Installing hub motor: Questions

[Jay64]

I bought a couple of the rear 9-Continents motors from e-bikekit.com that were sold on this thread:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=9164
There were not any installation instructions that came with it. On motorcycles, there is a directional indication on the hubs to which helps to show which side is the left side of the wheel and which is the right, but I don't see any such evidence of this on these hub motors. Which side of these hubs is the right side and which is the left? (Rider's right while seated on the bike with the hub installed.) Basically, which side of the bike do the hub wires come out on? Yes, I am completely new to the bicycle stuff. I have owned some in the past but I have never done any work on them at all, so I am still learning a lot of the stuff that are different between a bicycle and a motorcycle. This hub has large threads (I'm assuming they are for the gears) on both sides. If one set is for the gears, then what is the other set of threads for? I'm pretty sure that the side of the hub motor that has the wires coming out is the rider's right side of the bike, but I just want to make sure. Does the second set of threads on the opposite side allow the hub to be mounted in either direction? Hmm, can this hub even be run in reverse?
Also, what exactly are all these different parts/spacers/washers/torque arms that are on this axle?

There is obviously the nut and washer. Then there are a couple of different parts, one has a hole in the far end (can't see that too well in this pic) and the other has a hook on the circumferance, that I'm guessing might be torque arms? Are they both torque arms? The second one with the hook looks like it will fit into the actual drop out itself.

But it seems to me that if the purpose of a torque arm is to keep the axle from spreading the drop out open, then this type of torque arm would be counter-productive. It seems like it would give the torque more of a leverage, further from the axle, on the drop out. Or am I looking at this completely wrong? If the other piece is a torque arm, how is it used?
Would I be able to use a single gear free wheel? If I did that, would I be able to completly elliminate the derailer?
Sorry for the absolutely idiotic newbie questions, but the more I tried to research for the answers, the more questions that kept bringing up and taking me down other paths, but leading me away from the current answers that I need.

 

[biohazardman]

The install instructions are on the site although I have not looked at them. http://www.e-bikekit.com/installation.html A very common way to do things theses days in the e-bike world. I'm with you on the dropout washers they seem almost counter productive to me also. Although I would guess they would spread the torque forces out some possibly stopping the axle spin in the dropouts for a bit of time if things are loose. They do not work for me at all as my dropouts are to shallow. Still they are nice beefy washers to tighten things down against and they should hold their shape well. The large ones will fit behind your freewheel to keep the chain line straight with the front chainring and or to stop yer freewheel from hitting the motor. The long one is the torq bar and if you are lucky the hole will line up with one on your dropout.
Good luck
Duane

 

[Sacman]

Yes those dropout washers prevent axle spin-out. They'll work fine and should NOT spread your dropouts unless you have some really strong regen on your system. If you think about the way the wheel spins under normal motor is acceleration, you'll notice that the axle (and dropout washers) are tending to spin the other direction (into the rigid part of the dropout, rather than into the flimsy side). So you see it really doesn't spread the dropouts.

 

[Drunkskunk]

the wire comes out on the rider's Left, the notch side down so water won't run in.

those tabbed washers are a bonous, and spread the torque over more surface of the dropout if your dropout is big enough. if not, it makes a handy spacer, and will let you fit a 7 speed to the bike with one on the inside.

the torque arms are hit or miss. they might bolt up, or maybe line up with a drill to make a hole, or bolt on an extension to fit someplace. no two bikes are alike, so they are a starting point.

the threads on both sides allow you to put on a freewheel to either side, or you could add a disc adaptor or drum brake on the left side

 

[Jay64]

I did go to their website and look at their installation guide. But the guide refered to the hub as being a front hub. I had bought two of their close out rear hubs, so I was wondering if it was the same. Another question, what are the two large spacer looking things that are on the inside of the dropout washers?

 

[Jay64]

This thing doesn't even come close to fitting in the frame if I have the wires coming out the left side. I had taken it down to a local bike shop and they dished the wheel for me. When I put it in the drop outs with the wires on the left side, the tire is pushed up against the side of the frame on the left side.

Edit: Nevermind I failed to notice that the derailer attached to the right side drop out didn't allow it to sit as far back in the drop out. It was in the frame at an angle.

 

[Zoot Katz]

This thing doesn't even come close to fitting in the frame if I have the wires coming out the left side. I had taken it down to a local bike shop and they dished the wheel for me. When I put it in the drop outs with the wires on the left side, the tire is pushed up against the side of the frame on the left side.

Sounds like they probably dished it the wrong way. If there's a threaded boss on each side of the hub it's entirely understandable since there's nothing to show its rotation. biohazardman already explained the large spacers are just that. They go between the freewheel and hub body.
With your horizontal dropouts you can run a single speed freewheel without a derailleur. Adjust chain tension by sliding the axle back and forth. With vertical dropouts you'd likely need something to take up the slack in the chain. Or sometimes you get lucky with a combination of chainstay length, gear tooth combinations and a half link if needed.

 

[Jay64]

Please not that there is a black &
white “European Suppressor Loop Wire” on the controller that limits power to the motor to 200 watts
when connected. This will limit the top speed of the motor to 14 MPH. Simply disconnect the loop to
enable full power and higher top speeds.

So if I put a switch in the middle of this loop, will that make a dummy switch? So that I can flip the switch to limit the power for a newbie or for 'legal reasons'?