Headlights flicker...Help

[100amp]

Hi Everyone,
I am new to this forum so hope someone can help me. I am work in China and have a 5,000 watt, 100amp lithium battery power scooter. My EBike is a year old with about 6,000k's on it.No BMS
One problem I have is that the Guy from where I bought it doesn't want to give me any after sales support.
I can't get a wiring diagram to try and trouble-shoot the problem.
When I turn the key switch on the headlights flicker, sometimes the blinkers don't work and the battery indicator goes a bit crazy.The headlights are LED, the light switch has two stages: red colour (like a parking light) or just bright light (this can also pulse). These things don't work when it is playing up.
There is another switch used for passing; steady light or pulsing.
I just installed a new main key switch because the (switch) can't handle the large current. I intend to use a 240volt key switch in the future.
Overall the bike is great, well made, and can give me about 200ks per charge.
Can someone tell me what the problem could be?
Thanks for your help
Regards
100amp (Alex)

 

[Monstarr]

Malfunctioning battery gauge/meter could be a loose contact. This is nothing but a zener diode circuit.
The lights are most likely aftermarket. So broken led driver? Very hard to tell.

Do you have more information about this scooter and its battery? I have not seen 100 AH batteries in electric scooters before. 200 KM range seems very nice. Operating voltage 48 V ?
What kind of controller are you using?

 

[100amp]

Hi Monstarr,
Thanks for reply. My bike is 72 volts. I had it custom made in Taizhou...Zhejiang province China. The battery brand is Lisheng... I think the factory is in Hangzhou, Zhejiang.
The controller cost 3,000 RMB... it is solid state with reverse mode and a three power switch...it is in a place that is very hard to access so I can't tell you what it is exactly.
200km's range but, riding with an average speed of 30 - 40 Kph any faster is just so dangerous
You mentioned a "Broken LED Driver" is this usually a white plastic match box shape and size, white in colour? Last year I a had an accident and damaged the front forks etc, I was having this problem after they repaired it. I mentioned this to the Guy in our local EBike shop but he doesn't know.
I live in Jiangsu province so everything done was over the internet using my Chinese friend. The Guy who sold it to me is really a pain....no service, nothing...he is like a child. Getting information out of him is impossible.
They don't seem to want to tell you much about their bikes in China, whether they know or don't know.
Thanks again, sorry I couldn't give you better answers.
100amp (Alex)

 

[Voltron]

DC/DC converter with loose connections or going bad? (There's a little metal box in there that lowers the 72v pack voltage to 12v for the lights)

 

[100amp]

Hi Voltron, can you show me a picture of the DC/DC converter or describe it?
Cheers
100amp

 

[Voltron]

Its just a plain metal box usually, with two wires going in and two coming out.... and maybe a label that says 72v/12v on it.

 

[100amp]

Cheers Voltron, there are wires everywhere under the front cover...
100amp

 

[Voltron]

Yup... thats how it usually goes. Carefull while youre digging around in there... 72 volts will spark you up pretty good...

 

[100amp]

Hi Everyone,
Thought I would tell you what was wrong. An earth wire in one of the connectors was only hanging on by a couple of copper wire strands. It was very hard to see because of the mass of wires and insulation.
Not sure why this happened because the wiring loom was only a few months old when it started to play up.
At first the problem was intermittent but it started to get annoyingly bad. After about a year we found the problem to my relief. It is so good to have it normal again.
Cheers
100 amp
Alex

 

[amberwolf]

That's why we tell people with these types of problems that it's usually a connection issue, cuz it almost always is.

Unfortunately as you found it is not always easy to locate the specific connector/wire that causes the problem.

 

[100amp]

Hi Amberwolf, it wasn't the converter connector wire as Voltron suggested, it was a wire that goes to the instrument panel. That's why it was extremely hard to find because the symptoms didn't lead to the diagnosis. I might add that water or any other contaminant didn't play a part in the fault. Just thought I would share that.
Anyway all is good now
Cheers
100amp

 

[Voltron]

Way to go on digging in there and finding it!