Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

Nice to see LUKE jumping in here announcing some really useful dyno results. Thats great.

I'd like to know on what saturation depends on. Is it mainly the steel, magnets or lamination thickness? i guess lam thickness is not important or only in view of iron fill (thinner lams have lower iron fill because of the "air gap" between).


neptronix said:
I'd guess that the saturation point for the 4T would be around 100A or so.. look forward to real testing though :)

100A in 4T 35mm Leaf would equal to what torque?
i think it would be better to talk about Nm since it should be the same no matter what turn count the motor has
if i remeber right justin did some tests about that with a 9C or clyte 28mm motor and he measured saturation at about 100Nm.
 
leafmotor.jpg


Here's the data from the first page of this thread.

79nm at 300rpm is a lot, imagine what it makes at lower rpm..
 
I ordered them with 3mm^2 phase leads.

In less than 24hrs from getting the bike running, the stock rim it comes laced into developed 3 deep cracks in the perimeter and about 10 or so of the spokes are jingling loose. Granted I was using big flights of stairs as jumps, as well as dropping some mild stuff with it, it might survive more than a day of gentle riding. Fortunately, I ordered a spare motor/wheel at the same time, so I've swapped to a fresh motor/wheel for my wife to still be able to ride her bike.

I might get it on the dyno this week, schedule at the moment is pretty slammed.

It's sadly not a torque monster motor (no wheelies unless you really put body english into it), and for whatever reason it's no-load doesn't seem as low as I expected either, and it makes bad smells in less than 1 minute of feeding it real-ish power.

I'm thinking of perhaps going with the 50mm wide 273mm V3 motor Vito offers for my own Nyx build.

Overall it's not a bad motor though, just less than I was expecting, but my standards are perhaps shifted a bit further towards performance than most folks.

ATB,
-Luke
 
Their rims a crap. At least you got to ride yours. My clients wheel was bent and cracked right out of the box. It was under the foam portion so somebody dropped it and thought the foam protected it. That was 4 months ago and still no reconciliation. Buy only the motor. The rest of the kit is junk.
 
liveforphysics said:
I'm thinking of perhaps going with the 50mm wide 273mm V3 motor Vito offers for my own Nyx build.

Im trying to convince Vitto to make a 273 45-50mm motor with cast rims for bicycle dropouts(155-160mm), PCD6*44mm rotors and freewheel for several months. Did he finally agreed to make it?
 
That's strange that you can't get it to wheelie. My 4T in a 26" wheelied as soon as i cranked it up to 80A, and i had to tune the phase to battery ratio down to about 2.25:1 to prevent that from happening.

At 72v x 80A, this motor is very dangerous in terms of wheelies on my mtb.. and i'm probably 30-50lbs heavier than you.

My rim has held up great, but the wheel was not properly trued from the factory. I ordered mine with a 24mm rim that looked cheap, but has taken everything i've thrown at it... i had the wheel trued immediately upon arrival.
 
Yeah, don't expect the wheel to EVER be tensioned properly.
 
liveforphysics said:
In less than 24hrs from getting the bike running, the stock rim it comes laced into developed 3 deep cracks in the perimeter and about 10 or so of the spokes are jingling loose. Granted I was using big flights of stairs as jumps, as well as dropping some mild stuff with it, it might survive more than a day of gentle riding. Fortunately, I ordered a spare motor/wheel at the same time, so I've swapped to a fresh motor/wheel for my wife to still be able to ride her bike.

what size of rim was it and are you going to put it with that on the dyno?
I think of taking 4T or 5T and lace it into 20" bmx rim (or 22" if i can find one) to keep it lightweight.

It would be great if you comment on the question about saturation.
 
i have not decided what frame i will take. maybe the flux beta or i convert a DH frame by my own..
 
neptronix said:
That's strange that you can't get it to wheelie. My 4T in a 26" wheelied as soon as i cranked it up to 80A, and i had to tune the phase to battery ratio down to about 2.25:1 to prevent that from happening.

At 72v x 80A, this motor is very dangerous in terms of wheelies on my mtb.. and i'm probably 30-50lbs heavier than you.

My rim has held up great, but the wheel was not properly trued from the factory. I ordered mine with a 24mm rim that looked cheap, but has taken everything i've thrown at it... i had the wheel trued immediately upon arrival.


If the rear wheel of the bike is located forward enough, it becomes easy to wheelie by pedaling power alone. In a frame like the NYX, the swingarm is located quite a bit further back than most bicycles. This is my preference, as it allows greater rates of acceleration, it just requires more torque to lift the front.
 
Why would you want to lift the front wheel anyway?
Makes absolutely no sense to me.
Makes absolutely no sense to me why anyone would want to go 50+mph either on a bicycle frame.
 
I agree with too high of speed on a bike- I don't trust them to do that regularly, but having enough power to lift the front end from 5-? mph is pretty fun.
One of my recent dreams involved a inordinate amount of that, like I was an xgame champ or something. Prob wouldn't have had the surreal dream if my bike didn't scare the crap out of me once or twice :D

Speedmd yes. And with enough power you could rocket over that pole, and go airborne for 20ft or so.
 
Lift the front wheel yes, I understand that idea, for popping over logs.
You wouldnt do that with motor power would you?
And you wouldnt do a wheelie for practical use either.
 
Low power wheelies all the way down the straight with all your weight over the bars feels pretty satisfying. I recommend it.

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markz said:
Now thats power LFP, non of the hang off the rear BS I see all the time.

Frame is 2in longer than a Hyabusa, all the weight is up front as far as i can cantilever over the bars.

One of the times I broke a chain, it nearly threw me over the bars because you're cantilevered so far forward over the bars to balance the acceleration G-force. 60-70mph while wearing a teeshirt and shorts. I was super grateful i only ended up with a smashed sack and brused knees and shins, but was able to ride it out.
 
markz said:
Lift the front wheel yes, I understand that idea, for popping over logs.
You wouldnt do that with motor power would you?
And you wouldnt do a wheelie for practical use either.

Yes exactly the same with a motor or regular bike. You power / pull to lift the front and then release to lift the rear after the front rolls over the obstacle. If clipped into the pedals you help lift the rear by hopping up and pulling up with your feet. Most practical way. Miss most of the bump with power and weight transfer.
 
Either you get your front wheel up somehow, or the obstacles do it for you in a way that can knock you off your line.
 
Oh, you have a long frame, that's why you don't wheelie like i do.

Makes sense. I was scratching my head as to why you weren't getting the same kind of power.
 
liveforphysics said:
Low power wheelies all the way down the straight with all your weight over the bars feels pretty satisfying. I recommend it.

Is there a thread on this forum about that bike or the build of it? :shock: 8)
 
Isn't that your Deathbike? Early version or the version you raced a Tesla with?
 
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