mon-goose to MON-STER

I took the mongoose/monster to work today and slip streamed a truck for allot of the way there and back and used 25% of battery capacity so lets say 33% of actual useable capacity (10ah 24s pack). 14km round trip going 45-60km/h
it rides prety sweet, i let one of the butchers at work have a ride at lunch and he loved it, He said it made his day :)
well it made my day riding the monster to work, i had it parked in view while i was working in the morning so the drivers could froth over it, a few of them are into bikes and motors etc and they loved it, i got alot of compliments on how it turned out so that was nice.

On the down side it seems like a thirsty mofo like me ;) and uses about 1600+ watts to go 60kph so i need to decide on a normal usage limit for me so i get max efficiency for desired top speed.

something i have noticed is the motor is much more responsive when cool. most electrical hobbyists know wire's resistance is proportional to its heat.
 
Looking real nice there as yoy know. Main question i have is does it do power wheelies???
 
Falco said:
Looking real nice there as yoy know. Main question i have is does it do power wheelies???
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lol at 2kw it does lift the wheel if i lean back and throttle.

I still havn't put the second clamping torque arm on yet so im limiting it to 2kw with the cycle analyst v3.

I put a 24watt LED headlight on it tonight so i feel more safe in the morning when its a bit dark and its a good day time safety light to.
file.php

i have it mounted on a bracket coming out of the bottom of the steer tube. photos later bed for me now..
peace
 
[youtube]GruewRXOFpg[/youtube]
The voltage actually was down to 95v or something so that's why you font see 6000 , I think the toaster was about 5500.
But honestly I think 60amps is past the coil magnetic saturation as Justin puts it.
Anyway I had a nice egrin as a pulled out of a corner and up a hill and it felt like "WOW".
It almost caught me out with a wheelie back flip but I kept it under controlled.

I drag raced a petrol rc car
35cc I think, and I accelerated quicker but the car had a bit more top end
 
dude, excellent work!
Keep it up you're nailing it all the way getting it done.
Hopefully you have a few more different builds in the future as I'm keen to see what projects you undertake.
 
t3sla said:
dude, excellent work!
Keep it up you're nailing it all the way getting it done.
Hopefully you have a few more different builds in the future as I'm keen to see what projects you undertake.
Click to expand...
cheers. i was thinking today its soo bloody adictive to make more toys but yeah i'd beter give it a rest for a bit. i wouldnt mind experimenting with a big rc motor like aussie jester. but i have an old scooter i made from a sack truck and a bike and a whiper snipper and a gate hinge and mini tramp springs for rear suspension cos the welds were breaking as a hard tail. i was oleing/jumping at 60kph one day and snaped the drive shaft, that was the last time she was powered about 10 years ago. would be an ideal platform to play with an rc motor and esc and servo tester come throttle.

anway back on topic:

in the ghetto-IN THE GHETTOOO.JPG
torque arm+hose clamps.JPG
i got these clamping torque arms on there so I can run 6kw and use regen braking. i still have to place the reed switch on the lever with epoxy or something. It will be nice to have the rear brake pads last more than a week :|
 
pendragon8000 said:
t3sla said:
dude, excellent work!
Keep it up you're nailing it all the way getting it done.
Hopefully you have a few more different builds in the future as I'm keen to see what projects you undertake.
Click to expand...
cheers. i was thinking today its soo bloody adictive to make more toys but yeah i'd beter give it a rest for a bit. i wouldnt mind experimenting with a big rc motor like aussie jester. but i have an old scooter i made from a sack truck and a bike and a whiper snipper and a gate hinge and mini tramp springs for rear suspension cos the welds were breaking as a hard tail. i was oleing/jumping at 60kph one day and snaped the drive shaft, that was the last time she was powered about 10 years ago. would be an ideal platform to play with an rc motor and esc and servo tester come throttle.

anway back on topic:

View attachment 1

i got these clamping torque arms on there so I can run 6kw and use regen braking. i still have to place the reed switch on the lever with epoxy or something. It will be nice to have the rear brake pads last more than a week :|
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Not sure if i like your torque arms there. Think maybe you should dp420 them in place for extra strength. I broke my last ones when regen entered the picture. They were 5mm mild steel on both sides. Any movement al all will end in tears if left unchecked. Apart from that the bike is looking sweet. Came together really well i would say :D
 
Falco said:
Not sure if i like your torque arms there. Think maybe you should dp420 them in place for extra strength. I broke my last ones when regen entered the picture. They were 5mm mild steel on both sides. Any movement al all will end in tears if left unchecked. Apart from that the bike is looking sweet. Came together really well i would say :D
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thanks allot Falco. well they are both 1/2 inch steel with 5mm bolts clamping to the the axle flats so thats significantly beter than 5mm unclamped.
knowing what they are now would you say thats cool?
 
pendragon8000 said:
Falco said:
Not sure if i like your torque arms there. Think maybe you should dp420 them in place for extra strength. I broke my last ones when regen entered the picture. They were 5mm mild steel on both sides. Any movement al all will end in tears if left unchecked. Apart from that the bike is looking sweet. Came together really well i would say :D
Click to expand...
thanks allot Falco. well they are both 1/2 inch steel with 5mm bolts clamping to the the axle flats so thats significantly beter than 5mm unclamped.
knowing what they are now would you say thats cool?
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1/2 inch! you really cant tell that from the pictures!! maybe weld them in place to eliminate the hose clamps. Thats really the only point that could let you down. Your right though that they are better then 5mm unclamped!!
 
yeeow, quick on the draw! thanks.. i would weld them but the way they open i couldnt get the hub out.
EDIT:
BTW hose clamps are SH!T . i hadnt used them on torque arms untill today and OMG i "wasn't happy Jan" ... a nice piece of sheet with holes (used for builders etc) with some bolts is so much easyer to put on and seems stronger, the thread of the bolt in the hose clamp is pressing sideways against the clamping metal. where as my method of having a plate bent around the chainstay and bolted over the torque arm has the bolt pressing against the plate and would have to pull the nut through the plate rather than skip a thread on the hose clamp ring piece.
 
When i dp420 my DrBass torque arms in, my hub didnt quiet fit.. I was spewing to say the least! took some time with a file to get it exact but then there was no play at all. Motor only just gets in. Now no need to worry about them coming loose. Im using that bike everyday as sole transport. min 50km per day when i leave the house. As long as there is no play then your all set. I guess the tire tube with the hose clamps left me worrying. Looks like you have thought it out though 8)
 
pendragon8000 said:
I have found that i have a dud/low capacity cell. Any one have luck with hobby king getting there lipo replaced, and how to go about doing it? I have read that at least one person has done this. I think it was Sn0wchyld.
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yea mate just get on their chat system. they'll try and talk you into various other options, like 'check it on the charger again' or 'cycle it' - in my case though it was a low V cell on delivery, so a slightly different situation. just stick to your guns, stay polite but firm and you'll get a ticket to send back the batt, and get a refund of purchase price.
I have done this 2ice now, but I dont bother any more, though i would if I ever get a whole bunch of dud packs in one delivery. now I just keep the odd 1 or 2 and ill pull em apart eventually to make different packs/repair any others that fade early.
 
Had a few coopers sparkling and did the right thing....
[youtube]U00IUUbtuVE[/youtube]
Was fun but something happened to the freewheel cluster. Its sort of come off or broke. Justin said it may be the side plate, Architectonic had that happen on his geared Mac I believe.
Anyway. I'll investigate and report. Ride report repeat.
 
well i contacted justin from ebikes.ca and john from stealth. Justin replied first and so I ordered a side plate when i knew I could just order one. Thought I used my gf's credit card but it was just regular papal, "thanks dear". anyway hopefully i'll have the bike up and running next w/e :)
 
pendragon8000 said:
I have found that i have a dud/low capacity cell. Any one have luck with hobby king getting there lipo replaced, and how to go about doing it? I have read that at least one person has done this. I think it was Sn0wchyld.
Click to expand...

Use multiple technical terms to describe the failure reason, the quickly shut up when I showed them a picture internals.
Bad solder and a blob that flicker off from the taps onto the pouch :?

Be nice though, just specific and technical in deeming them the cause of the problem
 
Thx for the reply in my build topic :D

I'll reply here as this is ment for your build (that I like :p 6KW FTW! )

for the brake reedswitch:
I used 1 of these shiny very powerfull magnets in the brake lever (the lever is usually hollow so perfect fit) and I secured it with hot glue

I think the magnet was a neodymuim magnet (the stuff they use to make fake free energy on youtube :lol: )

I could keep the magnet 1cm away before the reedswitch switches so it's a perfect solution :wink:
 
3nslav3 said:
Thx for the reply in my build topic :D

I'll reply here as this is ment for your build (that I like :p 6KW FTW! )

for the brake reedswitch:
I used 1 of these shiny very powerfull magnets in the brake lever (the lever is usually hollow so perfect fit) and I secured it with hot glue

I think the magnet was a neodymuim magnet (the stuff they use to make fake free energy on youtube :lol: )

I could keep the magnet 1cm away before the reedswitch switches so it's a perfect solution :wink:
Click to expand...
thanks ill give it a go.
i might paint the hub as its a good opertunity. with replacing the side plate. im undecided of drilling / venting the geare side plate. at a minimum i will drill the shit out of side plate around the axle.
 
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