Kill switch on main battery power supply ?? Options ?

[mbackc@gmail.com]

Hello.

I´ve ditched my display and all other cables, in order to only have the throttle and no pedal assist. I used to ride enduro motocycle which is why I find i natural to ride with the throttle only.

I´ve made a new custom cable with two plugs - one for programming and one for the throttle.

I realized that I need to connect the Brown (P+) and the Orange (PL) in order to switch on the controller. I dont want to have an additional switch for this, as the cabling needs to be as clean and simple as possible.

However it would be a good option to be able to switch everything off. I could do that by cutting the main supply on a switch. Bu I guess it would require a massive switch or a relay.

Does any one have a good idea ? Are you familiar with any switch or a small relay that can handle 48V and 30 amps ?

Thanks for your assistance in advance.

All the best.

Michael Back Copenhagen, DK

 

[Willow]

A solid state relay with a switch on the handlebars.... or simply a plug with a lanyard that can be pulled apart in an emergency.... or a keyed contactor (with the big red key)

 

[Lurkin]

Whats the main difference between a contactor and a relay? The internet discusses, but contradicts itself on:

High voltage vs low voltage
Plain switch vs Overload protection

Would anyone be willing to put up a diagram of the difference in schematic?

 

[Dogboy1200]

Halfway down this page Kepler tells you how to do it. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=60375&start=100 I'm planning on doing the same thing. I picked up a handle bar mount switch I will put next to the throttle. I am running my battery in my backpack and currently have the wires connected to my waist and a loose loop goes to a connector on my seat post. I plan on changing that to have the wires run down my right arm and have a very small loose loop to connect to a connector on the handlebars near my throttle. Please post more pictures and the results of your new harness

 

[mbackc@gmail.com]

Thanks for the replies !

I think I might just hard wire the on/off wires from the controller and add a keyed contacter in my battery box - for cutting the battery supply - as i don't need an additional switch on the handlebar in that case.

But let's say I'd use the type that are used for 12/24 V on cars and boats - would it work at 48v and 30 amp ? That's my main concern.

All the best.

Michael.

 

[motomech]

I don't "turn off" the battery.
I turn off the controller(s).

 

[ddk]

...
But let's say I'd use the type that are used for 12/24 V on cars and boats - would it work at 48v and 30 amp ? ...

Automotive 30A switches are what I use on all battery packs which are 7S(29V) through 15S (63V) Most of my packs are 12S. My controllers range from 23A to 30A.
You're turning the switch on/off during the moment of least current draw. The 'voltage' rating is about how the switch reacts to higher voltages where 60ish Volts is about the limit of a 12V automotive switch before it rapidly degrades the contact area (pitting that eventually causes the arcing that welds the contacts together) My oldest packs have thousands of switch closures with only one failure (not due to pitting/arcing. Spring failure).

 

[StinkyGoalieGuy]

Here's a perfect kill switch.

http://www.longacreracing.com/products.aspx?itemid=1643&prodid=7594&pagetitle=Push-Pull+Battery+Disconnect+Switch+-+2+Terminal

Mount it vertically on your frame so you can slam it off with your palm.