I need higher gears

[YonderGod]

I built my ebike last week (thanks everyone who gave input on that). It's sooooo fun . Now I need more speed
Just kidding (mostly), 30 mph without pedalling is good for now. But I do need to be able to get some exercise while still going a decent speed. Right now I have trouble pedalling at over about 17mph. The biggest chainring on my bike has only 42 teeth :x (The smallest cog on the back is 14t)

Bike: Mongoose Ledge 2.1
Kit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/371289491857?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
batteries: 2 x http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__64439__Multistar_High_Capacity_6S_10000mAh_Multi_Rotor_Lipo_Pack_US_Warehouse_.html



So I was looking only for a new chainring, and all of the bigger ones seem to have 5 bolts, where mine has 4. Does this mean I would need an entire new crankset?
Should I just look for a whole new bike instead? I was thinking about riding to the Sacramento Bike Kitchen (a local volunteer/non-profit bike shop) and buying a new (used) bike there, swapping all my electric components, and riding it home. If I do this, is there anything specific I should look for in a bike from there? (other than 26" wheel, steel frame, preferably full suspension, 50t or more chainring, or at least 5-bolt crankset)
Orr I could just get a freewheel upgrade, I wouild prefer having this option in the future for 30mph+ though.





PS forgive me if I've used any incorrect terms for bike parts, I am still learning :lol:

 

[Htfan]

For my 26"bike I went with a 48t on the front:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...h_aui_detailpage_o05_s00&tag=httpwwwdolphc-20

Also Required this BB:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...h_aui_detailpage_o01_s00&tag=httpwwwdolphc-20

And this 11t on the rear:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...h_aui_detailpage_o07_s00&tag=httpwwwdolphc-20


This gives me pedaling around 25mph comfortably.

Since I noticed you are also in California, it will be beneficial to make yourself familiar with DMV regulations for ebikes and mopeds (anything over 20mph).

 

[YonderGod]

Since I noticed you are also in California, it will be beneficial to make yourself familiar with DMV regulations for ebikes and mopeds (anything over 20mph).

Wow, I'm surprised nobody told me this before. I assumed all the info I found was true in the US regardless of state.

From: https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/detail/motorcycles/motorcycles

A "motorized bicycle" or "moped" is:

A two or three-wheeled device, capable of no more than 30 mph on level ground, and equipped with:

- Fully operative pedals for human propulsion.
- A motor producing less than two gross brake horsepower and an automatic transmission.
- An electric motor, with or without pedals for human propulsion. (CVC §406(a))
Driver must have a motorcycle license (M1 or M2).

A "motorized bicycle" is also defined as a vehicle with pedals and an electric motor (not more than 1,000 watts) which cannot be driven at speeds of more than 20 mph on level ground even if assisted by human power. (CVC §406(b)).
If you operate a motorized bicycle which meets the definition of CVC §406(b), you:

- Must be 16 years of age or older.
- Must wear a properly fitted and fastened bicycle helmet.
- Are exempt from the motor vehicle financial responsibility, driver license, and moped plate requirements (CVC §12804.9).
A motorized bicycle is issued special license plates and identification cards, which requires a one-time $18 fee. No renewal is required.

 

[Htfan]

Wow, I'm surprised nobody told me this before. I assumed all the info I found was true in the US regardless of state.

Well, you had the same surprise that I did! However, this is an international forum and everyone deals with somewhat different regulations within their own state/country.

So, given this knowledge we have decide how to configure our own ebike for either "offroad" or street driving.

I currently have 2 different configurations I'm testing. One is "street" at 48v with a 20mph top speed and the other is 72v "offroad" with a 34mph top.

 

[chvidgov.bc.ca]

I run a 60T chainring from hostelshoppe.com (Vuelta). Works great, as long as it will clear your frame.

 

[Htfan]

I run a 60T chainring from hostelshoppe.com (Vuelta). Works great, as long as it will clear your frame.

You can always get a longer/wider BB if the larger ring needs clearance.

 

[YonderGod]

Well, you had the same surprise that I did! However, this is an international forum and everyone deals with somewhat different regulations within their own state/country.

So, given this knowledge we have decide how to configure our own ebike for either "offroad" or street driving.

I currently have 2 different configurations I'm testing. One is "street" at 48v with a 20mph top speed and the other is 72v "offroad" with a 34mph top.

It's fairly easy to set a max speed on my controller, so it will be easy to switch between a "street" and "offroad" configuration, so it doesn't change my plans for what I want, just how careful I need to be when using it. :lol:

I run a 60T chainring from hostelshoppe.com (Vuelta). Works great, as long as it will clear your frame.

wow, they even have a 73T chainring there. The biggest I can find online at any store around here is 55t, so i'll probably have to order online if I want something bigger.

 

[Htfan]

It's fairly easy to set a max speed on my controller, so it will be easy to switch between a "street" and "offroad" configuration, so it doesn't change my plans for what I want, just how careful I need to be when using it. :lol:

You made me think about a good question for the people enforcing these ebike laws.....

Does a lower 20mph speed setting that we can change on the "fly", still adhere to the requirements of a motorized bicycle law?

 

[DAND214]

Here is a 52t http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006429C3E...TF8&colid=26R7PW92U842C&coliid=I3UU3SRKJJA9HU

Dan

 

[YonderGod]

It's fairly easy to set a max speed on my controller, so it will be easy to switch between a "street" and "offroad" configuration, so it doesn't change my plans for what I want, just how careful I need to be when using it. :lol:

You made me think about a good question for the people enforcing these ebike laws.....

Does a lower 20mph speed setting that we can change on the "fly", still adhere to the requirements of a motorized bicycle law?

We can make some assumptions based on logic, but then these laws are not logical in the first place so maybe I'm wrong *smashes head on brick*

A "motorized bicycle" is also defined as a vehicle with pedals and an electric motor which cannot be driven at speeds of more than 20 mph on level ground even if assisted by human power.

A physically fit person can pedal a normal bike at well over 20mph without any motor assistance. So this law MUST be interpreted that a motorized bike can be capable over over 20 mph, as long as you don't actually use it at over 20 mph.

right?

Here is a 52t http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006429C3E...TF8&colid=26R7PW92U842C&coliid=I3UU3SRKJJA9HU

Dan

Thanks for the link.

 

[rsilvers]

As long as the assist cuts off at 20 mph then you are fine, even if you pedal beyond that (obviously).

 

[Htfan]

As long as the assist cuts off at 20 mph then you are fine, even if you pedal beyond that (obviously).

What you said is correct.... But, many of our controllers are configurable with the press of a button / flip of a switch.... So...

I actually started a separate thread to discuss further...

 

[YonderGod]

alright, I'm going to the Bike Kitchen tomorrow to see what they have

26" wheel
steel frame
full suspension
50t or more chainring, or at least 5-bolt crankset that I can upgrade

anything else I should look for?

 

[dogman dan]

52-14 will get you comfy pedaling to about 23 mph. So if you want to pedal, not just spin, faster you will also need that 11t screw on freewheel to go with your big crank.

Most newer mtb's have wide frames, and have a very hard time fitting anything bigger than 48t up front. And, they already have that wider bottom bracket.

Don't get a 52 tooth crank from a race bike, it will be built with very slim offset, and hit your frame. You need a mountain crank, then a special oversize chain ring with the right bolt pattern to go on that crank. It's out there, but you'll have to hunt it down. I was able to find a 56 tooth. It fits my older hard tail frames, or cheap frames intended to never run bigger than 2" tires. It won't fit my good off road bikes that have wider frames to run 2.5" tires.

So it's do able, but not easy to do past 48 tooth on some bikes. 48-14, still only good for pedaling about 20 mph.

 

[chas58]

Dogman has some good advice on what to look for. I guess comfy is a relative term.

I average about 100rpm, as any one who rides a quick bike will do (aka the lycra crowd). Its good arobic exercise.
53tx14t will give you ~100 rpm at 30mph.

Dogman is talking about the more recreational rider who is doing 70rpm. It is a nice easy speed. You won't get a lot of power out of that, and wont' get a lot of sweat. Its what most people around here are likely comfortable with.

So, what cadence do you want? that is going to determine your choice.

FYI - a chain ring or a crank set typically cost me $50 each, so nothing lost by just getting the whole crank set.
Its impossible to tell without looking at the bike, but it doesn't look like you'll have clearance problems. Is it a square taper crank?

you could use a road crank. Just get a 7 or 8 speed triple, and make sure you have clearance for the larger chain ring. Shimano makes a 7speed freewheel with a 13t small cog, that will help too, if you want to stay with shimano (the freewheels with smaller cogs tend to have problems).

 

[cal3thousand]

If you are really into pedaling, a FSA Metropolis Patterson will turn your chain ring into a beast. I have a 39T on one, which gets multiplied 1.6X to a virtual 62.4T. Combined with the 11T I have out back, I can pedal up to 35mph comfortably. Not cheap, but definitely great quality piece

 

[chas58]

If you are really into pedaling, a FSA Metropolis Patterson will turn your chain ring into a beast. I have a 39T on one, which gets multiplied 1.6X to a virtual 62.4T. Combined with the 11T I have out back, I can pedal up to 35mph comfortably. Not cheap, but definitely great quality piece

You like it?

I have a single speed bike, and that looks like an interesting way to switch between high gear electric mode, and lower gear pedal only mode. What do you think.

1.6kg ain't light. What do those things sell for?

 

[cal3thousand]

If you are really into pedaling, a FSA Metropolis Patterson will turn your chain ring into a beast. I have a 39T on one, which gets multiplied 1.6X to a virtual 62.4T. Combined with the 11T I have out back, I can pedal up to 35mph comfortably. Not cheap, but definitely great quality piece

You like it?

I have a single speed bike, and that looks like an interesting way to switch between high gear electric mode, and lower gear pedal only mode. What do you think.

1.6kg ain't light. What do those things sell for?

Around $300 depending how you have it set up and where you get your parts.

I absolutely love it. Shifting is instantaneous since the chain does not have to move and you can shift under load easily. One could even go with a belt drive for the ultimate smoothness :wink:

 

[YonderGod]

If you are really into pedaling, a FSA Metropolis Patterson will turn your chain ring into a beast. I have a 39T on one, which gets multiplied 1.6X to a virtual 62.4T. Combined with the 11T I have out back, I can pedal up to 35mph comfortably. Not cheap, but definitely great quality piece

That's almost as much as I spent on my entire bike :lol: looks nice though.

I'm not super into pedaling, I just want to get some exercise so that I can get/stay in decent shape. I don't know exact RPMs, but I'd like to be at somewhere around 80-90 at the highest, with the option to go down to around 70 when I'm tired, but don't want it to look like I'm doing completely nothing.

So looking at an online calculator I want a 52t chainring at least.


I went to the bike kitchen today, they didn't have much that I think I want. When I went with my brother a few weeks ago they were spilling bikes out of their ears. I heard them on the phone telling people to come by for a free Walmart bike :lol: The only bike that really interested me now though was a nice Specialized mountain bike, it was listed at $250, I just looked at the prices of them new online, holy crap, I wish I had $250.

I forgot to check if they had any good cranksets for sale though. I'm not sure if I should go back on Thursday or just order a new one online. Before I order, how do I know what size BB I have and what side I need?

 

[dogman dan]

Most cheaper bikes have a square taper crank, Remove the bolt on the crank, often under the plastic cap, and if you see square, you have a common square taper crank.

You will need a crank remover, to get most bikes cranks off. If it's sat in the weather long enough, even that might not do the trick. The tool is cheaper than having a shop remove your crank twice, so get one. Most good bike shops sell them.

Re cadence, yes, I was thinking of more like 80 rpm cadence as "comfy" unless you are a fit athlete, 100 rpm is most likely just faux pedaling for you. Most non athletes will be unable to press on the pedals significantly hard at 100 rpm.

For me comfy is perhaps 80 rpm, but still pedaling hard enough to see 75w less on a CA as you ride. Not a big output, but definitely feeling pressure on the feet, elevating the heart rate, but not puffing like a train. It may extend range some, but the real aim is to extend my lifespan.

52-14 on my longtail cruiser, which makes comfy about 23 mph, but 25 quite possible when I feel perky.

 

[chas58]

Once again, dogman has good advice. Targeting something like 70-80 rpm sounds good for you. The odds are that you have a square taper bottom bracket. If so, just pull the current one off and put the new one on (you are not changing the bottom bracket, so that size isn’t critical, just put a new crank on your current bottom bracket as dogman described). The only catch is that the chain ring might be too big and rub against your frame. 53t is common for a road bike (mountain bikes unusually use 42, although 46 and 48t are available for “touring” mountain bikes). Again, whether it will work or not depends on if you have clearance for all 3 chain rings with your frame.

 

[flyinbrick]

Something I picked up from EM3EV: Try to set up the gearing so that the most-used cog will give you a straight chain-line. This results in less wear on your chain and sprockets. For my mtb on my outer 48t, that would be the 3rd cog from the outside (3rd smallest). For reference, 48t/12t is my most often used combo where I cruise at 25 mph (comfy) to 28 mph (max).

 

[dogman dan]

That definitely makes sense. But if it's just a little bit offset, the big ring up front, and the smallest ring in back should work ok. You might end up tweaking your front derailleur enough to make using the big ring in back rub on the front deraiileur.

Higher quality cranks will have removable chain rings, which means it is possible to get longer bolts and shims, and move the big chain ring out some. This could cause a chain rub on the frame though, so before you spend money and time, test that position of the chain ring, by loose fitting the entire crank on the square taper.

Again, chances are an MTB already has the wider bb spindle, so not real easy to find longer ones.

 

[whereswally606]

So just picked up a Patterson crankset for the 1.6x overdrive off rose bikes for under £90 which is a stonking deal. German Company so great for those of us on this side of the pond.

 

[YonderGod]

So just picked up a Patterson crankset for the 1.6x overdrive off rose bikes for under £90 which is a stonking deal. German Company so great for those of us on this side of the pond.

Nice, I just ordered mine - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00699Q3GG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_4&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER