How to keep those annoying pedals out of the way...

[Lowell]

and give your feet something to push against in the turns. Unfortunately
the local law requires pedals, so they have to stay. The elastic bands are
temporary, and the plan is to use magnets to hold the cranks at 9 and 3 o
clock which will allow them to be spun somewhat should the need arise.

1.25" aluminum round stock, stepped down to 22mm and then threaded
M22x1.0 to match the crank dust cap threads. Counter bore to clear the
crank bolt head and install. 8)

 

[deecanio]

nice, mmmmm gives me an idea - good work lowell!!
maybe if you have access to a lathe they would be better knarled? they might be very slippy as they are especially whn wet??


D

 

[TylerDurden]

Good thing you don't need to pedal!

:wink:

 

[deecanio]

TD

been meaning to ask you - any chance you can post a pic for me of the underside of the mongoose seat????? just looking into seats again and think i'm going to go the self made route but still curios.

cheers

D

 

[Lowell]

nice, mmmmm gives me an idea - good work lowell!!
maybe if you have access to a lathe they would be better knarled? they might be very slippy as they are especially whn wet??


D

I'll have to see if the smooth finish is a problem or not... I have a lathe in my garage at home, so knurling them later will be easy. I was thinking that milling them into a D shape would be nice as well.

 

[roller]

will those be ok to stand on? I'd want to stand pretty close to the pedal itself, or snap-o.

you could install your other pedal at 180deg and have both pointed back, just for giggles. they're still "fully operative", no?

 

[Lowell]

will those be ok to stand on? I'd want to stand pretty close to the pedal itself, or snap-o.

you could install your other pedal at 180deg and have both pointed back, just for giggles. they're still "fully operative", no?

No problem to stand on. Where do you think it might break?

I tried the pedals at 180 but he position is all wrong. Also, it would need a solid bracket to secure the cranks to the frame, so there would be no point in having pedals at all. In that case I would just TIG weld motorcycle pegs straight into the bottom bracket. My solution gives solid pegs, while keeping functioning pedals and cranks. If I had to, I can unscrew the pegs in 10 seconds.

 

[scottclarke]

[If I had to, I can unscrew the pegs in 10 seconds.

In the process making it legal

think I might make some - though i was thinking more along the lines of a fold out peg - but as you can imagine - its not really a practical solution!

Scott

 

[Lowell]

What would be really cool is a machined split clamp which goes on the seat tube just above the BB. Attached to each side would be a fold up motorcycle peg. If you want to pedal, you can kick the pegs up without stopping the bike. The only other thing you'd need is some way to hold the cranks horizontal so the inside pedal doesn't knock the pavement.

 

[scottclarke]

Considered that first!

Problem being - at least on the black KHS - there is no downtube! Could mount them forward of the pedals but tbh that will 'feel' pretty crud - given the BB is already forward of the seat pin Need a bigger frame - but then it is my daughters daily runner!

Scott

 

[Lowell]

Is the frame aluminum? TIG a doubler plate on along with the folding pegs.

 

[scottclarke]

Lowell,

As you can see the frame design does not lend itself to pegs - unless done using your method - and yes it is aluminium.

The other bike - I have nearly finished stripping the paint - that is conventional frame design. There will be proper pegs on that since its intended to be an off-road pleasure vehicle

Scott

 

[Lowell]

The thread in pegs would definitely make the most sense on that bike. For anyone worried about breaking them off, a longer 10.9 or 12.9 M8x1.0 bolt could be installed to hold them directly to the BB axle.

 

[Lowell]

Folding pedals:

http://www.swissbike.com/accrssiesfpedals.html