One of the motors in that CL ad looks like the right one.
First E bike A2B need help.
- Thread starter Gwest
- Start date
I haven't seen a Gen 2 in person, so not very familiar with the layout, but yes you would need either a A2B external controller or a generic controller mounted outside the frame. I have heard unfavorable reports about the Gen 2 controller, so I wouldn't recommend it.
Actually, in your position, I would have to broaden the options to incude a third:
OR
#3). Gen 1 or Gen 2 motor with external generic controller.
It would also depend upon more details of 'fechters' unfavourable reports regarding the Gen 2 controller.
As far as I know, there is no difference in power output etc between Gen 1 & Gen 2 actual motors?
I chose to be 'stuck' with the Gen 1 in-hub controller, including it's over-sensitive thermo cut out, until such time as it fried itself completely and required total replacement - with an external generic unit!
Otherwise, I'd probably go your #2 route, as at least any other serious controller glitches could be dealt with without splitting the bloody hub in order to do so!
OR
#3). Gen 1 or Gen 2 motor with external generic controller.
It would also depend upon more details of 'fechters' unfavourable reports regarding the Gen 2 controller.
As far as I know, there is no difference in power output etc between Gen 1 & Gen 2 actual motors?
I chose to be 'stuck' with the Gen 1 in-hub controller, including it's over-sensitive thermo cut out, until such time as it fried itself completely and required total replacement - with an external generic unit!
Otherwise, I'd probably go your #2 route, as at least any other serious controller glitches could be dealt with without splitting the bloody hub in order to do so!
Setting up a generic controller should be fairly straightforward other than where to mount the controller.
The issue with the factory controller I heard was some kind of feature that causes it to stop if you hit a bump in the road and you have to cycle power to get it started again. I can't verify this is true but was from someone maintaining a rental fleet.
The issue with the factory controller I heard was some kind of feature that causes it to stop if you hit a bump in the road and you have to cycle power to get it started again. I can't verify this is true but was from someone maintaining a rental fleet.
Fair price on the Gen 2 wheel etc.
On the rear rack frame might be a good place to mount a generic controller.
Then a standard Metro slide-on 2nd rear battery could also go underneath later if required?
So the Gen 2 doesn't like bumps in the road! Strange.. was that an isolated case or do they all apparently do it?
Sounds like a bad connection in the standard wiring might also cause the same thing?
Quieter & more efficient (and by the sounds of it, more reliable) with a good generic controller anyway, I reckon.
On the rear rack frame might be a good place to mount a generic controller.
Then a standard Metro slide-on 2nd rear battery could also go underneath later if required?
So the Gen 2 doesn't like bumps in the road! Strange.. was that an isolated case or do they all apparently do it?
Sounds like a bad connection in the standard wiring might also cause the same thing?
Quieter & more efficient (and by the sounds of it, more reliable) with a good generic controller anyway, I reckon.
E-Glider said:
From what I heard they all do it. It was a design feature. I think it was supposed to kill power if the bike tips over, but just a big bump could accidentally trigger it.
Hillhater
100 TW
Very frustrating this thread !
I have a near new Gen 2 hub/wheel and external controller +throttle etc etc ( +frame battery !) in my garage gathering dust !.you would be welcome to it,.but freight would make shipping impractical ! (Australia !)
Point to note..
The external A2B controller (500W rated ?) needs a seriously modified frame to install.
Its a weird shaped open unit designed to be part of the frame and includes all the battery switch relays etc...all heavily potted and impossible to identify connections
I dont think its practical to use that controller on a gen 1 frame easily..
Use a generic controller..it will be a simpler and neater install
..sorry i couldnt help more
..and yes, i can confirm the random cut out/reset issue on the Gen2 ( mine was a Velocity)...a very annoying trait that wasnt always due to a bump...often just random ?
Another good reason to not use A2B controllers.
I have a near new Gen 2 hub/wheel and external controller +throttle etc etc ( +frame battery !) in my garage gathering dust !.you would be welcome to it,.but freight would make shipping impractical ! (Australia !)
Point to note..
The external A2B controller (500W rated ?) needs a seriously modified frame to install.
Its a weird shaped open unit designed to be part of the frame and includes all the battery switch relays etc...all heavily potted and impossible to identify connections
I dont think its practical to use that controller on a gen 1 frame easily..
Use a generic controller..it will be a simpler and neater install
..sorry i couldnt help more
..and yes, i can confirm the random cut out/reset issue on the Gen2 ( mine was a Velocity)...a very annoying trait that wasnt always due to a bump...often just random ?
Another good reason to not use A2B controllers.
Quick note:
Maybe your frustration is confusing you?
I am in Australia, yes - but 'Gwest' OP who requires parts, appears to be in RedWoodCity?
Do you mean A2B also altered the 'Metro' frame config in order to fit their Gen 2 controller?
I have never seen one in the flesh, but assumed that it fairly easily just replaced the Gen 1 Frame cap/switch module/wiring hairball there?
Hopefully OP decides to go for a generic controller anyway - and perhaps your wheel?
Maybe your frustration is confusing you?
I am in Australia, yes - but 'Gwest' OP who requires parts, appears to be in RedWoodCity?
Do you mean A2B also altered the 'Metro' frame config in order to fit their Gen 2 controller?
I have never seen one in the flesh, but assumed that it fairly easily just replaced the Gen 1 Frame cap/switch module/wiring hairball there?
Hopefully OP decides to go for a generic controller anyway - and perhaps your wheel?
Hillhater
100 TW
No,..its because i am in Australia, and Gwest is in Redwood USA !
Aussie Post prices would make it a $200 wheel !
This is the external controller from a Metro..
Aussie Post prices would make it a $200 wheel !
This is the external controller from a Metro..
Gwest
100 mW
- Joined
- May 8, 2019
- Messages
- 35
Cheers: I’m in Redwoodcity but both my parents are from Aus. Sidney (Dad) Pamarada (Mom)
So it sounds like my best thing to do is go with a aftermarket controller & wheel.
I’m in need of some Help! Fletcher can you help me ? I could drop off the bike and pay you for your time and labor parts and what ever
So it sounds like my best thing to do is go with a aftermarket controller & wheel.
I’m in need of some Help! Fletcher can you help me ? I could drop off the bike and pay you for your time and labor parts and what ever
Unfortunately I don't have time for any more projects, but I have a whole bike with a dead battery that can be parted out.
Gwest said:
Yeah.. getting pretty wintery down-under at the moment, so your not missing much mate!
Guys, would I be right in thinking that the A2B Gen 2 wheel/hub would NOT need to be split, in order to hook it up to a generic external contoller - unlike the Gen 1 version?
If so, that might be the easiest option for you ~ at least then you'd 'only' be on a re-wiring mission, rather than a full hub strip-down too?
E-Glider said:Guys, would I be right in thinking that the A2B Gen 2 wheel/hub would NOT need to be split, in order to hook it up to a generic external contoller - unlike the Gen 1 version?
If so, that might be the easiest option for you ~ at least then you'd 'only' be on a re-wiring mission, rather than a full hub strip-down too?
Yes, as far as I can tell you would only need to mess with the wires and not need to open the motor.
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