Hub-Motor Disconnect?

[TonyReynolds]

I've been doing some searches and it's possible I don't have my terms right, but I was wondering if there's a way to cut the wire bundle coming out of the hub-motor axle to wire in a quick disconnect?

This would be especially useful when changing tubes in the field, or even in the shop, so I don't have to cut a bunch of zip-ties.

Not sure how many wires are involved or if it could be made water-resistant, but it never hurts to ask...

Anyone done this?

Tony

 

[Hugues]

Hi Tony

Not sure what you exactly mean by quick disconnect and how your hub is currently connected.

Mine has the regular 3 Anderson connectors for the phases and another connector for the 5 wires for the sensors.

I wrapped them in plastic and a rubber pad , then zip tied to the bike frame near the axle.

I always carry a knife and some zip ties in my bag just in case.

But I can change a flat without disconnecting the hub, going from the other side and removing the chain around the freewheel .

 

[Philistine]

There is nothing to stop you putting connectors on the phase and hall wires up near the axle, so that you can undo them for fast removal of the wheel. Just be aware that the more connections you put on your wires the more resistance there is. Also, if you run more than 40amps on you bike, having (eg andersons) on the phase wires can create a weak link for resistance and heat build up. Most people just unhook the phase and halls from the controller end when removing a wheel, cutting off some zip ties when changing tyres is probably less of a cost than the resistance from having another set of connectors on your rig. Just my two cents

 

[Ykick]

I've gotten pretty good patching on the bike which works 85% of the time - I suggest you practice it a few times.

Reworking shorter disconnect wiring can be very handy too but you need to know what you're doing or risk frying a controller and/or Hall sensors in some motors.

The way my wheel wires are routed I only have to snip a few tie wraps to clear the bike enough to work on the wheel laying beside the bike.

 

[itchynackers]

You could use velcro straps instead of zip-ties. I use a jst-xh connector for a quick disconnect of the halls, 4mm bullets for the phases.

 

[TonyReynolds]

Thanks, people, some good suggestions. I have the standard insulated wire-bundle (harness) coming out of my axle. The connection to the controller is above, on top of the rear rack, the connection to the battery is at the rear of the frame triangle. The harness attached to the hub-motor is about 4 feet long, so I had to be creative in wrapping the harness around the rear rack to the controller and to the battery to make a visually clean install. My goal was to be as stealth as possible and having wires all over the place defeats that purpose.

Not pulling anywhere near 40A and my controller is rated for 30A, but I understand the concern regarding more connections causing resistance.

I just wondered if anyone has done this, and it seems like no one has. I've patched tubes many times in the past while leaving the wheel on the bike. Not convenient, but for small punctures it's workable. However, if the tube can't be patched and needs to be replaced, then it's pull the wheel and unhook all of the connections, cutting the zip-ties. Of course, everyone carries a couple crescent wrenches when they ride, right?



I don't currently, but eventually will have a stripped-down version of the complete tool bag I carry on my motorcycle so that I can effect minor repairs and fixes in the field.

 

[dogman dan]

It's been done, sometimes to put thicker phase wires to the motor, or to lenghen a too short wire. If you cut the wires at the hub, a wire harness starts getting shorter and shorter. There are many plug choices, but you need three high current ones, plus 5 small ones for the 5 low voltage low current hall signal wires. Lots of ways to waterproof cheap plugs, and some expensive options for waterproof plugs. You just need to be able to solder in the new plugs, some can maybe just be crimped.

Various vendors sell the connector sets, from bike kit vendors to scooter parts outlets. Often, you can get something thrown in with an order of something else you were getting anyway. Say you buy a CA from Grin, they can sell you connectors and ship it all together.

 

[itchynackers]

You could place a spare tube already around the axle, and just tucked up around the swingarm. When you have a blowout, you don't need to pull the wheel off. Just use the spare tube that is already around the axle.

 

[TonyReynolds]

You could place a spare tube already around the axle, and just tucked up around the swingarm. When you have a blowout, you don't need to pull the wheel off. Just use the spare tube that is already around the axle.

That's a great idea!