Limit controller max amp draw

[1000watt]

Besides using Cycle Analyst or cutting/notching the shunts, is there a way to have control of my max amp draw with a pot? I need to limit my 35A controller to 20A max.

 

[Drunkskunk]

depending on the controller, yes. on a Clyte V1, it was easy to hack, and run a pot in line with the resistor feeding the main chip.
On others, it might not be that pure or simple, but certianly doable.

 

[1000watt]

I have this controller that came with my Goldenmotor kit. It has a rating of [36-60V 22A-35A max].

 

[1000watt]

anyone...

 

[Russell]

I have this controller that came with my Goldenmotor kit. It has a rating of [36-60V 22A-35A max].

What does that spec even mean? The controller should be set to some fixed max current like 22A or 28A or 35A but it won't have a range, at least none that I have do. Have you checked what the actual maximum current is?

We discussed the shunt mod on another thread and it really is a simple (and reversable) procedure so I'd still recommend that.

-R

 

[DCB-BLDC]

.

 

[1000watt]

Thanks for the replys. I ended up triming the shunt. Before I cut the shunt my controller would pull 35A, now It pulls about 25A Max when I hit a hill. (i need to trim more) My problem is, I am running a 48v 10ah Lifepo4 with my 1000w 48v Golden motor. My batt is not designed for anymore than 20A Continuous Discharge.

Here are the specs on my battery:
* Max Continuous Discharging Current: 20Amps
* Max Discharging Current (Peak): 30 Amps 12s

My controller:
[36-60V 22A-35A max]

 

[1000watt]

I wonder what the max amps would be if I cut one of the two shunts all the way through? would it be half of 35A ?

 

[icecube57]

Your controller would become a nice paper weight.

 

[Russell]

I wonder what the max amps would be if I cut one of the two shunts all the way through? would it be half of 35A ?

The only way to know is to try it. As I related to you on another thread I have two identical 22A E-BikeKit/Infineon controllers only the first one they cut out one of the shunts completely then added solder to the one remaining to "tune" it to the desired current however on the second unit they left both shunts in place and adjusted the current by making cuts in them. When I removed the solder from the first unit it became a 15A controller, when I added a bunch back it allowed 24.5A.

If you are shy about messing with the shunts then buy a new smaller controller. I got a 21A 9-FET (advertised as 14A, marked 22A, 21A actual peak) from ecitypower on eBay for less than $45 delivered which works sensored and sensorless plus has cruise.

-R

 

[TMaster]

I have the same 15 fet controller with 2 shunts. I am wondering what the max amps it draw is also. I soppose it partly depends on the battery voltage, unless it is a fixed output no matter what. I was reading, and someone said that our controller was 22 amps, but it would surge up to 30 if it needed to then back down to 22. I've been looking at all kinds of controllers on here and I did find a 15 mosfet controller almost exactly like ours it actually has 3 shunts in it and the specs were 33 Amps confined current rating. It also had 100V capacitors standard. I'm guessing but I think each shunt equals 11 amps. So if you cut one then you'll have 48 * 11 = 528W. So after all this I think the controller we have is a scaled down version of this one:

MrKang's scooter controller pics:
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh184/mrefex/MrKang%20E-Scooter/IMG_3998.jpg
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh184/mrefex/MrKang%20E-Scooter/Zi6_4009.jpg
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh184/mrefex/MrKang%20E-Scooter/IMG_0004.jpg

So maybe adding a shunt and changing the capacitors would give us a true 33 amps.. woo... 1584W

I should have my setup together in 2 or 3 weeks and will know what the amp draw is. I ordered a meter analyzer to mount on the handle bars.

 

[Affliction]

Your controller would become a nice paper weight.

I agree!
What a dumb thing to do! Why didn't you just get a lower power controller to begin with? It would have been cheaper!
Just use it as is and don't frock with it
Just go easy on your throttle use and you'll be fine. They do make better batteries you know!

 

[Russell]

Two identical controllers, two different ways to get 22A.

I'm assuming these controllers were about 25A originally but the seller wanted them to be 22A peak. On the first unit the manufacturer cut out one of the shunts then added solder to raise the current back up to 22A. When I removed the solder blobs it became a 15A controller. I recently added more solder and raised the maximum current to 24.5A.

View attachment 1

On the second contoller both shunts were left intact with little cuts used to tune it to 22A.




-R