How does cruise control work? Cruise control for commuters

mystryda

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I'm going to build a high-speed commuter with a rear hub motor, the Q128, something like chas58's 25^3.

I've been commuting by bicycle for a decade, albeit entirely human powered, and with building an electric bike I'd still like to pedal just as I'm doing now. Part of why I commute is for exercise. I want the hub motor to help me cover a new, longer commute in a less time than it would otherwise take.

Can you all help me figure out cruise control? I want to be able to dial in a speed, say 20mph, and have the motor supply whatever power's necessary to supplement my pedaling to go that speed:
--If I'm accelerating, then would like a slow (adjustable?) ramp so that I'm not dumping amps into the motor.
--If I'm right around 20mph, then just help me enough to keep me there.
--I would like to avoid "surging" or hysteresis issues, though : I don't want the motor to rapidly/harshly turn on and off because of minor variations in my output
--If I'm cruising over >>20mph, then turn off to conserve, power.

Will a normal controller do this? Can you suggest one? I'd like to deliver max of 750W at something between 13S and 15S (but only changed to 4.1V/cell, so below 63V).

If not, will the Cycle Analyst v3 do this?
 
I'd think it would work just like normal speed based throttle does. It will supply as many amps as needed to maintain the set speed, up to the amperage limit of the controller.

So if you're cruising at say 20mph, and hold the throttle steady in that position, if you pedal harder, it will just drop the amps to the motor so the speed stays steady. Your pedal watts are directly replacing motor watts. The motor power will actually fluctuate along with your individual pedal strokes, it's very smooth. If if you're going down a hill, gravity power is performing the same function as your legs. If gravity (or your legs) take you over the set speed motor power should drop to near zero, because the motor has nothing to do.

Setting the cruise control is the same as holding the throttle steady, presuming it's a speed based (not current based) throttle control, which in my experience most are. I've never had a controller with cruise control though, so I can't say for absolute sure, but this seems to me the most logical way to implement it.
 
The few cruise controls I've used so far built into controllers don't actually set a particular speed, but rather a particular throttle voltage.

What that means is that it will set a certain speed, but only on the terrain and conditions you're on at that moment. If you're on the flats, with no wind, then go up a slight slope, the speed would go down, even though the throttle output is the same. On a downslope ti would speed up above the setpoint.


The Cycle Analyst, will do speed limiting, and has control settings that allow tuning it so it will slowly let off power as you approach that speed, and won't surge, etc., and cuts off power above that.

I'm not sure if it can do a regular throttle-controlled cruise control or not--you can look at the manual on the http://ebikes.ca site, or Teklektik's UUG (linked on that site or here on ES in the CA v3 beta thread).

I can imagine you might also be able to use the Aux Pot input as a cruise control speed setting. You mgiht be able to use the Aux input as the digi/switch input to turn on cruise, if it has the function, but I'm not sure if it does.
 
If you use a KT Kunteng Controller, with a matching KT LCD3 or LCD6 display, like I have on 2 different bikes, the Cruise control function works well, but as the other posters have said, it is just like an electronic throttle hold, so the speed will vary depending on gradient, headwind etc.
The major disadvantage for you is that on these KT controllers, as soon as they sense a signal from the PAS sensor, throttle, electronic brake cutoff etc, the Cruise function turns off.
So you cannot pedal, and enjoy the benefits of Cruise control, unless you disconnect the PAS sensor from the controller.
 
Won't the CAv3 cut off cruise power the moment it senses input from an installed PAS :?:, or is there an option to disable cruise control on PAS input :?: I never bothered to install PAS or the crappy stock e-brakes so I wouldn't know. At 20mph or more there's a fine line you need to make whether you want to pedal with cruise control enabled or just switch to a higher power of pedal assist.

With my system, I set a low 250w power limit mode if I wanted to cruise, because above 350w cruising and pedaling was an awkward balance of speed and control, maybe because I didn't install the PAS.
 
melodious said:
Won't the CAv3 cut off cruise power the moment it senses input from an installed PAS :?:
...
At 20mph or more there's a fine line you need to make whether you want to pedal with cruise control enabled or just switch to a higher power of pedal assist.
'Good' PAS behavior is largely in the eye (or butt) of the beholder - views are about as polarized as bar room arguments about Ford vs Chevy or the splendor of the President as Savior in Chief. So - it's hard to really give good advice....

That said, the CA3 can be configured in a variety of ways that may give a desirable riding experience although the operation may not be exactly as some simple PAS or autocruise systems work.

As with other controller-based autocruise setups, the CA3 autocruise locks the throttle setting when it is held steady for a (configurable) number of seconds at which time the throttle can be released. The effect is exactly as if the rider was holding the throttle at the setpoint. Autocruise drops out when the throttle is applied or the ebrakes applied. The throttle effect is determined by whether the throttle is configured to simply pass through the signal to the controller or to provide true feedback-controlled current, power, or speed limiting. So - autocruise with CA Speed Throttle actually does control speed as does an automotive cruise control - but frankly, Speed Throttle is incredibly annoying for normal throttle operation (this is not the same as controller 'speed throttle' which has nothing do with maintaining fixed vehicle speed - a common misconception).

Applying throttle causes CA PAS to drop out, so normally you don't get to mix the two. However, if there is a PAS unit installed (even a simple PAS wheel) then it's possible to set up the CA so that autocruise/throttle work ONLY when pedalling (or above a minimum speed). In this setup, you set the autocruise using the throttle while pedalling and then turn off the throttle. Power is applied to the autocruise level whenever you pedal - if you stop pedaling, the power stops, but it resumes at the setpoint when you pedal again. So, setting this up with Speed Throttle would make the bike go to the preset speed whenever you pedaled.

Alternatively, you can just set up PAS and skip the autocruise thing altogether. Here you pedal and you get power. The CA has ramping adjustments to control how aggressively both regular throttle and PAS are applied so you can make the PAS come on gently while the throttle stays snappy.

Most of the cool stuff comes from using an external Aux Input to the CA3 using either a pot or the new digital aux Up/Down button control. This can be configured to limit speed, current, power, or the level of PAS assistance. With PAS, this is typically setup of PAS limiting to simulate the kind of PAS level you get on controllers. However, in this case, the OP might the absolute max speed for say 25mph and then set up an Aux control for speed limiting. The control would then allow adjustment to limit speed anything less than 25mph. Using a simple PAS wheel, the PAS assist power might be set to several hundred watts to be able to achieve 25-30mph. Riding with this setup, the throttle would work normally for general riding, however, if you turn the throttle off and just pedal, the PAS will apply power that will be limited by the speed set on the Aux control - say 20mph. You adjust the PAS ramping to get a gentle power application. If you pedal harder, the CA will back off power to limit speed to 20mph. If you exceed 20mph pedaling, the CA will turn off the power. The Aux control lets you adjust the speed on the fly.

When used with a DD motor and a Phaserunner or Grinfineon controller, the CA3 can also regulate regen to control speed. By enabling this feature, with the Aux input set for Speed Limiting, you can dial up a speed when you go down hills and the CA will apply regen to hold that max speed - no ebrakes need be applied - it just does it. If combined with the PAS setup described above, the PAS will run the bike up to the set speed when you pedal and will smoothly cut power and switch over to regen if the bike goes faster than 20mph (either by pedaling or downhill). This speed-based configuration works seamlessly and for not-flat terrain avoids the on-the-fly speed/power adjustments required to maintain speed as when using the more familiar PAS Assist level control type.

The CA supports simple PAS wheels as well as a variety of more expensive torque-based sensors. The CA3 torque-based PAS is quite impressive with smooth operation and a really bike-like power increase with increased rider effort. That said, the simple PAS wheel can be configured to work very nicely - even to increase power with rpm to get a boost when you downshift. This opens the possibility of a cheap 'starter sensor' and an open path to future upgrade to a better sensor in the future.

Some of these features are available in the 3.1 beta firmware so a programming cable is needed to flash the new firmware over the installed production 3.0 code.

Anyhow, long post, but as you can see, there's a variety of setups possible so "will the CA3 do so-and-so" can be a little slippery to answer. But - one or more configurations may work for you. :D
 
There's 2 types of cruise control. One type will increase/decrease power to maintain a certain speed, while the other type just sets the power level and won't keep the same speed on hills, but keep the power to the motor the same.I prefer this type over the one that changes power to maintain a certain speed. It basically just locks the throttle setting. If you pedal and go faster or go downhill exceeding the throttle setting speed the motor the starts putting juice back into the battery pack once it reaches the motor no load rpm. I don't recall what the first type does, but I think it just cuts back on the throttle to maintain the set speed.
 
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