KMX X-class commuter build

kenwood96

10 W
Joined
Apr 23, 2012
Messages
78
I got my inspiration from fellow members of this board, so after a few weeks of producing ideas, I stumbled upon a secondhand kmx, and off we went!


items that were used:

waterproof led latching buttons (ebay)
smd led strip (ebay)
heating pads (ebay)
digital thermostate (for heating pad)
RFID module for startup of system.
ultimate torque arms (many, many thnx to DrBass!)
infineon 75v 25 A controller
HS3540 in a 24" rim.
CA v2.21
hidden brake sensor for regen
3w red leds on star (ebay)
3x XML bike light, without controller inside, running of a 12v to 9v converter.
various local shop hardware
9x 6s 5000mah 20c lipo which totals a 75v 15a pack
2 .50 ammo cases from local stock
an industrial 80v to 12v converter for powering all 12v goodies

I decided for a clean look and put everything inside the 2 ammo cases on the side. controls were placed upfront between the legs.
regen works great, autocruise function is yet to be enabled ...

some pics:


the kids seem to like it:







figuring out placement:

µ

tidying battery with fresh shrinkwrap



prefitting some stuff:



giving it a nicer finish:




mounting cases and finishing platform:







heating pad for battery inside the rubbermat padded box:




thumb throttle injected with sillicone for future moisture failure protection:



and other stuff :







 
Sounds like a good start to some rockin' good times.

-I found with my KMX Typhoon that flecks of dirt ding me in the back of the helmet with the stock mud flap. I fixed this problem by adding a rear rack.
-I found that my KMX stock front sprocket (40ish teeth) is not really enough, even for non-motorized use, I later upgraded to a 60t sprocket (Vuelta) and this is quite a bit better, but maybe still not enough teeth. Maybe a jackshaft, or sclumpf or something would be best.
-I mangled a rim when I was pretending my KMX was a high speed luge board; I swapped to 20" rims and overall I like them better than the 16 inch rims. They are worse than 16" because they take away your ability to do some of the yank and bank kind of stuff because the trike flips easier. They are better than 16" because you can blast down the road and drop off curbs without raking the bottom of the trike every time; the rims still bend when you slam them hard enough so maybe MAGS would be better. 16" tires get pretty squirrley at round 30ish mph, where as 20" feel squirrley around 35 mph or so.
-Looking forward to seeing where you put your cycle analyst. I found just welding the cycle analyst bolt to the front boom works great, just fasten the nut and you are good to go.
 
5x powerled, direct driven @ 12V from the melcher power converter



Badge here to start the system :) :



sneak peak inside the electronics box, including spare tube, pump and wrench for the rearwheel:





So far really pleased, the kmx tops out @ 38 mph. the biggest chainring is a little small at those speeds to pedal along though...
 
Very nice build.
 
Nice !
Sorry for the lame questions ... but how do you charge your batteries ? do you take them out everytime and change their setup to charge ?
Also, do you secure/lock the box ?
And since it's a commuter, where (motorcycle parkings ? bicycle parkings ? car parkings?) and how do you park safely without risking people scavenging parts out of the bike ?
Maybe I'm too paranoid ...
Thanks.
 
Hi, I open up the casing on the side, disconnect the batteries, and hook up the charger, without removing the pack.

the boxes aren't secured, because no one did figure it out how to open them :mrgreen:

I have a closed private bicycle parking at my work, I do put a lock on it, but like I said, the boxes are a mystery on how to open them.
 
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