how to properly set up controller

[flippy]

...without blowing your controller or motor.


i am working on the upgrade of a scooter i bought with dead lead acids and i need some input from experience.
prehaps due to the size of the forum i cannot find a decent guide (for lack of a better word) on how to set up a controller properly.

in my current case (and for many people here) people start with a standard chinese model and upgrade everything.
i am building a 13s30p lipo (4.1kWh) (using 390 samsung 29E's) to replace the 4 lead acids so i got that pretty much coverd. 150km range at 35kph is the best estimation.
a new kelly controller to replace the 50 amp stock controller is also underway.
but i am currently drawing a bit of a blank with the actual controller setup, mainly on how to calculate the proper amps my motor can handle.

i already asked kelly and they responded with the bastic settings that are safe for my setup (they are really nice on communication, big props to them).
however i am drawing a bit of a blank on how to get decent performance out of my setup without melting my motor as the new kelly is way more powerful then the standard chinese 40 amp controller.

i would like to get some basic setup and do's/dont's going that can be applied to virtually anyone upgrading their setup, especially some math involved in getting the proper amp ratings so hopfully other people benefit as well.

so i got a 1.5kW hub motor (as stated on the hub) wich is 2.5kWh peak according to the scooter builder but i dont think that is correct as that is the limit of the supplied controller, not the motor.

i also learned the kellys are rated for phase currents so how can one go to calculate what the proper ratings are while keeping the battery amps under control?
kelly supplied me with 30% battery limit (120 amp controller) and 40% motor current. for my 48v setup.
how is the relation with phase current and battery current? that stuff is nigh impossible to find a decent explanation on this forum sadly.
i am very interested in how people with more experiece would go and set and test a new setup like this.

note that this thing is meant as a daily driver so reliabillity is number 1 but i do want this thing to have a decent acceleration when in traffic.

some of these questions might seem stupid but i'd rather listen to people with years experience in running and killing off controllers and motors then some spec sheet made by the marketing department.

 

[Nobuo]

You need to focus on motor temperature, that will be the main information about if you are taking the motor too far. It is built-in temperature sensor?
To make your motor giving you the most juice within its safe range, you need just to try different configurations into different terrain conditions. Always with real-time temperature values.

Basically The "rated current" in the kelly config is the maximum current drawn by the controller from the battery pack, thin control the overall max power output, that's the most important limitation to keep the motor safe. For what you said you could start setting this at 30A max. (this would be around 1500W of power)

The phase current is the max current than FETs could deliver, increasing this value will deliver more power on low rpm and more aggressive accelerations, so decreasing this value will give you a smoother soft and more efficient acceleration from stop.

 

[flippy]

i used the scooter with some spare lead acids i had to test it. with the current controller (wich i modded a bit, upped the traces and stuff) i maxed out at 65a peak load (amp clamp on the battery lead) and after a half dozen accelerations the hub got lukewarm at best.
it is really noisy/whiny from the poor pwm'ing in it but that might be due to the controller simply sucking at low rpm and having to lug 4 heavy lead acids around. i honestly hope the kelly will make it quiet.

there is no temp sensor anywere. it's all standard chinese stuff to maximise profits.