Motor shaft/pulley question.
- Thread starter kennet_h
- Start date
sl33py
10 kW
it's not ideal but should work with just a grub screw. You have one of those right? m3 or m4 typically. one or two or ?
The keyway is best, but you should be able to get by without it. It might not be a bad idea to use a bit of loctite on the shaft as well, but it will make swapping gears later a PITA (Heat is your friend in that scenario).
The keyway is best, but you should be able to get by without it. It might not be a bad idea to use a bit of loctite on the shaft as well, but it will make swapping gears later a PITA (Heat is your friend in that scenario).
You have 3 solutions :
1-you drill a keyway in your shaft, so you have easy interchangeable gears and it holds by itself, lock it with a tiny scrw
2-epoxy glue, you won't be able to swap gear without heating the whole glue but it should hold as long as the gear
3-you make a direct drive type out of the motor so no gear anymore. What KV is your motor?
1-you drill a keyway in your shaft, so you have easy interchangeable gears and it holds by itself, lock it with a tiny scrw
2-epoxy glue, you won't be able to swap gear without heating the whole glue but it should hold as long as the gear
3-you make a direct drive type out of the motor so no gear anymore. What KV is your motor?
Thank you for the answers.
I haven't bought anything more than the board.
But I have been looking at a couple of motors with shafts that are completely round, and was wondering if it was a problem.
Sounds to me, like getting a pulley with two screws, and glue, would be a simple, and safe, way to go?
I haven't bought anything more than the board.
But I have been looking at a couple of motors with shafts that are completely round, and was wondering if it was a problem.
Sounds to me, like getting a pulley with two screws, and glue, would be a simple, and safe, way to go?
If I may say something, since you only have bought the board you should give a serious thought about directly buying a hub motor setup from Pediglide (he sells 1WD and 2WD and more) since it will be a breeze for you. No belt, no pulley.
If you want a budget setup go 1WD hub wheel drive from Pediglide, buy an ESC of your choice, choose your batteries accordingly, get a BMS, a simple charger, an enclosure if you want everything stealth and you're ready to go for more kilometers than your wheels can take.
If you want a budget setup go 1WD hub wheel drive from Pediglide, buy an ESC of your choice, choose your batteries accordingly, get a BMS, a simple charger, an enclosure if you want everything stealth and you're ready to go for more kilometers than your wheels can take.
torqueboards
1 MW
Just put a flat spot. Use a dremmel or file. Usually, there's at least 2 spots on the hub of the motor pulley.
I've went up 20-25% inclines here in SF on one of my first boards with just (2) M3 Cap Head Bolts on my motor pulley 1000+ miles probably. I switch out the M3 set screws on the motor pulley so I can torque it down harder.
It's crucial you put a semi-flat spot because if you don't it will back out the bolt if it's sitting on a circular spot. Sometimes worse it will get stuck all crooked from the forces.
Technically, a keyway is a better option of course but not really needed.
You could run with just 2 cap head screws on the hub of the motor for thousands of miles.
I've went up 20-25% inclines here in SF on one of my first boards with just (2) M3 Cap Head Bolts on my motor pulley 1000+ miles probably. I switch out the M3 set screws on the motor pulley so I can torque it down harder.
It's crucial you put a semi-flat spot because if you don't it will back out the bolt if it's sitting on a circular spot. Sometimes worse it will get stuck all crooked from the forces.
Technically, a keyway is a better option of course but not really needed.
You could run with just 2 cap head screws on the hub of the motor for thousands of miles.
speedmd
10 MW
You could also use a taper lock if you can live with the larger diameter.
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