Makita 18V Powered e-Bike Conversion Kit

First post at ES, so forgive errors, pls. Wanted to say I really like this idea, and it's similar to my latest bike build: MXUS rear geared hub, two 24v 4a tool batteries (Kobalt) wired in series, Infineon controller with switch for three power levels, a thumb throttle, plus an on switch and cruise button. No display, no brake cut-off switch, no PAS. Good acceleration, easily goes 20+mph (700c rims), and twenty miles distance with mild-moderate pedaling, plenty of power for hills, etc. It's only 200 watts of power but gives two or three hours of riding if I help, which is the whole point, anyway, for me. I carry the batteries in a bag on a front rack. I'm not a strong rider, but battery plus motor weight is low enough that if I run out of power I can keep riding.
 
First post at ES, so forgive errors, pls. Wanted to say I really like this idea, and it's similar to my latest bike build: MXUS rear geared hub, two 24v 4a tool batteries (Kobalt) wired in series, Infineon controller with switch for three power levels, a thumb throttle, plus an on switch and cruise button. No display, no brake cut-off switch, no PAS. Good acceleration, easily goes 20+mph (700c rims), and twenty miles distance with mild-moderate pedaling, plenty of power for hills, etc. It's only 200 watts of power but gives two or three hours of riding if I help, which is the whole point, anyway, for me. I carry the batteries in a bag on a front rack. I'm not a strong rider, but battery plus motor weight is low enough that if I run out of power I can keep riding.
Great.
Here are the Bldc motors comparing.
Left is Made in China. Right side is Made in Taiwan.

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Those machine wound coils sure look nice.
It depeds on the battery which being applied.
If for Makita 18V battery. Our controller can support. The only one kit in the world so far. But this week one guy in Taiwan already applied Makita 18vx2=36V. He said powered up over 40%. As photo by his hand made.
If you use 36v or 48v battery. And got the controller from Taobao. Our electric motor also being supported.
By the way. Not only we make the hub motor in Taiwan. Also the material inside are made in Taiwan. Like magnetic,copper wire,pcba(hall sensor)...etc.
406/451 20inch,24inch,26inch,700c,27.5 we provide wheel-built service.
LOL Do not forget Taiwan got the bicycle supply chain.
High-end Trek and Specialized bike are all made in taiwan.

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Watched video and took notes. Recommend you find a person who can ride bike, speak English and hold camera with third hand. English is the language that most on this forum speak and listen.

18V = 23 MPH or KPH? on flat road.

36V = 30 MPH or KPH? on flat road. Rider seems nervous? scared? excited? He says - "YA YAHONA YAWO"

36V plus 6° uphill = 14 MPH or KPH?

36V plus 12° uphill. No go? Rider pedals in low gear.

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First number. Is that MPH or KPH?
Second number. Looks like duration of test.
What is third number?

Watch out for cars. Be safe. Keep testing till the motor smokes.
 
I just did a similar build for a friends Specialized soft-tail, but I used a BBS01 and 3D printed a mount to take 4x Dewalt 18v batteries, all fits on a bolt on rear cargo rack the same as the OP's setup, works perfect, can run on 2 or 4 x 5amp, 8amp or 12amp, I also did another one last year using those 36v Ryobi batteries, that could take 1 to 4 of them.

Great thing about using tool batteries, is you can also use them for your tools! and with Dewalt, they do a 4x charger, so you can charge all 4 batteries at the same time, so ready to go in about an hour from flat
 
Marty I like your idea and would buy for myself but most people are not like us. They se a battery specification and say. I want 36v10ah. Then when time goes on that changes with the market.

Now 10 years later they want 500wh or even 800wh. The first thing they do however is reading the original size and quotes for the same new one. The customers reads the number not knowing too much behind the reason for the numbers. The same with chargers.

US and EU want different products than ASEAN countries.

What about other connectors than Makita? Are other things in development as your choice of Makita may be something else for me. I like Ryobi.
 
Marty I like your idea and would buy for myself but most people are not like us. They se a battery specification and say. I want 36v10ah. Then when time goes on that changes with the market.

Now 10 years later they want 500wh or even 800wh. The first thing they do however is reading the original size and quotes for the same new one. The customers reads the number not knowing too much behind the reason for the numbers. The same with chargers.

US and EU want different products than ASEAN countries.

What about other connectors than Makita? Are other things in development as your choice of Makita may be something else for me. I like Ryobi.
I'd recommend only the 36v Ryobi batteries as they are a slide, the 18v are a post type, and would make it impossible to fit with this guys setup, but I have experience with the Ryobi batteries, and they are complete rubbish in comparison to brands like Makita, DeWalt, Bosch (Blue) and similar, I have 6 x 36v, and only 2 of them still function properly, all are less than 3yrs old.

Every 18v Ryobi battery I have has died prematurely, along with the tools, every DeWalt and Bosch Blue batteries I have, have kept going longer than I have expected, in fact, none have died, I have some that are over 6yrs old and still work perfectly, same for the tools.

If you look on Aliexpress, you can buy a holder for most popular battery mounts, even Ryobi, the one used in this kit, looks like one of these low cost holders, you could either make your own kit, or buy this kit and swap out the battery holder for one of your choice, it also would be easy for the seller to supply the kit with a choice of multiple brand options, but I assume he is selling low volume and has pre purchased a quantity of the Makita mounts and most likely wants to sell those first.

I like the concept of this kit, being an easy install option, but it should be by default, 36v, so you should be running 2 x tool batteries in series or a single 36v battery, and I would also design and 3D print an enclosure for the controller and the batteries to make it a little more appealing, my setups hide the batteries inside an enclosure mounted on a rear cargo carrier.

Also if you look at some brands and the capacities you can find a sweet spot, in my location, a 12ah DeWalt battery is best value for a quality battery:

5ah = $100 AUD
8ah = $200 AUD
12ah = $220 AUD <- This makes a lot of sense

Yes a no name Chinesium eBike battery works out to be cheaper, but they cant be used to run your drill, torch lawn mower etc...

Also a quality tool battery is extremely safe, more rugged, has a built in BMS with temp sensors and have passed all sorts of safety regulations to even be sold to consumers, and can be purchased from any hardware store, so much easier to get replacements, I'm a big advocate for using tool batteries in these kinds of projects and are often overlooked.

I feel quite safe recharging these quality tool batteries in my house, I cant say the same thing about "insert weird name here" ebike batteries.

DeWalt are a good choice as they have 18v/54v switchable batteries, with 2 of these batteries, you can have a choice of the following if using the 15ah version:

18v 30ah when in parallel (when using the 18v mode)
36v 15ah in series (when using the 18v mode)
54v 10ah in parallel (when using the 54v mode)
 
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Also, this is often over looked, but you can also make a pack of these batteries that fit in a backpack and use an XT60 or 90 connector to the bike if you want even further range, 2/4/6/8 of these packs will easily fit in a backpack and could be used in conjunction with the bike mounted packs, like a range and power extender, some of us, will have a stack of these batteries, I know I do, every tool I have, no matter the brand, gets a DeWalt mount bolted to it, so I only have to buy one battery brand and I can use any brand tool regardless.

I just urge the OP to change the system to 36v, turn the battery mounts sideways and have 2 x 18v packs in series, 36v is the minimum you will need to move an adult to 25kph reliably.
 
Also, this is often over looked, but you can also make a pack of these batteries that fit in a backpack and use an XT60 or 90 connector to the bike if you want even further range, 2/4/6/8 of these packs will easily fit in a backpack and could be used in conjunction with the bike mounted packs, like a range and power extender, some of us, will have a stack of these batteries, I know I do, every tool I have, no matter the brand, gets a DeWalt mount bolted to it, so I only have to buy one battery brand and I can use any brand tool regardless.

I just urge the OP to change the system to 36v, turn the battery mounts sideways and have 2 x 18v packs in series, 36v is the minimum you will need to move an adult to 25kph reliably.
I like the 18v system as it doesn't exist anywhere else really.

The amount for a guy like you and me and Marty to just put a motor and a battery + adapter on a bike is pretty easy if you are decent and a basic DIYer.

Normally the biggest cost for bikes were I am is that it is stolen so the price really matters as well as portability or repairs like broken or lost battery. As the battery on charge can be stolen too with its charger. Things and costs add up.

The coolest ideas here what I think is the adaptor and the controller. The motor can be replaced and swapped out for an in-runner pushing the rear wheel making the system one notch towards theft proof perfection. Not by its sum of parts but that of the costs. That would then be the smartest system for portability and invention I think as it just denies lose. Its to cheap or easily replaceable, it still provides assistance to the average Joe.

We are comparing a 200 dollar ebike system price versus a ready made ebike for 2000-3000 dollars
 
I like the 18v system as it doesn't exist anywhere else really.

The amount for a guy like you and me and Marty to just put a motor and a battery + adapter on a bike is pretty easy if you are decent and a basic DIYer.

Normally the biggest cost for bikes were I am is that it is stolen so the price really matters as well as portability or repairs like broken or lost battery. As the battery on charge can be stolen too with its charger. Things and costs add up.

The coolest ideas here what I think is the adaptor and the controller. The motor can be replaced and swapped out for an in-runner pushing the rear wheel making the system one notch towards theft proof perfection. Not by its sum of parts but that of the costs. That would then be the smartest system for portability and invention I think as it just denies lose. Its to cheap or easily replaceable, it still provides assistance to the average Joe.

We are comparing a 200 dollar ebike system price versus a ready made ebike for 2000-3000 dollars
Theft is something I don't even consider, not really an issue where I am, if they get past the cameras and my 2 Pitbulls, then I'm most likely dead, and they can have the bike, as I wont be needing it anymore :)

Jokes aside, if theft is an issue, then my backpack idea is the best option for you, when you dismount the bike just pull the XT60 connector and walk away with the most expensive part of the system, and tool batteries will be safe for you to charge indoors where you have some security, I don't recommend charging eBike batteries in or even near your home, but tool batteries are very safe in this regard, and yes a cheap friction direct to tyre motor is a good cheap option, not something that I would use, but definitely an option if theft is an issue, but I think the front wheel hub motor can be found pretty dam cheap too, and low quality controller is also cheap as potato chips too.
 
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