Looking for a FRONT Torque Arm "C" shape

[Recumbent Bicycle Source]

I bought a front kit DD motor and I'm looking for a Torque Arm that I can fit over the axle without taking the connectors off.

I've seen the DR BASS torque arms, but it looks like they only are made for the rear of the bike.

Please reference where I might get something for the front if it exists?

I also need a JST5 pin extension cable about 1' long because the controller to motor cable is too short.

I didn't see anything on Luna Cycles or Grin... but maybe I missed them.

Thanks

PS: Yes I know I can mount one on the the other side, but I have a POS fork and don't have the budget to buy a new one and in order to safely use REGEN I'm going to need one on both sides.

 

[Chalo]

Open end wrenches have been used for this purpose. To get them snug enough to withstand reversing torque without loosening the nuts, I think you'd need to start with a wrench that was almost wide enough and carefully modify it to fit exactly. For an axle 10mm across flats, that would be a 3/8" wrench (9.5mm).

To be honest, I don't think it's a good idea. I doubt an open slot can immobilize an axle enough to prevent loosening under regen. But you can start without regen and assess for yourself whether it's secure enough for you.

 

[boytitan]

Put the tourque arm on the other side. You should only need 1. I am running a 1000 watt front motor just fine with 1 torque arm.

Depending on your drop outs if the drop outs thin forget about running a hub motor on them.

 

[Recumbent Bicycle Source]

Put the torque arm on the other side. You should only need 1. I am running a 1000 watt front motor just fine with 1 torque arm.

Depending on your drop outs if the drop outs thin forget about running a hub motor on them.

Not really concerned about what I "need" and what "should" work, as much as creating a buffer of safety so I NEVER have to worry about it. I'm also concerned about forces applied to the dropouts in an unequal manner when applying regenerative braking.

So basically I'm just trying to find out what options might be available.

I can't judge how strong a fork is by looking at it... but I like to think I can...

 

[dogman dan]

You'll just have to remove the plug housings to get a torque arm on one side. Or rewire the motor to a plug that can fit through the TA hole.

 

[amberwolf]

I doubt an open slot can immobilize an axle enough to prevent loosening under regen. But you can start without regen and assess for yourself whether it's secure enough for you.

Works fine on CrazyBike2, despite it's weight and the torque of regen and acceleration.

Using two open-end (10mm IIRC) wrenches hoseclamped to the fork (as a "temporary" solution that has lasted for years so far).

FWIW, the only time I ever modified a wrench (3/8" filed up to fit the axle) was the only time I ever broke one. I suspect I left a stress riser / sharp corner and didn't file it round enough at the inner corner, but either way....


But I can't think of any other open-ended "torque arm" besides DocBass's Ultimate ones that would be as effective, unless one simply "thickens up" the actual dropouts with new metal (or replaces them with thicker metal, at least 5mm and more like 10mm if it's soft steel), and preferably make them deeper too. That's a lot of work, though, and for best performance would require welding to the fork. I've done that, on the rear dropouts of CB2, and on the SB Cruiser; so thick they don't need clamps to hold the axle tight.


Personally, I'd MUCH rather use closed-ended arms, as they are a lot stronger, and just do whatever is needed to the wiring/connectors to ensure that happens, if I were setting up a normal kit on a normal bike. (My bikes are not normal)