First E-Bike build! ADVICE NEEDED!

[camerons98]

So i've finally decided to go for it and convert my old bike into a powerful electric bike!
My old bike is the Carrera Kraken 2014 edition which I thought would be suitable to put quite a powerful motor on..

My main goals for this project are:
- keep it looking like a normal bike as much as possible (I will design a backpack to put the controller and battery in and conceal all wires)
- I'd favor torque over speed (as long as i can go around 30 mph)
- My budget is around £600 British pounds (I can go a little over if necessary)
- Range isn't too much of an issue (although 30 miles would be decent)
- Has to fit on my kraken bike

So in my research so far I've come to the conclusion that a rear mounted hub motor would be best for what I want, and I'd most likely want a thumb throttle.
I've put together a list of parts that are around the £600 mark and any opinions would be greatly appreciated, i'm getting a bit stuck on what size rims and spokes to get which is my main concern.

Parts list:
Motor: Crystalyte HT 3525 Torque edition - 2000W Rear hub motor (http://fasterbikes.eu/en/motors/86-crystalyte-hs3525-torque-motor-front-or-rear.html)
Controller: 40A 36-72V Grintech 12 fet IRFB4110 Controller (http://fasterbikes.eu/en/controller/135-40a-36-72v-infineon-12-fet-irfb4110.html?)
Thumb Throttle: http://fasterbikes.eu/en/throttle-brake-cruise-pas/124-thumb-trottle-left-or-right-side-index.html
Torque arm: http://fasterbikes.eu/en/parts/108-crystalyte-torque-arm.html
Battery Cells: Samsung INR18650-29E 18650 cells (http://sinpool.en.alibaba.com/produ...29e_Samsung_INR18650_29E_2900mAh_Purple_.html)
Battery Arrangement: 13S5P (65 cells in total) which would give me 48v when each cell is charged to 3.7v and just under 15aH which should get me my 30 miles
Rim: 26" Crystalyte Electric Bike rim (http://shop.crystalyte-europe.com/product.php?productid=16516)
Spokes: Crystalyte 164 mm 12G stainless steel black (http://shop.crystalyte-europe.com/product.php?productid=16502&cat=275&page=1)

The total cost for all those parts including shipping is pretty much bang on £600.. so.. are all these parts compatible, should I just go for it?

Any improvements would be greatly appreciated, I'm new to the scene.

Thanks,
Cameron.

 

[fellow]

Welcome!

I think that Panasonic NCR18650PF are better choice than samsung 29e's. Samsung are rated 2,75A cont, 8,25A at high 70'C peak discharge. Panasonic are rated 10A cont, 18A peak. You can order them here http://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/18650-size.html or here https://www.akkuteile.de/lithium-ionen-akkus/18650/
I prefer akkuteiles real-deal tabs vs nkons thinner ones. Non-tabbed cells are identical, a bit cheaper at nkon.

Tab cells are more expensive than non-tab cells, but you will thank every € invested when you start soldering. It makes the process so much more fun. If you choose non-tabed cells, use the soldering flux or even better skip the soldering because of high temperature and use the modular crimping wide area 18650 contacts.

I'm guessing that you are EU-based, most afordable 36H 25mm wide, 26" rims are those (15€/piece):
http://26bikes.com/shop/parts/rims-and-rim-tapes/dirt-street/prod/ex-dh26
Your rims linked above are only 19mm wide, how wide tyre are you planing to use?

Skip the 12G spokes, it's mission impossible because you can't tension them right (too fat). 13G are pain in the ass to work with, but doable. 14G are a bit thin, but definitely better choice than 12G. You can buy 13G (or 14G if you choose that) "head only" tool at ebay and use it with your cordless drill if you own the vice. SImply cut them and roll them to the right dimension. Instead of Hozan, use the vice to fix the spoke directly. It worked better than I expected. Great youtube video that inspired me to test it:
[youtube]UJXopdiz7nE[/youtube]

 

[mateusleo]

By a backpack to place controller, battery and wire harness you actually mean a backpack? Thats not the way i'd go. Carrying a bomb at my back? No thanks. Also, its quite heavy, i preview spine damage. For the components itself, it would be too shaky in your back. Go for a triangle bag, they are neat, cheap, easy to install, not ugly. If your budget gets tight you can always build a battery pack from dead notebook packs. What happens in notebook packs is that they usually have 3s2p cells, one 2p dies and the pack stops working, but there are still 4 good cells. You can get them, usually, *for free* at notebook mainintence shops, they use to have many and they don't have what to do with it.

 

[camerons98]

fellow
Will the panasonic cells be rated for the same amount of cycles though? and I was going to somehow find a spot welder and make the bank that way rather than soldering so the tabs aren't necessary.

I have no idea whether a thicker rim would fit on my bike though, i'm a bit of an idiot when it comes to bikes so you'd have to tell me how I can check.. I was just planning on using the tyre I currently have on?

I've never even put spokes on a rim in my life so I have no idea, i've watched a few youtube tutorials and it doesn't seem too difficult I know to have a 1 cross pattern but I'd rather not mess on with any drill on my rim

mateusleo
maybe you're right, that idea is still up in the air.. I want to make it as elegant looking as possible though

and I wanted to buy new cells just so i'd have reassurance that they're all working and the same though but thanks for the suggestion!

 

[fellow]

We still argue if the NCR18650PF cells are used in Tesla or not (8 year warranty if I'm not mistaken). I used them for one year, depleated them to 0V, abused them in any way possible. My range is still 18.2km, the same as the first day. I'm using only 26 of them, and they have the same mass and capacity as the Samsungs 29e. They should have the same, if not better life expectancy.

Rims19c vs 25c). Tire width is in mm.

 

[wesnewell]

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=66302

Ok, the H3525 isn't a 2000W motor, nor will it do 30Mph on 48V. IIRC it rated for 1200W. The rim is way too narrow. Controller too expensive. Frankly you should look on ebay for a 48V 1000W kit and then think about the battery pack.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=48v+1000w+rear&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=1

 

[camerons98]

Okay thanks fellow I will go for the Panasonic cells!

and okay i'm guessing i should increase my rim width since 2 of you have now suggested it.. how can I make sure that a 25mm thick rim will fit on my bike?

and wesnewell I was just going off the specifications that crystalyte give on their product page.. they state that it is a 2000W motor? Product page (http://shop.crystalyte-europe.com/product.php?productid=16445&cat=295&page=1)
Do you have any specific suggestions for the controller then, I'd preferably spend a little more on one that's going to last a long time?

 

[fellow]

You can read SI/metric designation written on the tire. For example, my Schwalbe Super Moto 26" x 2.35" are even marked 60-559. 60 is the width in mm. For that tire, 19c is too small, and 25c is marked with x=OK. 25c is appropriate rim for tires/tyres from 44mm to 62mm wide.

 

[camerons98]

I've just gone out and checked and the rim I already have on the bike is a double wall rim and the tyre is a 55-559 tyre, aren't these already suitable for an e-bike?

 

[wesnewell]

Okay thanks fellow I will go for the Panasonic cells!

and okay i'm guessing i should increase my rim width since 2 of you have now suggested it.. how can I make sure that a 25mm thick rim will fit on my bike?

and wesnewell I was just going off the specifications that crystalyte give on their product page.. they state that it is a 2000W motor? Product page (http://shop.crystalyte-europe.com/product.php?productid=16445&cat=295&page=1)
Do you have any specific suggestions for the controller then, I'd preferably spend a little more on one that's going to last a long time?

I use 32mm rims with 2.4" tires and would never go back to 25mm rims unless I was going to use uner 2" tires which I would never do.
They state a 250-2000W output power. That's not the motors watt rating.
My 72V 1500W 40A controller cost $35 shipped. Been using it 4 years running at 88.8V for the last 3 years. If you buy into hype, you're going to waste a lot of money. Personally I wouldn't buy a Crystalyte product. Overrated and overpriced imo and others. If you buy a kit, the controller will come with it.

 

[camerons98]

I use 32mm rims with 2.4" tires and would never go back to 25mm rims unless I was going to use uner 2" tires which I would never do.
They state a 250-2000W output power. That's not the motors watt rating.
My 72V 1500W 40A controller cost $35 shipped. Been using it 4 years running at 88.8V for the last 3 years. If you buy into hype, you're going to waste a lot of money. Personally I wouldn't buy a Crystalyte product. Overrated and overpriced imo and others. If you buy a kit, the controller will come with it.

So what the difference with using a slightly thicker tyre then?
and i've found a cheap deal for a MXUS 3000W motor and I know their are quite a lot of threads on this forum about it so it must be a highly rated motor, I can get it for around £300 with a controller, thoughts on it?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MXUS-V2-e...13?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item3aaac25e4d

 

[fellow]

I've just gone out and checked and the rim I already have on the bike is a double wall rim and the tyre is a 55-559 tyre, aren't these already suitable for an e-bike?

Motors are usually 36H (H=holes), some bicycles are 32H. You have to count the spoke holes if you want to use your old rim. If it matches the motor holes than you are good to go. 55mm tyre is a good choice.

MXUS 3000W is the beast, but weights 8kg. If your MTB is full suspension then it's a no go (too heavy, especially if you have air rear suspension). If it is rigid (no rear suspension) only then its a great motor choice. On the other side, heavy rigid bike is not a good choice over 32km/h. There is a big difference in 10kg and 30kg bicycle hitting a pothole at 50 km/h.

I agree that 25mm is the minimum, and 32mm optimum width for an ebike with 60mm tyres for example. Better looks AND handling at the cost of higher rim mass.

 

[camerons98]

Motors are usually 36H (H=holes), some bicycles are 32H. You have to count the spoke holes if you want to use your old rim. If it matches the motor holes than you are good to go.

MXUS 3000W is the beast, but weights 8kg. If your MTB is full suspension then it's a no go (too heavy, especially if you have air rear suspension). If it is rigid (no rear suspension) only then its a great motor choice.

I agree that 25mm is the minimum, and 32mm optimum width for an ebike with 60mm tyres for example. Better looks AND handling at the cost of higher rim mass.

Just gone out and checked it only has 32H so I will have to buy a new rim, I've just measured the clearance on my bike and it looks like i'll only be able to go for a 30mm width tyre before it touches the metal either side so I will go for a 25mm rim ..

My bike only has front suspension so I should be good to go for the MXUS motor then..

 

[camerons98]

Forgot to include this in original post so will add it now..

Desired max speed on level ground. 30 mph
Desired max range at what cruising speed. 20 miles at 20 mph
Preferred bike wheel size, or wheel size of bike you want to convert. My current bike has 26" wheels so it has to be that size wheel
Brake type of motor wheel. I have hydraulic brakes current, although I know these wont work so will use regenerative braking on the back and hydraulic on the front
Rider weight. 70 Kg
Terrain. Mostly flat, a few hills only 1-5% maximum gradient
Budget. £500-£650