Looking inside a Boosted Board
- Thread starter agraham
- Start date
chickentail
100 µW
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2015
- Messages
- 7
What I always wonderend since i first saw the belt cover of the boosted board - Is it really neccesary that the belt case overlaps the wheel? I mean is there something under it that needs the space? Or is it just a protection to avoid that someone just puts bigger wheels on it? Could the cover be grinded off alittle bit to enable bigger wheels on the boosted board?
erwincoumans
100 W
- Joined
- Apr 2, 2015
- Messages
- 141
The hall sensors are in the belt cover, they occupy space, see http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1033595#p1033595
agraham
10 W
okp said:
If the Evolve has a two-conductor plug (built in balancing BMS) and not some kind of balancing charger then the Satiator would surely work for you. It can be set to output 24V-60V and has algorithms for all the battery chemistries (you could even use it to charge car batteries).
hillzofvalp
100 kW
could you please take more close ups of the controller? I'm really curious which MOSFETs they are using (the 24 little black rectangles). Thanks
edit: also, which charger part number are they using.. I think its a 80-120W meanwell
edit: also, which charger part number are they using.. I think its a 80-120W meanwell
agraham
10 W
hillzofvalp said:
It was made specially for Boosted by Mean Well. The part number starts with "BB" for "Boosted Boards" and it is not documented anywhere.
I'm not sure if the CCCV charging regime is handled by the charger or the on-board bms. I can't get my multimeter leads in when it's connected so I'm not sure what's going on.
When I use the Satiator I never seem to be able to charge past 41.5V - the the bms seems to cut the connection - but then the remote claims that it's fully charged - can't say for sure tho since "all five lights" might not mean 100%.
I will know more when Grin releases the new Satiator firmware that doesn't go to short-circuit-protection mode all the time - perhaps it will do a full CCCV cycle then.
hillzofvalp
100 kW
Interesting.
hi there,
I would need a bit of support
- how is the battery box attached to the deck ? I see some holes but a closer photo would be great ?
- are the battery discharge wires soldered on each side of the deck ? would it be possible to have a closer look at the bottom discharge wire connection that goes into the deck holes?
- do you think they have dig some tracks on the top of the deck to ensure the wiring is not too bulky or visible on the top side of the deck (under the grip) ? wondering of this affects the deck
thanks!
I would need a bit of support
- how is the battery box attached to the deck ? I see some holes but a closer photo would be great ?
- are the battery discharge wires soldered on each side of the deck ? would it be possible to have a closer look at the bottom discharge wire connection that goes into the deck holes?
- do you think they have dig some tracks on the top of the deck to ensure the wiring is not too bulky or visible on the top side of the deck (under the grip) ? wondering of this affects the deck
thanks!
sl33py
10 kW
okp said:hi there,
I would need a bit of support
- how is the battery box attached to the deck ? I see some holes but a closer photo would be great ?
- are the battery discharge wires soldered on each side of the deck ? would it be possible to have a closer look at the bottom discharge wire connection that goes into the deck holes?
- do you think they have dig some tracks on the top of the deck to ensure the wiring is not too bulky or visible on the top side of the deck (under the grip) ? wondering of this affects the deck
thanks!
OKP - If nobody else posts up i'll see if i can get you some closeups. My buddy has a boosted board and I'm sure he'd let me tinker with it a bit and take some pics. At least the superficial ones. Don't think we will dig up the grip tape to look at the wires front to back. I'm guessing they are routered out (channel) for a decent heavy gauge wire to the ESC/Motors.
skdoo
10 mW
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2013
- Messages
- 22
Battery is attached with six security Torx screws that are loctited into threaded metal inserts.
Battery wires are soldered to the battery and soldered to the ESC on either side of the deck.
No tracks for the wiring. Flat and wide for current capacity while maintaining a low profile, all without compromising the deck integrity.
Battery wires are soldered to the battery and soldered to the ESC on either side of the deck.
No tracks for the wiring. Flat and wide for current capacity while maintaining a low profile, all without compromising the deck integrity.
hey skdoo ! thanks a lot for the feedback. I wish I could test a boosted board in Paris.
no tracks for wiring ? impressive; I noticed on the photos I found on Internet that I can notice the wires below the grip - they are straight aligned (maybe fixed with tape to ensure they don't move); but just wondering which kind of wire is used ? The AWG 12 for example is rounded and not flat (as I know!)
no tracks for wiring ? impressive; I noticed on the photos I found on Internet that I can notice the wires below the grip - they are straight aligned (maybe fixed with tape to ensure they don't move); but just wondering which kind of wire is used ? The AWG 12 for example is rounded and not flat (as I know!)
Hummina Shadeeba
10 MW
How does this board stay quiet when braking? I read that sensors don't help and only having a sine wave esc and a motor that's designed to take/produce sine waves will get silence similar to electric bikes. The esc isn't sine right?
Hummina Shadeeba
10 MW
The braking is quiet. They're all over where I live and they definitely don't screech like my board
Can someone help me out here ...
Why can't i just replace the battery pack ... its a 10S pack if i put together a pack that has the same Voltage out put as the stock pack, I would simple need to figure out a way to wire in a method to plug and unplug the pack ?
is there something I do not understand that would prevent this... my thinking is if they battery fails you can replace it what if I simple make it easy to replace. i can fairly easily make a custom cover that I can remove easily and quickly... in all honesty just thinking about it could build the batteries into the cover and simple to drop in a new pack when needed .. three or four packs i could ride for good amount of time ?
can someone help me out here why can't i make my own battery to replace the stock one with the same batteries boosted uses. it would be really simple to make a pack what is strong and water tight.
Why can't i just replace the battery pack ... its a 10S pack if i put together a pack that has the same Voltage out put as the stock pack, I would simple need to figure out a way to wire in a method to plug and unplug the pack ?
is there something I do not understand that would prevent this... my thinking is if they battery fails you can replace it what if I simple make it easy to replace. i can fairly easily make a custom cover that I can remove easily and quickly... in all honesty just thinking about it could build the batteries into the cover and simple to drop in a new pack when needed .. three or four packs i could ride for good amount of time ?
can someone help me out here why can't i make my own battery to replace the stock one with the same batteries boosted uses. it would be really simple to make a pack what is strong and water tight.
agraham
10 W
I'll just repeat what I said in my pm...
You can totally do that.
The cells are A123 ANR26650M1-B cells.
http://www.a123systems.com/lithium-ion- ... l-cell.htm
You can find them for sale right here on endless-sphere.
The problem you are going to have is that the circuitry that manages the charge and discharge of the cells (the BMS) is embedded in the battery box.
Along with the power wire running over the top of the board is the serial wire that communicates with the motor controller at the back.
To make a replacement battery box you will need to somehow swap the batteries without swapping the BMS, so you will need to cut open the box and make some kind of swappable thing to go inside it with a connector for each and every battery cell.
Doable as long as the bms is happy with having discharged cells suddenly swapped for charged ones.
If you pull this off def post about it!
You can totally do that.
The cells are A123 ANR26650M1-B cells.
http://www.a123systems.com/lithium-ion- ... l-cell.htm
You can find them for sale right here on endless-sphere.
The problem you are going to have is that the circuitry that manages the charge and discharge of the cells (the BMS) is embedded in the battery box.
Along with the power wire running over the top of the board is the serial wire that communicates with the motor controller at the back.
To make a replacement battery box you will need to somehow swap the batteries without swapping the BMS, so you will need to cut open the box and make some kind of swappable thing to go inside it with a connector for each and every battery cell.
Doable as long as the bms is happy with having discharged cells suddenly swapped for charged ones.
If you pull this off def post about it!
i did a motor kv test on the boosted motor, it showed 190kv by my calculations it means that the speed limitations are lot software but hardware.
I don't see you increasing the top speed of the boosted board unless by bigger wheels, replacing motor to a higher kv, or changing the gear ratio, all of these will reduce the performance ie torque of the setup.
The ESC is limited to 45v 30a so there is no option to increase the voltage at all. But then again having the motor not drawing more then 30a is awesome as it keeps the motors cool, but because of the 1:3.5 gear ratio compared a 2.5 or 3 ratio used in other diy builds it makes up for the small motors they use (4125 stator compared to 5130 stator in rpec or sk3 motors)
[youtube]uxYJ4DelgoE[/youtube]
I don't see you increasing the top speed of the boosted board unless by bigger wheels, replacing motor to a higher kv, or changing the gear ratio, all of these will reduce the performance ie torque of the setup.
The ESC is limited to 45v 30a so there is no option to increase the voltage at all. But then again having the motor not drawing more then 30a is awesome as it keeps the motors cool, but because of the 1:3.5 gear ratio compared a 2.5 or 3 ratio used in other diy builds it makes up for the small motors they use (4125 stator compared to 5130 stator in rpec or sk3 motors)
[youtube]uxYJ4DelgoE[/youtube]
Pedrodemio
100 W
Great video, i would love to get my hands on a pair of this motors, lightweight and more than sufficient for most of the situations
Due the small mass i think with long hill the power may be limited to avoid overheating, any experience on that?
Due the small mass i think with long hill the power may be limited to avoid overheating, any experience on that?
torqueboards
1 MW
Great breakdown. Thanks for sharing!
Pedrodemio
100 W
Its somewhere in a spreadsheet in the video, 14/50 , i'm still trying to figure out how they avoid belt slip, since its only 5 teeth in mesh, maybe the motor mounts are sturdier than mine
jacobbloy, whats the shaft diameter of the motors? with 14 teeth pulley i expect a maximum of 5mm
jacobbloy, whats the shaft diameter of the motors? with 14 teeth pulley i expect a maximum of 5mm