GCinDC
100 MW
so here's the pelican case after adding:
- main on off switch, which also turns off watt meter (on top out of view)
- 8s cell meter with HV/LV alarm and simple 'fuel gauge' meter (needs to be unplugged to deactivate)
- ON (full throttle)/OFF/ON (lower throttle) switch
from top:
- watt meter
- Pot control dial (looks like antenna, lol) for adjustments in the field (my testing)
- the wire is temp, to keep from case from wobbling back and forth - still need stabilizer bar on front side, esp if someone tries to push the go kart by pushing on the case
light and switch (barely visible red switch on front of batt case, just above brake line)
next order of business is sorting out the chain guide/chain length. the original motor sprocket was in a higher position, so the chain angle around the guide was less acute. this is where i've had it w/ new motor, but rubs the tire too:
here's another position that works w/ existing chain guide, but must cause a lot of unec friction:
seems logical that more of the chain that goes AROUND the sprocket, the less of a strain it is on the chain and the more efficient, right?
am i better off w/o a chain guide and shortening the chain? it's guaranteed to start popping off w/o a guide, isn't it?
i think the previous owner hit something w/ the rear wheel as well, cause it's got a bit of a wobble too, which affects chain ring and brake disc.
this position might be a happy medium, plus i could drill a hole to pop another bolt through the slot:
come on guys, give me some help!
the last little thing will be welding a band aid on the front end to strengthen the frame where the previous owner wrapped it around a tree. i straightened it out most of the way, but needs more. without a rider, the right wheel is slightly off the ground:
i anticipating needing to reweld that inside corner, so taped it when i last painted, but i'm thinking instead of welding 4" of angle iron on the bottom of the frame there after bending it into position...
- main on off switch, which also turns off watt meter (on top out of view)
- 8s cell meter with HV/LV alarm and simple 'fuel gauge' meter (needs to be unplugged to deactivate)
- ON (full throttle)/OFF/ON (lower throttle) switch
from top:
- watt meter
- Pot control dial (looks like antenna, lol) for adjustments in the field (my testing)
- the wire is temp, to keep from case from wobbling back and forth - still need stabilizer bar on front side, esp if someone tries to push the go kart by pushing on the case
light and switch (barely visible red switch on front of batt case, just above brake line)
next order of business is sorting out the chain guide/chain length. the original motor sprocket was in a higher position, so the chain angle around the guide was less acute. this is where i've had it w/ new motor, but rubs the tire too:
here's another position that works w/ existing chain guide, but must cause a lot of unec friction:
seems logical that more of the chain that goes AROUND the sprocket, the less of a strain it is on the chain and the more efficient, right?
am i better off w/o a chain guide and shortening the chain? it's guaranteed to start popping off w/o a guide, isn't it?
i think the previous owner hit something w/ the rear wheel as well, cause it's got a bit of a wobble too, which affects chain ring and brake disc.
this position might be a happy medium, plus i could drill a hole to pop another bolt through the slot:
come on guys, give me some help!
the last little thing will be welding a band aid on the front end to strengthen the frame where the previous owner wrapped it around a tree. i straightened it out most of the way, but needs more. without a rider, the right wheel is slightly off the ground:
i anticipating needing to reweld that inside corner, so taped it when i last painted, but i'm thinking instead of welding 4" of angle iron on the bottom of the frame there after bending it into position...
