes.
Additionally I don't want my electronics bouncing around in the enclosure. Should I stuff cardboard in there, or maybe I could find some sheets of styrofoam to wrap it in...

Thanks guys

 

[Wroxsti]

Just curious, What power switch is that?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Switch-With-XT-60-And-8-Cable-Large-16-AWG-Silicon-Wire-Aluminum-Anodized-/291045676765

 

[psychotiller]

I usually use Velcro to attach my components to the board. If you use t-nuts you'll be able to unscrew the cover anytime you need too. Also, it will enable you to really get a good fit with the enclosure.

 

[Wroxsti]

If you use t-nuts you'll be able to unscrew the cover anytime you need too. Also, it will enable you to really get a good fit with the enclosure.

Sweet! These are a must.
Now I just need to drill out and file out a hole in the inclosure for the esc's to pop through.

 

[psychotiller]

Yuuup! Lay out your parts on your board. Secure them, with tape or Velcro, then use cardboard to do your cutouts. That's how I do it. Then once your holes are perfectly layed out in the cardboard you can use it as a stencil on your enclosure.

 

[torqueboards]

Checkout these thumb screws...

http://www.mcmaster.com/#thumb-screws/=zdprj9

 

[Wroxsti]

This project is proving to be a little more challenging than anticipated. (Maybe I'm not reading enough)
The HK350 I ordered has arrived and there is no 110v power plug. It does have an input for a 220v but no cord. I have a 240v plug in the garage that I guess I could use but still need a cord. Should I return this thing? Can I get a cord some place for it? It would be nice to plug in my board to a standard 110v that way I could take this thing with me anywhere and charge it as long as I bring the charger. Is it just my luck that I can't order the right parts or do all you guys charge with 240v?

 

[psychotiller]

I charge 110v. That's pretty bad ass though. If you have the hook up (which I don't) and most of your charging is going to be in your garage I'd just keep it and maybe look for a smaller version for road trips.

 

[sl33py]

Same as Psycho - 110v here as well.

I would return and get a 110v or 110-220v AC/DC power supply. Otherwise you need two and it's not a cheap solution. Even if you are going to charge in your garage i bet you have more 110v plugs than 220v plugs right? And that is an odd plug to get to the mickey mouse plug for the power supply. Going to be complicated to find the right cord would be my guess.

Return it. Get the 110v version, or another online that will work for you.

GL!

 

[Wroxsti]

-Power supply is on its way back. I have an icharger but need a power supply with a power cord. Would be nice if the HK 350w came with one! Thinking of ordering the thunder AC6 (and trying to sell the icharger) however non of the connections look familiar. What kind of adapter would i need to make the connection? There has to be an easier way of doing this.

-Noticed the power switch wires are only 16 awg while battery wires are 12.
can you guys point me in the direction of a 12 awg wired on/off switch?

-To wire the batteries with 2 esc’s and a charge lead Im counting that i need 3 Parallel adapters with variouse connections. batteries parallel via hxt4 to female xt60 adapter to xt60 paralle adapter followed by a power switch followed by a standard parallel xt60 (1 for esc’s other for charge lead) followed by another parallel xt60 to 2 female t plugs for each ESC. It all needs to be 12 gauge wire.
What kind of adapter goes on the charge lead?
Did i do that correct? (my head kind of hurts trying to manage all these different connections) what else am i forgetting?

 

[torqueboards]

350W HK power supply is about $40 bucks + a 3 prong power cord which you can buy on ebay. Standard 3 prong. The HK 350w doesn't come with a power cord and you can buy that on eBay for $2-3 bucks.

I think the Thunder AC6 is also a decent charger.

iCharger is great though and worth every penny. It's actually pretty cheap for a quality charger.

The connectors on chargers are usually just 4mm bullet connectors. You can use a parallel charging board to charge up to 6 packs in parallel. You can also solder your own 4mm connector to your battery and use 4mm bullet connectors. Parallel charge board is better IMO.

What do you mean by the power switch?

Charge lead you can use 4mm bullet connectors which plug directly into your charger. Your charger needs to support the voltage of your pack though when you connect it.

 

[Wroxsti]

I just got back from the local hobby RC shop and the guy there put female t plugs on my batteries. told me all i gotta do is plug the battery into the speed controller. he sold me a speed control wire splitter, so I can have both esc's plug into chanel 2 of the receiver.
There will be no charge lead (atleast for now). I plan on making access in the middle of the enclosure to unplug the batteries and plug them into a charger.

I found a PC power supply. Guy at hobby shop helped me with finding the connections and put in some female bullet plugs.
I think this means all i need to do now is program the esc's. Split open the battery packs. hope it all fits...

by power switch i meant an on/off switch. i was told this is not a good idea. just unplug the batteries.

I asked the guys at the hobby shop about a parallel charging board. they say its not a good idea. charge one at a time... I need to find a good safe solution for this. it should be easy to charge.

 

[LEVer]

you can use this as your power switch. seller is just in Redwood City. http://www.ebay.com/itm/200-AMP-12V-DC-CIRCUIT-BREAKER-REPLACE-FUSE-200A-12-24V-DC-FAST-FREE-USA-SHIP-/390474856510 . I would suggest using this as it's a pain to unplug t plugs/deans. I find xt90 connectors easier to use/unplug. There is even an xt90 with anti-spark, works like a charm.

I will at least try and hook up one motor to one esc and a battery just to get familiar with the connections. Plug in the remote and run it on the bench, no riding yet. Then check the other motor and other components. All you really need to pay attention to is the polarity of the batteries. Everything else is ok. Always do the battery connection last.

Also, I would really recommend learning how to solder so you can change connectors easily and/or extend your wires or something. Also, buy a heat gun and lots of heat-shrinks.

 

[Wroxsti]

If I used that switch I'm assuming I would need 2 or could I wire both blacks in there?

I tried connecting the motor and power to the esc. the light came on solid on channel 2. i tried all 6 wire configurations from motor to esc and did the trigger and wheel on the transmitter but got nothing but the esc fan...

I'll look into the tx90 adapter after a few successful rides.

 

[LEVer]

If I used that switch I'm assuming I would need 2 or could I wire both blacks in there?

From appleman6161 thread, Electric Longboard Building Using Carvon Dual Electric Hubs

The board is centered around the 200 amp fuse which I have connected to the negative terminals of both batteries and then split to to the negative leads on the ESC's. The positive leads from the batteries are connected together, then each run to a separate ESC. This preserves the parallel nature of the power source through the entire board. The fuse serves as the main ON/OFF switch and is accessible through a small hole in the enclosure. I also mounted a small LCD voltage indicator to monitor battery voltage. It is connected to monitor the battery leads after the fuse and is powered on via a small power cable to an extra channel on the receiver so it turns on and off with the board.

The thread also has link to photos on flicker and he also uses FVT escs.

I tried connecting the motor and power to the esc. the light came on solid on channel 2. i tried all 6 wire configurations from motor to esc and did the trigger and wheel on the transmitter but got nothing but the esc fan...

Did you bind the transmitter and the receiver already?

 

[Wroxsti]

The manual says that they are already matched in the factory. Guess I could try matching again. The English in this manual is not very good

 

[Wroxsti]

i got the batteries, esc's and motors connected. all appears to be ok. wiring from esc to motor appears to give 2 correct wiring configurations. Went through the program card settings but left it as is. anything in the program settings i should change?

earlier this week i took a pc power supply into a hobby shop. The rep there attached 2 female bullet connectors. Turns our he didnt attach the correct wires. i got the volt meter out and only found 2 hot wires out of about 30 or so. One green (4v) i think and a purple wire (4.9v).
the icharger 208b i have shows that the input can be 4.5-32.0 vdc.

was hope'n i could make this pc power supply work but I'm not sure anymore. the AC6 is looking good... thought i was done spending $$.
I am using an analog volt meter, and im not 100% sure im using it correctly.