Lipo Starter Kit

[wesnewell]

12s is best made up with 4s 5Ah handcase packs. About $25 each from HK. The hard case solves many packaging problems, and at $25 a brick there disposable. It's half the price of a 6s brick, for 66% of the capacity. It's win after win.

I've been using those 4s hardcase packs for a couple of years, yet I rarely recommend them to noobs. Definitely the most cost effective, but by no means will they suit many people.

A suitable bms is $25 and a 300w charger about $40
http://ecity.en.alibaba.com/product/800537641-50419686/ecitypower_smart_bms_5_13_Cells_in_Series_for_e_bike.html
http://ecity.en.alibaba.com/product/1164311008-218652593/ecitypower_high_quality_electric_motor_electric_boat_cycles_battery_charger.html

No specs and a minimum quantity 50 order puts their price together at $3400.00 plus shipping. Yeah, now that's a deal if I ever saw one. BTW, that's a 240W charger, not 300W

BMSbattery have just the same for the same money. It's typical pricing. LiPo bms units are a bit thin on the ground though. Dnmun gets good prices from Bestek, but they don't publish there prices, and in fact quote me around $40 not $25 So it was $62 by the time it was in my hand. If ecity post at similar rates then you might have it all for $100

I think you need to check BMSbattery 's shipping cost. It's almost always more than the price of the item you're buying. Funny you recommend bmsbattery considering your sigline "bmsbattery sent me broken and incorrect stuff, and won't even talk to me about it".

I just looked at the hyperion and can't see the attraction. It was $140 before postage(inc $9 temp sensor not provided). It is a twin 7s design so you won't be simply plugging in. It does not appear to plug in the wall, it needs a separate power supply that won't be cheap. You will need stuff on the bike for any sort of protection while in use. It's a long way from a charger you just plug in and switch on. I would say its simply the wrong kit. If you spend that much on the right kit it will be loads tidier and offer better protection with faster charge rates.

Wow, I guess that's because you don't have a clue wtf you're talking about. Well, maybe a clue, but that's it. FYI, you can have a single plug charge port for up to a 14s lipo pack using the Hyperion 1420i, but like a bms, you have to wire it up. But it's not complicated. you can do the same with any rc charger up to it's cell limit.

The other charger here is the $150 unreliable one that will take a pair of 6s but that means cells cost $25 more each time, so $175 for now and climbing. Plus P&P and to top it off it is just like the other one here, It is just control gear and requires an expensive psu or car battery. It's needlessly messy and less effective yet costs more money.

What other $150 charger? Never mind, I really don't care. FWIW, The power supply I've been using with my Hyperion 1420i is 24V 600W and cost me ~$20 shipped. Been using it over 2 years.

We are not playing around with radio controlled models. We don't have to charge off the car with one charger that suits many different things we carry. We don't need balance boards to to split longer packs in to shorter more manageable parallel pieces. We have a fixed size pack that is charged from the wall. We only need to plug in and wait.

You got a mouse in your pocket?

An over complicated battery pack is not my idea of entertainment. I think people that like a ridiculous amount of interaction with there batteries should buy a cycleanalist. That is real food for thought.

Mine either. And a lipo battery pack with a bms is over complicated.

I have serious doubts about hearing a cellog alarm when the wind is wizzing past your head. I imagine it is a total waste of time. I can't hear a thing at 20mph. I can't think of a single reason to take the risk. I have heard the arguments and openly calculated the lot. All oem's use a bms because you have too. If you have a load of radio control stuff laying about then yes it can work, but you wouldn't go specifically to buy the stuff. That is a different hobby with different needs. I myself have a b6 incase my proper kit is out of action, but only because it is so cheap and I may actually want to charge from 12v some time. I would never put the wrong kit first.

Yep, cellog's are just another waste of money for the paranoid, just like BMS's are for rc lipo when all you need riding is a simple voltmeter.

 

[chas58]

I've been using those 4s hardcase packs for a couple of years, yet I rarely recommend them to noobs. Definitely the most cost effective, but by no means will they suit many people...

Wesnewell

I’m not sure I understand.
1) What is the difficulty of using the 4s hard pack? The complexity of assembly and charging?
2) What kind of charger and power supply would you recommend for a lipo starter kit?
3) I agree with BMS battery – shipping is usually more than the cost of the item, and they certainly do not seem to have good customer service.
4) How do you ensure you don’t run the charge too low on Lipo? Do you stick a voltmeter on your handlebars? Use a Cycle Analyist?

 

[wesnewell]

1. A 12s Lipo pack made of 4S packs has 3 balance plugs. 12s-14s chargers only have 2 balance ports, so you have to make adapter cables to turn the 3 4s plugs into 2 6s. Kind of a pita, and something most noobs won't know how to do even with instructions and photos like this.

Of course if you know what you're doing you could wire up a single m/f plug between the charger and pack an have a single plug charge port.
2. For a 12s pack, the Thunder 1220 and 350W PSU of your choice.
3.na
4. Simple effective and cheap. And setting LVC to proper voltage as a backup.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-Digital-Voltmeter-DC-15V-To-120V-Red-Led-Voltage-Digital-Panel-Meter-/170846310527

 

[chas58]

Thanks.

So, you keep an eye on the voltage to make sure you don't go too low?
And the LCV is set at the controller end?

 

[migueralliart]

Thanks.

So, you keep an eye on the voltage to make sure you don't go too low?
And the LCV is set at the controller end?

There's 2 things to look for;
Cell level LVC
Total Pack LVC

If you use that balance charger and check your voltages on a cell level after charging and before a ride then there is no need for those little cell level alarms because your pack should be balanced and all cells will behave similar.

Therefore setting your LVC at a pack level will work and then you don't have to deal with accidentally leaving those alarms plugged in and etc.


Another thing. Do not set your LVC too low because then you run into a potentially unbalanced pack due to excessive discharge. Always err on the conservative side.

Also those packs are in back order. They are the best for commuters that only need to ride a short distance. On a small geared like a Q100 you'll get great range with that pack.

 

[wesnewell]

Thanks.

So, you keep an eye on the voltage to make sure you don't go too low?
And the LCV is set at the controller end?

I glance at the voltage once in a while. It's not like it goes down in just a few minutes. I can ride as many as 8 hours on a single charge or as few as 1 hour at higher speeds. The vm is just for a fuel gauge. I have my controllers LVC set to cut off at 10% soc, but I have only run it that low once to test it.