mon-goose to MON-STER

Hyena said:
Oh you mean this one ?
http://youtu.be/lJgb_ewqF_A?t=1m7s

I didn't actually crash in that one, just rode under a low branch and copped a face full of leaves but it ripped my camera off. It DID look like I stacked though :lol:
Haha yeah. I remembered it wrong. Your videos are so good man. Do us all a favor and get a go pro. I'm trying to convince myself to buy your black Timma moded frame... Maby then.
 
guys I am actually thinking that gopro (is great but) is not as good as the sony. Sony has video stabilzation and the clarity rocks. I don't want to steal the thread but we often talk about the best video set up with pend. From sound to position and usually the annoying shaking.

This video below was shot on Newb's sony and you have to admit the clarity, smoothness and sound have never been caught in ebiking that well.

[youtube]fSXIwlSMPNQ[/youtube]

ps im the fat guy in black with his blue undies showing. Sorry no man boob, but lots of beer gut. :lol:
 
Not sure his model but he said its been the same for 3 years. It's mounted on his battery box in front of the double crown forks. Ideal position as low is better to show terrain, and before I gave him a gopro with a chest mount and it was ugly with box in the centre of the screen. I still don't know why his motor is so loud and can't hear me speaking in front of him. I am guessing the mics are at the rear of the mounting.
 
Allex said:
What Sony is this?

this: HDR-AS15 w/ the newer AS30 housing

as said by others regarding the GP, youtube is not doing the quality of the image justice.

i have GP 3+ Blk (now for sale) and personally i believe the GP is a better camera in virtually every way,
exception being the "steady shot" feature which really makes a big difference. a while back i did some
side by side comparisons on a few road rides and the GP wins on color & image quality on smooth surfaces.
unfortunately, i never got around to taking the GP out for the same comparison in rough terrain but after
seeing the footage of this last ride i am convinced it doesn't compare to the sony in these conditions.

314582.jpeg
 
Yeah the image stabilization feature is something the gopro still lacks.
I've been looking at both options since losing my H3 black a few weeks ago but I'm still swayed towards the gopro if for no other reason than my large back catelog of mounts and accessories. I also like that the gopro can be sat down outside of its case without a mount of tripod, something the sony can't seem to do. Your model seems decent newb, especially since they can be had online now for $160 delivered.
That said there's a new model out now which is better and is tempting over the gopro, but it's priced quite close to the H3+
http://www.cnet.com/products/sony-action-cam-as100v/

How much are you chasing for the gopro ? I might be interested, and as Ken said I DO need to replace it!
 
John Bozi said:
guys I am actually thinking that gopro (is great but) is not as good as the sony. Sony has video stabilzation and the clarity rocks. I don't want to steal the thread but we often talk about the best video set up with pend. From sound to position and usually the annoying shaking.

This video below was shot on Newb's sony and you have to admit the clarity, smoothness and sound have never been caught in ebiking that well.


ps im the fat guy in black with his blue undies showing. Sorry no man boob, but lots of beer gut. :lol:

John, your fat beer gut don't compare to mine :mrgreen: Thats right, when I am not at work, and not on call, I am in training drinking beer, and riding. :twisted:
 
I'm in beer training too often.

I have been making Youtube videos for a very long time now and it is obvious that they destroy image quality.

I have had great videos make over a few hundred thousand views just suddenly get thrown into the wrong dimensions. Almost every high definition video loses half it's quality even when we hit the "HD" button on youtube. It's just what youtube does to make it more "streamable".

Remember this: The first gopro 3 black already had recording capabilities that 99% of play back devices would never be able to support. After recording even at 1080 my computer still cannot play the original footage back. Again playback hardware is no up to recording hardware. Once you put it on the net forget quality.

The video shot by Newb for example after I just snipped shorter took almost 10 hours to cut down (process) from more than 2 hours riding. Even after the first edit on my computer it was so realistic it felt like I was experiencing it again (I use the computer through a 42" screen) but once on youtube blown to fullscreen on 1080 hd it looks blunt and grey. The smoothness is still there without the rattle.
 
previous programing:
file.php


im inpregress of reprograming the controller to 115% speed because after recent reading I found that the "percentage" is a facade, and the real full speed as a normal unrestricted open gate FET is achieved by programing the controller with 115% speed.

i am under the impression (from ppl that have tested the controller output with a cro) that unless the highest percentage is used the pwm of the output will restrict the speed and or power in these controllers.

i have just done a freewheel spin up and am now seeing 76kph.

ill report further on real world speed. i was getting 60kph with a full charge (98v) and would be just under 60kph after some usage (92v)
lyen2.JPG
 
Ken, I see you are running your Phase to DC amp ratio about 2.25 to 1. For the sake of performance gain, why not increase to 2.5 to 1? To much twisting force on the axle at start? I don't have any experience with programing so I am going off what I think my understanding of programing is. If I missed, it, please educate I got a huge 24 4110 Mosfet controller coming in with a 5404. Because I want to run 16s at say 125ah, to get some decent top speed, I will need to run speed% at 115 to 120.

Rick
 
Good question Rix.

The controller would handle it but the poor old ht3525 would get hotter even quicker. Its pulling fairly hard as it is so I'm happy.
If Iwas running a h40xx iI would turn it up. The 2.2 ratio is a bit more efficient to obviously.

FYI Kepler ran 57/160 amps on his bomber with the same controller into a slow x5 motor.
 
Yah, motor and the phase wires would tend to get warmer. I understand keeping around 2.2 to 1. And if your happy with the performance, no need to fuq with it.

Rick
 
You hit 64 easy, but did It get there quicker as well? Drawing power at high speed, wind resistance is responsible for some of that, the other aspect is it takes more power to maintain more speed. I know you know this, just stating it from my point of view.

Rick
 
Rix said:
You hit 64 easy, but did It get there quicker as well? Drawing power at high speed, wind resistance is responsible for some of that, the other aspect is it takes more power to maintain more speed. I know you know this, just stating it from my point of view.

Rick
Yeah thanks. That would be a factor. Yes Igot there quicker. It seemed to be ppull in pretty hard through the 50s range , it didn't do that before. I got to 64 without tucking or pedaling. I used to have to tuck and pedal to get 60 or Maby just 61. I wasn't wearing a full face helmet or back pack so that would be a factor as I normally always have a backpack for tube and tools.
 
Well Ken, the next step is put on the gear, and see what her actual top speed will be. 70kph? Nice action in the leaves btw.
 
pendragon8000 said:
previous programing:
file.php


im inpregress of reprograming the controller to 115% speed because after recent reading I found that the "percentage" is a facade, and the real full speed as a normal unrestricted open gate FET is achieved by programing the controller with 115% speed.

i am under the impression (from ppl that have tested the controller output with a cro) that unless the highest percentage is used the pwm of the output will restrict the speed and or power in these controllers.

i have just done a freewheel spin up and am now seeing 76kph.

ill report further on real world speed. i was getting 60kph with a full charge (98v) and would be just under 60kph after some usage (92v)


For an HT3525, 66KPH is moving. Someday you will step up to a 4065 or 4080. BTW, I love my 4080 on the Fighter. Good for about 58KPH with the 18x1.4 MC rear wheel and tire, pulls hard too. Looking at your programing module, I noticed you got 115% set in speeds 1-4, I get that as this can be set up with different on the fly switch power modes, but explain to me about the Speed Limit%. Is that your default limit you want to base the 115% over for? And Converse Speed%, you have 35, whats that do? I asked because I ordered a program controller cable and with my Crystalyte 24 4110 Fet controller. As I said before, I want to run a lowish voltage set up, 16S at north of 100 DC amps, and to get some speed out of the 5404, I need to run it at 115-120% like you are doing. Might even contact Kepler and see if I could have him reprogram the controller since he has the set up for it, but figured I would try myself first. Also, when you changed your settings, did you have to change your Shunt value setting and doing any additional calibrating between the CA and controller?

Rick
 
You can do it if you PC reaches your ebike with the usb cord. I SRT all switch positions to the same because Ihhave no switch so it makes it easyer.
Converse speed is reverse. Some controllers have a plug for reverse switch.
In the program you can go very high with amps . its tempting when you see..
I guess if you increase a bit at a time and monitor heat everywhere it could be pushed up very high.
So Rix have you got your head around the thermistor yet?
NTC 10K connected to ca v3 allows user ptogramsble thermal roll back of main power limit. Its quite good in setups where motor gets hottest quickest (with a sensor in wwindings) nothing else will be hotter do limiting that will be insurance on the whole system.
productLarge_7643.jpg
 
pendragon8000 said:
You can do it if you PC reaches your ebike with the usb cord. I SRT all switch positions to the same because Ihhave no switch so it makes it easyer.
Converse speed is reverse. Some controllers have a plug for reverse switch.
In the program you can go very high with amps . its tempting when you see..
I guess if you increase a bit at a time and monitor heat everywhere it could be pushed up very high.
So Rix have you got your head around the thermistor yet?
NTC 10K connected to ca v3 allows user ptogramsble thermal roll back of main power limit. Its quite good in setups where motor gets hottest quickest (with a sensor in wwindings) nothing else will be hotter do limiting that will be insurance on the whole system.
productLarge_7643.jpg

Yah, I am apprised with how a thermistor works know, how to install it...now Funny though, the new 54xx along with the H40xx and TCxx all have thermo sensors installed from Crystalyte. And Crystalye will set them up for direct plug n ride with the CA V3 at request. The reason I know this is I have been working with the US Crystalyte importer on getting 54xx. If this works, I will be Mike and Dave's 54xx distributor here in the US. Got a trial order going on with a few 5404s right now for some few guys, to see if Kenny actually plays ball with us. According to the US Crystalyte importer known to me only as "Mike" we don't need to order 50 54xx motors to get Crystalyte to build them because he orders around 700 units from them a few times a year and with that volume coming from Crysalytes other offerings he gets by the connex box load via sea freight, they wave the minimums for him. That being said, if this goes through, I will only import 5404s to keep things simple. I got more bang for the voltage amperage buck with a 5404 over the 5405, and the 5403s off limits as that is exclusively Stealth's motor. Anyway I am patiently awaiting to see if this works out.

Rick
 
cool vid - I liked the bit at the end where all the leaves were jammed up the wheel - good cammo for the hub lol

go the thermo - I think thats the one Im running - I would have killed my motor by now - i got mine rolling back from 110-120 - no venting stopping for a cigarette for 5 minutes gets back down to 90 degrees celcius. Its a real pain being limited by heat.... thinking of taking frozen cans of beer / push against the motor see if it helps, then drink them...

My bike on flat needs a real long run up and be hot off the charge to go over 70kmh, to be honest there is no where to do that speed safely, as no car expects a bicycle to go that fast, I've had cars think Im much slower and joggers and had to skid hard brake to avoid collisions.

Average speed now about 25kmh
 
Sounds good Rix. Slower motors are better IMO anyway, peak out put is at lower speed so more torque.
I don't know if you know or care but - I have my thermistor connected to black hall wire and other side has its own signal wire going to the cav3. The negative is common through out so you don't need to havea wire for tthat side.

Bozi I strongly suggest turning up the upper limit of your roll back, mine is 135°C but starts lower (90°c) so its slower slope but higher equilibrium. The hall sensors are the most sensitive thing and are rated from the factory to go to 150°c AFAIK. They are embedded in the stator. Not sure where the thermistor is put by crystalyte, mine is epoxied under a loop of copper winding so its very sensitive, theoretically allot more than the halls.
 
I used to have it start at 90, but when you are running only 40amps, it can really poop out your ride early.

ie. Youve got a hill you know you can take at full amps, but your already been limited. I upped it when I was on a ride with newb. Sat there at hill going should I wait or should I push the bike or should i up the kick in temperature. I just moved it up 110 and wala could hit the hill with full power and then let it cool on the flatter part.

Yeah I know 120 is lowish, but to err on the side of caution will most probably keep me out of extra problems.

Thing I noticed is that the motor cools faster at the higher temperatures than the lower temperatures. Further from ambient I guess.
 
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