Lagging PAS response with locked controller, how about this idea?

[MylarStar]

I have this Yolin display I’m regrettably kind of stuck with the way it came; which I can live with, except that the pedal assist response is way too slow for the style of riding I built a whole bike for in the first place.

It takes half a crank turn to get the PAS to respond and I don’t have that kind of time crawling up rock strewn hills where pauses and pedal resets are par for the course. It’s way too easy to lose all momentum if the PAS doesn’t kick in the first time a magnet passes the sensor.

Given that I can’t up the sensitivity or fudge the number of magnets to signify more of a revolution, what if I were to stack up and fan out two or three of these bottom bracket mount PAS sensors and splice the leads together to pick up that many more pulses per interval? Might I get my required pedal movement down to a 1/4 turn or even an 1/8 turn by doing this? It seems logical but there could be all sorts of considerations I’m not aware of.

 

[amberwolf]

if all the sensors are open-coollector outputs like regular motor halls are, then they can be paralelled. if not, they may not operate correctly. oc outputs ground the signal when active, and use a simple pullup resistor from signal line to 5v to hold the line high when it isn't active.

but for instance, if they output a 5v signal directly when active, using a "push pull" or other type of output signal where it is actively driven to 5v or ground, then paralleling them directly may result in just an average voltage instead of a signal, and no pas output. or it can actually damage the outputs.

it's unlikely to say what kind of output it is on any particular device, and opening them up to find out is not always helpful. so you may have to try it and see what happens. :/


alternately you could insert extra magnets between the other ones already there and see if the pas is capable of picking them up; just note the polartiy of the existing magnets and whatever pattern they have (all north, all south, alternating n s, etc). and stick with that when adding.


another soltion as posted in your other thread is to use the cycle analyst from ebikes. ca to take your pas sensor input and turn it into a throttle so you have actual control over the power with the pedalsb ased on cadence. the ca has controls to setup the response time and amount. you'd have to check it to see if the minimums are still workable for your application.

 

[MylarStar]

if all the sensors are open-coollector outputs like regular motor halls are, then they can be paralelled. if not, they may not operate correctly. oc outputs ground the signal when active, and use a simple pullup resistor from signal line to 5v to hold the line high when it isn't active.

but for instance, if they output a 5v signal directly when active, using a "push pull" or other type of output signal where it is actively driven to 5v or ground, then paralleling them directly may result in just an average voltage instead of a signal, and no pas output. or it can actually damage the outputs.

it's unlikely to say what kind of output it is on any particular device, and opening them up to find out is not always helpful. so you may have to try it and see what happens. :/


alternately you could insert extra magnets between the other ones already there and see if the pas is capable of picking them up; just note the polartiy of the existing magnets and whatever pattern they have (all north, all south, alternating n s, etc). and stick with that when adding.


another soltion as posted in your other thread is to use the cycle analyst from ebikes. ca to take your pas sensor input and turn it into a throttle so you have actual control over the power with the pedalsb ased on cadence. the ca has controls to setup the response time and amount. you'd have to check it to see if the minimums are still workable for your application.

I had thought about stacking another one of those disks on there and staggering the magnets but I thought that might all merge into one indistinguishable monofield and not read as a pulse.
This is such a dipshit approach to lock down half of the parameters, like stuff you would have access to on just about any entry level e bike. I can get someone else that sells Yolin stuff on eBay to sell me the unit as shown in the unabridged Yolin manual but I’m not really thrilled about that prospect. I might have to do some real studying up and see if there’s anything that can be done to unlock or reprogram these. I gave them such a ration of shit for locking all the parameters they gave me a refund without me having to return them; I was open to any alternative but they wouldn’t budge about exchanging them for ones with more adjustability; seemingly based on some sort of paranoia about what makes it to the US market. They made it sound like it wasn’t even like the other parameters were really in there to be unlocked; it’s programmed as such and can’t just be reset to factory defaults and redone, you would probably know how close to the truth that really is.
The sensor has a power on LED that flashes when you’re pedaling if that tells you anything.
Oh here’s another question. Of a few actually.
I have a T8 that works with my controller for the most part and shows more of the parameters.
My controller is 25 amp and has a phase current value of 12 amps. The T8 has a current limit setting with a default of 12 amps. Should I be at that or 25 amps? It’s showing my wattage peaking at just under 1200, as it ought to but I have the max wattage set to 1200 so I don’t know if that’s just the scale it’s displaying on or if that’s actually what’s happening.
The Yolin display shows an amperage reading rather than watts and that’s showing it going as high as 26-27 amps.
This whole thing is so annoying it’s making me want to switch to a whole different controller and display. This is stupidly over complicated for a hub motor. The setup on my cheesy Lectric is vastly superior to this IMO.